GGTS Clone/CCST/Chi Chi Show and Tell

[crxess]

Yep, I already have the 2 original AGA-T's from a coop.......one week before they changed design.
Looking over my expenses, I'm going to have to wait until next month. Have to keep the bills paid and wife happy.

 

[ethebull]

Yep, key thing is the threaded AGA T, I soldered the holes instead of threading them, and I didnt use washers I used insulator cups to space the pin.

I went with oversized o-ring chunks

Hummmm... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/cosmetic-mods/351536-de-knurled-polished-aga-t.html can probally make it look even better.

Yep, that will happen soon.

 

[zipflint]

Thanks heaps for the information, I understand now.
That is pretty dang awesome!

 

[juicewah]

Nice, this is the exact set up I'll have once I receive mine. Glad to know it works well

 

[juicewah]

Lol, woops meant to quote you.

Mine showed up today from Hoosiervapes. I also received the Igo-L from RTD Vapor along with kanthal and wick. I wrapped a .7 ohm coil (according to my VV Gripper), which was my first coil ever and gave it a try. Burnt, yuck, I think I wrapped too tight and choked the wick. Built another coil at 1.0 and it is working really, really well.

Here is a pic of my CCTS and Igo-L in 18350 mode, which is what I bought it for Much smaller than I thought it would be. I guess my only gripe is that the Igo-L isn't sitting flush.

.. and a picture next to a VV Gripper and a 10ml bottle for reference.

 

[Errol]

Just found this forum and am unable to find a problem similar to mine. The post with the spring that makes contact with the batter is grounded to the end cap. That is anytime I put a battery in it is firing without the button being pressed.

What I would like to know is how to get that pin and pin holder out of the brass cap without destroying something. So far I have put as much force trying to pull it apart while rotating the pin with a pair of pliers while holding the cap in my hand. Nothing is coming apart. Hoping someone here has been able to separate these two or three parts.

Errol

 

[BWhare]

The pin with the spring is supposed to be isolated from the body. If it's somehow actually contacting the base of the cap, it's a flaw. Can you send it back to the supplier?

 

[studiovap]

Just found this forum and am unable to find a problem similar to mine. The post with the spring that makes contact with the batter is grounded to the end cap. That is anytime I put a battery in it is firing without the button being pressed.

What I would like to know is how to get that pin and pin holder out of the brass cap without destroying something. So far I have put as much force trying to pull it apart while rotating the pin with a pair of pliers while holding the cap in my hand. Nothing is coming apart. Hoping someone here has been able to separate these two or three parts.

Errol

You have to drill the pin out to remove it.
I discovered this when I went to replace the pin with a higher grade solid brass one.
I used an insulator sleeve made from a ground down delrin drip tip section to isolate the new pin from the endcap.
But as has been stated its a manufacturing flaw and should be returned if possible.

 

[crxess]

If need be, you can get a replacement cap from Hoosier vapes, but currently out of stock. Wonder why

You can screw the cap into the short tube for better grip if you wish to try pulling the pin loose. It appears to be pressed into a silicone grommet fitted into a disc pressed into the cap. If tightened down to much it may have reached the cap itself and caused the short.

ETA - just tried to see if the ring with all the holes would detach from the Bottom cap. Using long needle nose pliers, it turns 4 full turns then sticks(stops) Either direction. Don't know if this piece is threaded or what, but it isn't really pressed in place.

Sorry, not going to trash mine to find out.

 

[Errol]

The pin with the spring is supposed to be isolated from the body. If it's somehow actually contacting the base of the cap, it's a flaw. Can you send it back to the supplier?

I bought the mod through a Coop.

You have to drill the pin out to remove it.
I discovered this when I went to replace the pin with a higher grade solid brass one.
I used an insulator sleeve made from a ground down delrin drip tip section to isolate the new pin from the endcap.
But as has been stated its a manufacturing flaw and should be returned if possible.

I may try drilling a hole in the center of the cap and use a punch to drive it out.

If need be, you can get a replacement cap from Hoosier vapes, but currently out of stock. Wonder why

You can screw the cap into the short tube for better grip if you wish to try pulling the pin loose. It appears to be pressed into a silicone grommet fitted into a disc pressed into the cap. If tightened down to much it may have reached the cap itself and caused the short.

ETA - just tried to see if the ring with all the holes would detach from the Bottom cap. Using long needle nose pliers, it turns 4 full turns then sticks(stops) Either direction. Don't know if this piece is threaded or what, but it isn't really pressed in place.

Sorry, not going to trash mine to find out.

I had tried to rotate the ring with the holes and couldn't get it to budge. I'll try a little more force as that appears to be the best way to get the grounding pin out. I'll rig something to protect the cap so I can put it in a vise to get some leverage.

If all else fails I just buy a new one. Thank you all for your rapid and helpful replies.

Errol

 

[c00lkatz]

That pin isn't going to come out. It's in there tight, from what I can remember it's actually attached to that bottom disk somehow (can't remember the specifics off-hand, but someone posted it a while back). What I did was cut off the post then drill out the remainder. I then pressed in a nylon bushing along with a brass rod. You'll get better performance this way anyway.

 

[bzmotoninja83]

I was under the impression that the center pin moved. I had a Vivi Nova on top, tube tight. Had a gap. Lossened body and tightened nova till flush. Pin moves but only slightly

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

 

[crxess]

I was under the impression that the center pin moved. I had a Vivi Nova on top, tube tight. Had a gap. Lossened body and tightened nova till flush. Pin moves but only slightly

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

We are talking about the center pin in the base cap. It is mounted in an isolator to the silver disc. Not sure how it is fitted, but it is stubborn.

 

[c00lkatz]

I was under the impression that the center pin moved. I had a Vivi Nova on top, tube tight. Had a gap. Lossened body and tightened nova till flush. Pin moves but only slightly

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

The top pin is pressed into a rubber grommet. It will move a little bit but it's not what I would call "adjustable." The pin we were talking about is the bottom ground pin/spring. The top pin I actually pressed out the old pin and grommet, then pressed in a nylon bushing. I then used a too small brass rod that I covered with 2 layers of heatshrink. Then I just inserted the rod. Now the top pin moves up and down as needed to adjust to the atomizer, and is removable for cleaning. Just screw in the atomizer until it bottoms out, then tighten up the mod.

I have an adjustable brass top post, a solid brass bottom post, and the only thing left now is the switch, which I have yet to figure out. It currently has a brass lamp screw with a fancy thumb knob held on with a steel nut and steel spring. It's very loose and wobbles like crazy. It's just a temp fix. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do yet, been too lazy lately. What I originally planned didn't work out too well, so gotta go back to the drawing board.

 

[Aizerson]

my firing pin broke.. is there any solutions to it..?

 

[crxess]

1) make your own
2) order replacement - hoosier vapes

 

[Cykaca]

No way am I shelling out $200+ for a stainless steel, aluminum, or brass tube with a 510 connection.

Maybe when I win the Lotto.

 

[Cykaca]

I was lucky I found all the pieces when my switch came apart.

 

[crxess]

No way am I shelling out $200+ for a stainless steel, aluminum, or brass tube with a 510 connection.

Maybe when I win the Lotto.

I was lucky I found all the pieces when my switch came apart.

Working on post count?
His switch is Broken. Switch pin metal is porous and not worth attempting repair. Must be replicated or replaced.

 

[ethebull]

Now de-knurled and polished