The new wide bore DT has landed from FT, just remove the top o-ring and it's a very snug fit.
Too bad you can't select the colors. I received a pinkish one
and the orange one I am going to use... 
HCIGAR VT75
- Thread starter Lorenzo Morchio
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Too bad you can't select the colors. I received a pinkish one
and the orange one I am going to use...
slm" data-source="post: 18879929" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">It appears to be a quality made one, time will tell if it gets a little sloppy.slm said:
Cool, thanks!It appears to be a quality made one, time will tell if it gets a little sloppy.
I still need to do some more reading on that other thread ;-)
Ordered a new VT75 DNA75 Mod on Friday as part of an online Black Friday deal. It shipped with free shipping over the weekend, and I got it on Monday. I upgraded from a Pico75. Can't wait to start customizing it and messing with Escribe software.
Damnit... borked mine thanks to that damn batt cap.
Doing a battery swap and the threading felt too crunchy (crap metals) so I lubed them with a drop of VG and ran the cap back in to spread it around... and it seized up, hard.
I've used two different pairs of tweezers on the holes in the cap, but I just can't get enough torque to break it free.
Naturally, I can't find any WD-40 (I'll live with the odor clean-up if it comes down to using that) but I think later today I'll try sitting it in the freezer for 15 minutes and try the tweezers again (I just VG's the exposed threads, it's in farther than normal usage position, and I'll let that seep before the cold treatment).
I've always done that with just about any threaded connection I can recall... works a charm.
Doing a battery swap and the threading felt too crunchy (crap metals) so I lubed them with a drop of VG and ran the cap back in to spread it around... and it seized up, hard.
I've used two different pairs of tweezers on the holes in the cap, but I just can't get enough torque to break it free.
Naturally, I can't find any WD-40 (I'll live with the odor clean-up if it comes down to using that) but I think later today I'll try sitting it in the freezer for 15 minutes and try the tweezers again (I just VG's the exposed threads, it's in farther than normal usage position, and I'll let that seep before the cold treatment).
I've always done that with just about any threaded connection I can recall... works a charm.
Oh man, that sucks! If you have a Harbor Freight Tools close, take a look in the pliers section. Mine has really crappy bent nose ones for a buck or two. You may have grind, file, etc the ends down to fit the holes but you'll be able to get more torque than you can with pliers.
And I cleaned mine and then I lubed it with chap stick type stuff. The wax in it really made the threads pretty tolerable. A candle would work too
And I cleaned mine and then I lubed it with chap stick type stuff. The wax in it really made the threads pretty tolerable. A candle would work too
I might try a microscopic amount of lithium grease if I feel it needs it.
Damnit... borked mine thanks to that damn batt cap.
Doing a battery swap and the threading felt too crunchy (crap metals) so I lubed them with a drop of VG and ran the cap back in to spread it around... and it seized up, hard.
I've used two different pairs of tweezers on the holes in the cap, but I just can't get enough torque to break it free.
Naturally, I can't find any WD-40 (I'll live with the odor clean-up if it comes down to using that) but I think later today I'll try sitting it in the freezer for 15 minutes and try the tweezers again (I just VG's the exposed threads, it's in farther than normal usage position, and I'll let that seep before the cold treatment).
I've always done that with just about any threaded connection I can recall... works a charm.
Have you tried a pair of vise grips on the little flat part on the cap and try tapping the bottom of the cap while twisting it with like the handle of a screwdriver. Worth a shot if nothing else is working.
Your best bet for thread lubricant is No-Ox, used in the electrical industry to protect contacts from corrosion.
Still haven't had a chance to mess with Escribe. Will have all the time I need after a couple weeks. But I've noticed that little center screw on the battery cap likes to loosen itself a lot. I'll change a battery a couple times and notice it rattling and not powering on, and that screw seems to work loose by unscrewing the battery. (I assume). Might have to put a little thread lock on it to help it stay.
Don't do that... it's the battery length adjustment.
Loosen the center small screw, attach the large cap so it sits flush or just slightly recessed (so the mod sits stably on a flat surface) then tighten the center screw to hold the battery in place. Not too tight, not too loose.
This keeps the center screw's head fully recessed and out of reach... it's where the "shocking" surprise comes from.
To change the battery, loosen that center screw a little first so you don't damage the cell's neg plate. Convenient eh?
And make sure to gently tighten down that lone screw head sitting near the edge... it's part of the internal grounding and res will fluctuate if it's loose. Most seem to come from the factory just a little too loose.
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That battery cap is why I've gone to just in mod charging. The DNA board is fine for it, charges at 1A, and I don't have cap thread headaches. The one real drawback to the design. As long as I can usb charge it, I'm happy. I also run it with a 26650 in there instead of the 18650 sleeve, so that little center battery cap screw doesn't have to be messed with either.
Otherwise, it's been a solid mod for me. I can use it out and about with a top airflow Engine, so no leaks in my pocket, and the finish has been fine on the body other than a little wear on the bottom.
Otherwise, it's been a solid mod for me. I can use it out and about with a top airflow Engine, so no leaks in my pocket, and the finish has been fine on the body other than a little wear on the bottom.
How much editing did you end up doing with the Escribe software? Can you literally change almost everything in there? Like make a separate profile for watt only mode, or change the name of the mode from 316 to 316 ss. Also I know I might mess with the curves or find a site that has some different ones uploaded. Also does Escribe look for firmware/hardware updates automatically when you plug the device in?
Quite a bit if you feel like it; damn near it seems; absolutely; sure, though there's a limit to number of characters, it's enough but not a lot; yes, it can alert you to updates (a note in blue text IIRC).
Yes, if there is a firmware update it should alert you. Sometimes it doesn't and it's a matter of checking over at Evolv about any new release, but it usually gets mentioned over here real quick. As for eScribe, yes, you can adjust as much as your OCD demands of you. I leave one profile as power/wattage. As I only use 316L now, I do my profiles by tanks/builds, so I have a 316L for a single simple coil, another for my dual Claptons in my Engines, another for my Limitless Plus, and so on. Each has different preheats and max wattage so I can heat up my Claptons quickly while I don't even bother with preheat for a simple 316L coil. Works really nice like that.
Lots of different curves posted around to choose from. If you track down @Wingsfan0310 , he posts lots of excellent configuration files in his sig. The other place you can get custom curves for different wires is on Steam Engine that can work quite well.
First thing I did when I got the VT133!Cool.
I see you've embraced your obsession.
I run them on the VT75 as well and any other DNA that might end up at the house, like a 167 or a 250...
If the G2 had profiles and took graphics it would have them too. BUT, the Wrecker is hardcore and don't need no steenking profiles...
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