Give me some advice, oh knowledgable ones! Please...

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DSmooch

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I got mine from Kayfun Lite - InTaste. You can sign up to get notices on when they get restocked. Grand total with shipping was less than $100 (because we don't have to pay the VAT tax) and it arrived at my door 3 days after I ordered it. I know vaperev will have them soon as well, you can call or email them to find out about availability and price.

3 days here too... these guys at intaste are really efficient and they have the decency to exclude the VAT for non EU countries...
 

Spazmelda

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Hehe what to say without adding to the confusion.

Definitely a hands on thing. It's easy to overthink it before just jumping in. As long as you use your provari or vamo, you shouldn't really have any issues with shorts. Hotspots is mainly a SS mesh thing. Even there, you won't really know until you simply fire it up. Hotspots might snap your coil, but they won't damage your battery. Coil will simply snap and there's no longer an electrical circuit to worry about. Just try again.

Also, with your totally fly abilities :)2cool:) you should have no problems working on any of the Kanger heads. Just pick one apart and/or watch a tutorial and you'll see theres really not an enormous potential for getting it wrong. Even if you did, your VV mods don't fire them up if they're shorted.

I'm no expert. Neither do you have to be. :)

(Never tried the Terminator TT, but the Aga is a challenge at first. Just fail until you get it right.)

Can I ask... what what what why do people dissect fly maggot eyes? Really curious. Never heard of such a thing.

Thanks for the further info. I'm not complaining about the advice, so please don't think I am. I just feel like a total newb again. Makes me have more sympathy for the totally new newbs.

As far as the flies... We were using drosophila as a model system for eye development. I've worked with both xenopus laevis (African clawed frog) in my graduate work, and drosophila in my post grad work. The genetic cascade of eye development between humans and frogs is extremely similar, so you can study when and where the genes get turned off and on, and how disrupting them affects eye development, then apply this knowledge to human eye development. Interestingly, even though flies are very evolutionarily distant from vertebrates, many aspects of the eye development cascade are similar (some of the same gene families and homologous genes involved all down the line). Because of this, we can study eye development in drosophila and gain some understanding of human eye development. Each model system has its own advantages. While flies eyes are not extremely similar to human eyes, the conservation of the genetic cascade and some really nifty techniques you can do with flies (that you can't do with any other vertebrate system) makes them a useful model to study. We don't really care that much about how fly eyes develop, except in an academic sense, but instead care about advancing our knowledge of how human eyes and eye diseases develop. When I was isolating the drosophila larval eyes, I would stain them with fluorescent markers to see when and certain sets of genes were being expressed. Then, we would create mutant lines of flies with certain genes disrupted, stain those with the same markers to determine how that gene disruption affected expression of other genes. Hope that makes some sense without bogging down with 'more than you wanted to know'. LOL.

Oh, also, you can get really pretty pictures of these imaginal discs with the fluorescent staining. Not my picture here, but an example:
image.jpg
 

michliu

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Welcome to the wonderful world of RBA's, a different opinion from every vaper out there. Rebuilding your protank and vivi novas is a great place to start. I don't think you'll have too much problem with them. Yes, the space is small, but it will give you practice for those Terminator TT's. And as for the genesises, you can always go with silica if the SS wick gets too frustrating. Lots of threads on how folks have found interim ways around the hot spots by wrapping with fine layers of cotton from a qtip or cotton ball, cheesecloth wrap, silica sleeving wrap, etc. Good luck with your new toys, lots of people to "help" you. :)
 

Spazmelda

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Welcome to the wonderful world of RBA's, a different opinion from every vaper out there. Rebuilding your protank and vivi novas is a great place to start. I don't think you'll have too much problem with them. Yes, the space is small, but it will give you practice for those Terminator TT's. And as for the genesises, you can always go with silica if the SS wick gets too frustrating. Lots of threads on how folks have found interim ways around the hot spots by wrapping with fine layers of cotton from a qtip or cotton ball, cheesecloth wrap, silica sleeving wrap, etc. Good luck with your new toys, lots of people to "help" you. :)

Welcome to the wonderful world of RBA's, a different opinion from every vaper out there. Rebuilding your protank and vivi novas is a great place to start. I don't think you'll have too much problem with them. Yes, the space is small, but it will give you practice for those Terminator TT's. And as for the genesises, you can always go with silica if the SS wick gets too frustrating. Lots of threads on how folks have found interim ways around the hot spots by wrapping with fine layers of cotton from a qtip or cotton ball, cheesecloth wrap, silica sleeving wrap, etc. Good luck with your new toys, lots of people to "help" you. :)

Different opinions abound throughout the world of vaping. No reason to suppose RBAs would be any different ;)

I did not know you could use silica on a genesis style. I hadn't run across that nugget of info yet. All the different solutions people come up with here just amazes me. What a lot of creative and innovative group of people. I watched a video earlier where some lady with a lovely accent was explaining how to join nr and r wire by basically using what ended up being a square knot (I think). She made it look very easy. Such an elegant solution compared to the twisting I saw on another video.

I also watched a very nice video of someone rebuilding a vivi nova and it didn't look difficult at all. He didn't check the resistance first though, which made me nervous.

I haven't found a good video of someone doing a terminator tt or killer even, although I know they have to be out there somewhere. I will find them eventually.
 
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Spazmelda

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Interesting read on the eyes. So nice to randomly stumble across someone working with something I've never heard of. World size increased! Thanks!

