Hammer Clone

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Viluxia

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I really wanted to run my hammer in reversed mode, but for some reason my button or the tubes for that matter, wont screw all the way down in the top cap threaded part on the body, catches maybe 1 or 2 threads and stops :( i prefer the looks of that config instead of the tubes coming out of the wrong side, turning it into an L shape, bleugh - any ideas how to solve that?

Should add the button and top cap will both thread into the retaining ring aswell as the tubes.
 

rucni

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well my FT hammer is ready to ship but my order is waiting on the 91% to be restocked. and kemo i am aware that the hammer is heavier than the vamo but its not a tube so i am hoping the weight isnt as bad.

now has any figured out WHY the hammer has a vdrop with the stock 510?
since the wife wont let me spend any more money on gear until i get a job i need a fix that doesnt involve another purchase.
also does anyone know if the vamo tubes will work on the hammer?
 

KenD

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well my FT hammer is ready to ship but my order is waiting on the 91% to be restocked. and kemo i am aware that the hammer is heavier than the vamo but its not a tube so i am hoping the weight isnt as bad.

now has any figured out WHY the hammer has a vdrop with the stock 510?
since the wife wont let me spend any more money on gear until i get a job i need a fix that doesnt involve another purchase.
also does anyone know if the vamo tubes will work on the hammer?

The voltage drop is easy to fix. The 510 "pin" consists of two brass (I think) pieces with a spring between them. I removed the spring and but some brass material from a soldering tip cleaner there instead. More than halved the voltage drop. It still has a larger voltage drop than my origin, but not by much (less than 0.1v on a 1.2 ohm coil and red Efest 18350s, a bit more than 0.1v on a 0.8 ohm coil on the purple Efest 18350s).

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Funk Dracula

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The voltage drop is easy to fix. The 510 "pin" consists of two brass (I think) pieces with a spring between them. I removed the spring and but some brass material from a soldering tip cleaner there instead. More than halved the voltage drop. It still has a larger voltage drop than my origin, but not by much (less than 0.1v on a 1.2 ohm coil and red Efest 18350s, a bit more than 0.1v on a 0.8 ohm coil on the purple Efest 18350s).

Hey now, that's a great idea! I wasn't experiencing voltage drop brand new (hcigar model), but alas that spring in there wasn't made to endure sub-ohming. I'm noticing it slightly now (nothing major), which tells me even though my spring was good to go brand new, it must be slowly frying and wilting in there. I imagine it's only going to get worse over time, so might as well nip it in the .... before it bothers me.

It's a bummer that there is so much trouble shooting required for this mech, but it's worth the effort IMO. I really love the way it looks and holds. My Origen dripper permanently resides on it now, reverse assembled.

Cheers
 

Kemosabe

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The voltage drop is easy to fix. The 510 "pin" consists of two brass (I think) pieces with a spring between them. I removed the spring and but some brass material from a soldering tip cleaner there instead. More than halved the voltage drop. It still has a larger voltage drop than my origin, but not by much (less than 0.1v on a 1.2 ohm coil and red Efest 18350s, a bit more than 0.1v on a 0.8 ohm coil on the purple Efest 18350s).

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Yup. You nailed it. This thread has the complete details somewhere back there. But basically you just replace the spring with a small brass rod.
 

WhazatU

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Feb 28, 2014
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So the only way of getting a replacement switch is ordering a whole Chi You? Been googling and can't even find a replacement for the authentic hammer. My switch has developed a massive wobble over the last few weeks of use.

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Or a King Mod is threaded the same, and with the nut style locking ring it is easier to use. Have used both the top cap and switch from the King on my Hcigar Hammer.

I also kicked mine using a Chi You kick ring and made a spacer out of another kick ring. Bought both kick rings from FT. The chrome version I used as is and cut a spacer from the internally threaded end of their brass version.
 

Funk Dracula

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fits nice in the hand, and doesnt look like im puffin on a fleshlight. lol.

Totally. I dismissed this thing to be a mere novelty pipe mech, but nope. It's so easy to grab and sit down. I basically palm the thing, and my middle finger just rests on the button, it's so much better than a tube.

If it weren't for these damn copper mechs coming out that I want for the mere sake of collecting (and I don't consider myself a collector, but the SV Clone V1 was too much awesome to resist), I'm totally divorced from vaping anything in tube form.

The Hammer and a Reo Grand are the only things you'll find me holding these days. Dildo free.

Now... imagine a friggin' Copper Hammer. AM I RIGHT?????
 

Viluxia

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Ok, ive worked out why my switch/button wouldnt screw into the Top cap threads on the body, the threads on the button/switch were too wide/tall to catch the threads, 5 mins with some 600 grit wet and dry and i sanded them down so they now fit, and hasnt effected the way it screws into the retaining ring for the normal way.

Now time to find some sort of fuse or something to make it work reversed.

Also as for the Voltage drop, if its the Hcigar version, i found actually stretching the spring a little bit, sorted it out, and is now inline with my paps and ehpro mods. .29 drop with a 1.4ohm micro coil :)
 

rucni

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well my hammer should be shipping from FT soon. alas its not shipping with my 91%, which has again has an eta to ship in 3 days.... still showing restocking, but once the hammer gets here i think i will use the knowledge gathered from this thread to tweak what i can and use it with my PT's for a bit. wish me luck and that everything gets here as soon as possible.
 

WattWick

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Documenting the effects of boredom...

98cj.jpg


For the sake of curing boredom I'll leave out the details. Have a guess :rolleyes:
 

Funk Dracula

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Documenting the effects of boredom...

98cj.jpg


For the sake of curing boredom I'll leave out the details. Have a guess :rolleyes:

lol

You know, what kind of threading is on the Hammer? It seems random stuff screws into it just fine. Somebody a page back in this thread asked if a Vamo tube would screw into it, and low and behold it does...

So...

Is this what "21x1" threading is? A generic tooled thread standard?

Wonder what else threads into the Hammer body just fine...

I got bored tonight and mixed up a small batch of wintergreen with koolada, and threw it in a tiny Cyclone RDA running a .9Ω plain-jane micro coil. The way the engravings wrap around the tiny Cyclone diameter is pleasing to the eye. Throw on the 85mm pipe tip and it's a nice minty little vape.
 
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Kemosabe

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Documenting the effects of boredom...

98cj.jpg


For the sake of curing boredom I'll leave out the details. Have a guess :rolleyes:

woah. i like the creativeness. reminds me of a ray gun. is that a KTS/chi-chi tube?
what kind of a grip are you using with that configuration? im imagining palming the switch tube with the hammer base positioned on top, away from you. shootin' vape rays at yourself :vapor:
 

WattWick

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It's part of an MKB-TS. Can't claim to have found a comfortable way to grip it, tho. If only I had a longer nose... Can fire it with my eyebrow, tho. :D

Not sure what threading it has to be honest. Was just messing around to see what fit where. Don't think I've seen any mod specifically use 21x1 threading, but several use 20x1. Which indeed is a "standard" that makes stuff from one fit another. Really wish more mod and atty makers would use it. More different combinations. Buy a tube here and a button there... and a whole lot more hybrid atties to choose from. Contemplating getting a Caravela clone just to get another 20x1 button.
 

KenD

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Had an idea that turned out to be good (and that rarely happens). I took the center pin out of my Kayfun and put in a longer screw, removed the 510 pin from the Hammer top cap, and adjusted the new atty screw so that it touches the brass battery tube inside the Hammer. A drastically lower voltage drop, comparable to that of my Aqua when using the same atty and battery.

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