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Has anyone dismantled the 510 on the Hana to see if it has the internal hex configuration like the Evolv 510s?
Pretty sure he thinks that is why I had a double 200w preheat one time that burned my throat and thereafter the unit vapes twisted ni200 in kanthal non temp mode
They are definitely grounding the chassis through the board mounting screws and using the 510 threads to pick up ground from the chassis as the 510 ground wire connection but as I understand it quite a few are getting high resistance and fluctuating readings at the 510 due to Hana not adequately cleaning the anodizing off the 510 mounting threads before installing the 510s.Tpat,
On my Hana V200 the screws that hold the board down were loose and i was getting erratic readings. After I tightened them down every thing started working. But after about 15 minute mine went belly-up. Anyway I think that Hana counts of those three little screws to pick up the ground which is probably why Brandon is telling you to solder the ground to the the 510.
Thank God John (Evolv) swapped mine out after it had it's major breakdown.
Pretty sure he thinks that is why I had a double 200w preheat one time that burned my throat and thereafter the unit vapes twisted ni200 in kanthal non temp mode
Tpat,
The board mounting screws on mine were at least a turn away form being down flush with the board much less tight. Who knows something like that causing the ground to a quasi floating condition could have been what finally did mine in.
When I did tighten mine down it took a couple of turns to reach what I would call a good tight fit. I would imagine that Brandon knows that the only ground trace on the PC board that is designed to handle the output current is the solder tab (trace) provided at the output end of the board that should connect to the negative terminal of the 510.
My two cents: if I still had the Hana Beast I would definitely add the proper ground to the 510 connector. Just go browse the Vapor Flask Clone thread and read about all the problems they have with surfaces on the box that didn't have the anodizing properly removed and those units rely heavily on the case for grounding.
Anyway Tpat I am with you it will be a cold day in He!! before I ever buy anything ever again from Hana. And I won't mention my experience with their customer service.
Good to know! I was about to buy a Hana 200 but the more I read about them I think I will pass and look elsewhere
My hunt continues for a new DNA 200 mod
My hunt continues for a new DNA 200 mod
Take a look here it is a list of about everything currently available with a DNA 200.
DNA 200 Box Mods – A Summary of all the DNA 200 Mods
Don't forget to scroll down it is a long page full.
I've had my v200 for a little over a month now and after replacing the screen myself, it's been solid. That said, I wouldn't recommend anything from Hana as their CS is a joke as is their policies in general.
I just ordered a VaporShark DNA200. I was going to wait until they offered a sharkskin for it but there's a 20% labor day sale (code: laborday) so I couldn't resist. It's the only DNA200 mod that I was definitely going to get because I still love my DNA40 and rDNA40. Hard to pass up a VS DNA200 for $160 shipped (free USPS priority shipping! Hana charged me $10 for $5 USPS shipping).
I just ordered a VaporShark DNA200. I was going to wait until they offered a sharkskin for it but there's a 20% labor day sale (code: laborday) so I couldn't resist. It's the only DNA200 mod that I was definitely going to get because I still love my DNA40 and rDNA40. Hard to pass up a VS DNA200 for $160 shipped (free USPS priority shipping! Hana charged me $10 for $5 USPS shipping).
I just did too but have very mixed feelings about it.
- Labor Day sale @ $160 is good deal
- Fee Priority Shipping is also a plus.
- May not ship until end of September.
- Always thought it idiotic to put screen on bottom of unit as I don't vape in the mirror or my webcam.
- All Defects must be reported within 7 days of order delivery?
- Only 30 day warranty? They are kidding right?
- Damaged or returned units shipped back to Vapor Shark at customer expense.
- Rubber coating--How long before it peels on these?
I haven't had any issues with my preproduction Hana so I can't speak to their customer service, but after reading all of the issues experienced, it will probably be my last purchase. I also took advantage of the VS sale. I don't mind the screen being on the bottom. I seldom (if ever) look at the screen when I'm vaping other devices, so it doesn't really matter. I can't really make changes to the settings without really looking at the device, and I do not have a device I can do that with now when I'm vaping.
As for the coating, I use my rDNA 40 without a skin and haven't had any issues (but only had it since May of this year) and it is a device I use daily. Normal wear and tear, but no peeling of the coating.
As for the coating, I use my rDNA 40 without a skin and haven't had any issues (but only had it since May of this year) and it is a device I use daily. Normal wear and tear, but no peeling of the coating.
The 7 day policy is for a replacement with a new one. After that, it's fix or replace at their discretion. Where do you see 30 day warranty? I thought it was the usual 4 month. VS will e-mail you a pre-paid USPS label you print out to ship back. The coating is a new 3 step process. I've had my rDNA40 since Nov '14 and still looks like new.
The screen on the bottom is polarizing but I found it to be a non-issue and actually easier to use than one that can be covered by my hand.
YMMV.
The policy popped up under terms of purchase in cart just before checkout. Bought it anyway, but was not pleased with a 30 day warranty. Figured Evolv is essentially providing the warranty on anything that matters in the unit anyway so what the hell. Was really just hoping for a quick ship so I could have a working dna200 while I took the hana down for board replacement.
Those are just VS standard terms for non DNA devices. For DNA40 and sbody macro they explicitly state 120 days. Pretty sure their DNA200 is the same even though it doesn't say that. Oh and they send a prepaid overnight label if you need to send it in under warranty. I know cos they just did that for me.
sorry to revive old thread. I have two questions.
I assume I do not want to spill juice on this because it will get inside?
more importantly: on dna40 with triton vs ni200 coils I was at 400f and 43 watts. this I need to be at 23 watts and 560f. not even warm. it hits temp limit lower temp or higher watts. I have not used escribe yet. am I doing something wrong or do I need to use escribe. I do not see all the settings like tcr. I just see a few things like select coil type, pre heat slider etc. help! other than that this thing does not look built as well as v3,v4 but I guess time will tell. says made in usa I have my doubts. I just need help getting this working please. are there profiles I can load in from somewhere? clueless about this sorry.
I assume I do not want to spill juice on this because it will get inside?
more importantly: on dna40 with triton vs ni200 coils I was at 400f and 43 watts. this I need to be at 23 watts and 560f. not even warm. it hits temp limit lower temp or higher watts. I have not used escribe yet. am I doing something wrong or do I need to use escribe. I do not see all the settings like tcr. I just see a few things like select coil type, pre heat slider etc. help! other than that this thing does not look built as well as v3,v4 but I guess time will tell. says made in usa I have my doubts. I just need help getting this working please. are there profiles I can load in from somewhere? clueless about this sorry.
I imagine risks from spillage will depend on where it is spilt. Down the 510 connection can be problematic with some devices - I used to lightly spray non-corrosive hygenic spray into the 510 of some devices before wiping them round and suspect this may have been risky. As for more information, no doubt those who know here will help who own one !
appears the 510 on this one could let juice in the case. not sure about the connection but around the outside. older hana's the 510 was part of the case. I will just fill tanks off of it. only time I have a leak is if I overfill. as for escribe I jumped the gun. used a little patience and have it all figured out. I think there is a manual too but I managed without it anyways.
Not quite a glitch but an assembly issue where the screen ribbon was pinched between the fire button and board button.
I think the pre-production looks better than the production version. I have the PP version so I might be biased.
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