With skills like that, you should look into micro coils.

(Joking! Not wanting to add any more confusion... and I know nothing about them)

Ha. I looked at a giant thread on micro coils, but only long enough to realize that it's not something I want to think about at the moment. I'm not even clear on what the advantages are supposed to be.

Thanks for asking about the drosophila eyes. I quit/postponed research when my 2nd kid was born 6 years ago, so I was glad to figure out that I still remembered what I was doing back then and why. Lol.
 

Spazmelda

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My 6 year old is happily watching Spongebob, so I decided to completely take apart a protank atomizer. It looks very similar to the vivi nova in the video I watched. I uncoiled the wire and saw that it was joined nr-r-nr. Looks like on of the nr wires goes inside the rubber stopper thing, and one goes outside it, then the center post gets stuck back in. I straightened the coil out and checked it with my multimeter thingie. I guess I have sort of a chintzy one, because it doesn't zero out to zero with the two probes touching. It just goes to 0.5. When I check the straightened out coil from end to end it reads 3.0. If I subtract the 0.5 that I get when I touch the two probes together, that gives me 2.5, which is what the resistance of the head was supposed to be. Is that accurate enough, or do I need a better multimeter? Like I mentioned, I will be checking the resistance on the ecig as well, once I get the thing assembled.

Also, another question... If I'm trying to measure out the length of resistance wire I need, can I just use the multi meter to measure it? Like touch in two places, see the ohms, them move the probes as needed until I get the resistance I want, make some marks or something to show where to do the joins?

Aside from winding the coil correctly, I think the one thing that will give me a fit is trying to squeeze that rubber stopper back in without dislodging the wire that gets mashed against the metal part. Maybe if I'm holding it taut, it won't be as hard as I'm imagining.
 

eHuman

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Also, another question... If I'm trying to measure out the length of resistance wire I need, can I just use the multi meter to measure it? Like touch in two places, see the ohms, them move the probes as needed until I get the resistance I want, make some marks or something to show where to do the joins?

Sort of, but with a caveat: While that may work in theory, in practice, you need "whole loop coils. Getting an "x"+ 1/4 or 1/2 loop in order to get your Ωs right doesn't work well. The diameter of your coil effects the Ωs per wrap as does the gauge of kanthal you use. Find what works and go with it but know you can hit the same resistance on different gauge wire by varying the number of coils. You'll find what suits you fairly quick.
 

Rat2chat2

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A PBusardo Tutorial - Vivi Nova Cleaning & Rebuilding - YouTube If I'm not mistaken, the Vivi Nova (which I don't really like) and the CE and T2 are rebuilt like he does in this video. I am currently using the eVOD's and there are lots of videos on them and everyone says they are really easy to rebuild. I got my Kanthal off ebay really cheap (100 ft for $5.86). When I build mine, I am going to use the Peaches and Cream cotton yarn at Walmart in the crafts section. I would recommend watching YouTube myself. I get a lot more out of watching someone do it. Hope everything I told you is correct. If not, I'm sure someone will correct me and then we'll both know for sure. I am still real new too. Good luck to you. Hope this helps you a little bit. :vapor:
 

Spazmelda

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Yay! Most of my stuff came in. I won't have time to play today, but soon.

Unfortunately I made a mistake in my ordering. Got vapes was out of terminator tt tanks, so I looked around and found a place that sold tanks and replacement atomizers. Thinking I was smart, I just ordered a few atomizers since I was getting an AGR tank. Now I realize that there is a piece I need, sort of a 510 adapter so that the tt will fit in the tank. So now my new tts won't fit into the new AGR tank. Doh. Well, I found another place that sells the adapter separately and I just placed an order for a few. It's a place I never heard of before, so I hope they are legit.

So, I will have to wait to try those out, but I can play with the aga and try to rebuild a protank coil with all my other stuffs.
 

Spazmelda

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Hey! Probably nobody is reading this anymore, but I'm going to post anyway. My husband took the kids to Home Depot so I got a chance to play around. I think I managed to rebuild a protank atomizer. I used 34 gauge kanthal around 2 mm silica, 5 wraps. Then, i didnt have any 1 mm silica, so i just stuck a piece of 2 mm on top. The ohms reading was 2.6. I forgot to flame it before it got it assembled, so it tasted kind of funky at first. The taste seemed to fade after a few minutes. Next time I'll have to remember to burn it first to see if that reduces the funk. The vapor is fine.

I should be getting 32 gauge kanthal and 3 mm wick in a few days so I can try some other variations. I still have to watch some more videos before I tackle the other atomizer.
 

Spazmelda

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Did you test fire your coils to make sure they glow evenly? If you have a hot spot or hot leg it will make the flavor terrible.

Yes, I did. I had one coil at the end that wasn't glowing like the others so I wiggled it and prodded it until it glowed like the others.

More questions, if anyone would be awesome enough to answer...

-I got some ecowool should that boiled first too? never mind, stupid question
-Whatever this taste is, does it contaminate juice? Last night I switched out my coil for a bought coil, but kept the old juice in the protank and it still tasted bad. I thought maybe I had murdered my taste buds, so I put on a carto tank that I had been vaping previously and it tasted fine.
-Why doesn't the kanthal in the protank rebuild burn the silicone stopper that goes into the bottom of the atomizer? Just curious. I guess that is more of a physics/electricity question.
 
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