Help please!!!

[RErickXDA]

I am new to this forum and can only post here.
I am also new to vaping and really wanted to quit smoking because my doc said I'm starting to get COPD.
So long story short I went to my local vape shop and bought an A - mod RIG Mod. It's a mechanical 18650. The girl there talked me into a Kanger Aerotank Giant with the dual 1.8 coils. It hits nice has good heft and I love it. However I went to a different shop to buy some more juice and the guy told me I need to step down to the 0.8 coil because it's on a mech mod. I bought them and swapped coils and immediately got a hot button and a smoking hot battery.

My question is why is the 1.8 coil (effectively 0.9) is working fine but the 0.8 (effectively 0.4) gives a hot button?
Wouldn't the lower resistance be better on a mech mod?

 

[Stosh]

First off Welcome to ECF!!! .

Some of the bad advice you have gotten so far from both shops......

A mechanical mod for a new vaper is not the best option, it can only provide a single fixed voltage no adjustment. There's many better variable voltage mods that would be much more suitable for a noob....

A Kanger Aerotank Giant is OK for fooling around with, it was something produced by the manufacturers in the escalating wars of more coils, lower resistance. Not a mainstream tank, likely pushing the stock that wasn't moving otherwise.

Running a coils setup that is effectively 0.9Ω is lower than I would recommend unless you are experienced in ohms law and electronics in general. Depends on if the batteries they sold you are High Amp - High Drain - IMR chemistry to be on the safe side of vaping. Do you know the make and model of the battery you have?

Running a coils setup that is effectively 0.4Ω, you run into problems if the mod's switch (which will also contribute resistance) is poor enough that half of the power that should be going to the coil is actually heating the switch along with the coil. Also if the battery is getting hot, it would indicate it has a lower amperage rating than the 0.4Ω coil is trying to pull. A hot battery is a bad thing, it can damage the internal structure of the battery.

Not to worry we'll get you setup and vaping, no problems....

 

[Frenchfry1942]

It's a shame that people go to vape shops and THEN come here. Someone should have kicked me in the .....

 

[r77r7r]

ECF members can answer really quickly. When you come back, try to spend some time and ask and read as much as you can.

 

[AndriaD]

Stosh I think you nailed it... sounds to me like the battery was capable of enough amps for the first build, but the 2nd one just needed more amps than that battery could deliver.

I agree that this is very far from an ideal setup for a new vaper, most of whom have no understanding of Ohm's Law or why they need to care about it, or what an overstressed battery could do to the architecture of their face or their home. I didn't get a mech until I had been here picking all the battery-genius brains for 6 months.

But welcome to the best forum on the internet, RErickXDA -- where people will actually be helpful instead of just snarky all the time.


Andria

 

[KC33]

If I knew what I know now, when I first started vaping, I would buy an iStick 50 and a Kanger Subtank Mini. The reason I recommend the 50w is that the battery life is unreal and it will give you room to grow if you get into dripping down the road.

The Subtank will give you great flavor and you can switch between .5 and 1.2 coils. It also has a build deck for when you decide to start building.

What type of battery did they sell you with the Rig?

 

[RErickXDA]

First off Welcome to ECF!!! .

Some of the bad advice you have gotten so far from both shops......

A mechanical mod for a new vaper is not the best option, it can only provide a single fixed voltage no adjustment. There's many better variable voltage mods that would be much more suitable for a noob....

A Kanger Aerotank Giant is OK for fooling around with, it was something produced by the manufacturers in the escalating wars of more coils, lower resistance. Not a mainstream tank, likely pushing the stock that wasn't moving otherwise.

Running a coils setup that is effectively 0.9Ω is lower than I would recommend unless you are experienced in ohms law and electronics in general. Depends on if the batteries they sold you are High Amp - High Drain - IMR chemistry to be on the safe side of vaping. Do you know the make and model of the battery you have?

Running a coils setup that is effectively 0.4Ω, you run into problems if the mod's switch (which will also contribute resistance) is poor enough that half of the power that should be going to the coil is actually heating the switch along with the coil. Also if the battery is getting hot, it would indicate it has a lower amperage rating than the 0.4Ω coil is trying to pull. A hot battery is a bad thing, it can damage the internal structure of the battery.

Not to worry we'll get you setup and vaping, no problems....

Stosh I think you nailed it... sounds to me like the battery was capable of enough amps for the first build, but the 2nd one just needed more amps than that battery could deliver.

I agree that this is very far from an ideal setup for a new vaper, most of whom have no understanding of Ohm's Law or why they need to care about it, or what an overstressed battery could do to the architecture of their face or their home. I didn't get a mech until I had been here picking all the battery-genius brains for 6 months.

But welcome to the best forum on the internet, RErickXDA -- where people will actually be helpful instead of just snarky all the time.


Andria

If I knew what I know now, when I first started vaping, I would buy an iStick 50 and a Kanger Subtank Mini. The reason I recommend the 50w is that the battery life is unreal and it will give you room to grow if you get into dripping down the road.

The Subtank will give you great flavor and you can switch between .5 and 1.2 coils. It also has a build deck for when you decide to start building.

What type of battery did they sell you with the Rig?

I was looking at the same iStick 50, but as I work on an oil rig this thing absolutely screamed at me.
The battery appears to be an LG but I'm not sure if it's a clone, a rewrap or an original.
Here's some pics.

 

[lamarrk]

I am new to this forum and can only post here.
I am also new to vaping and really wanted to quit smoking because my doc said I'm starting to get COPD.
So long story short I went to my local vape shop and bought an A - mod RIG Mod. It's a mechanical 18650. The girl there talked me into a Kanger Aerotank Giant with the dual 1.8 coils. It hits nice has good heft and I love it. However I went to a different shop to buy some more juice and the guy told me I need to step down to the 0.8 coil because it's on a mech mod. I bought them and swapped coils and immediately got a hot button and a smoking hot battery.

My question is why is the 1.8 coil (effectively 0.9) is working fine but the 0.8 (effectively 0.4) gives a hot button?
Wouldn't the lower resistance be better on a mech mod?

It would be nice to know what battery they sold you. (Nevermind, I see you have a LG batt)

Also, why do you say they are "effectively .9 and .4 ohms?"
Is that what the vape shop folks told you?

Dual coils individually should be 3.6 Ω each, which gives an effective reading of 1.8 Ω on an ohm meter.
Likewise for the 0.8 Ω coils (they're 1.6 Ω each).

 

[Stosh]

I was looking at the same iStick 50, but as I work on an oil rig this thing absolutely screamed at me.
The battery appears to be an LG but I'm not sure if it's a clone, a rewrap or an original.
Here's some pics.
View attachment 415141View attachment 415142

The LG is a quality battery, tough to tell how authentic from a pic...
Which would lead me to question the quality of the mod itself. the engraving might be just to impress oil rig workers...and it seems to have worked. The stories of our first purchases around here are legend, the vast majority of us didn't do nearly as well as you did even....

An iStick 50 is getting very good reviews, but it's fairly new. Eleaf (the iStick maker) has made improvments from their original 20 watt model, from feedback from vapers. The 50 has a much longer battery life than you can get from a 18650, and it's adjustable (major plus). Just adjust it for the best flavor and vapor, your preference. Don't worry about what number it's set to, other than remembering what YOU like it set to....

 

[lamarrk]

Moved to NEW MEMBERS FORUM from Simple Solutions
Simple Solutions is to assist the Beginning Vaper with getting started, this question is a little more advanced.

 

[Rickajho]

I bought them and swapped coils and immediately got a hot button and a smoking hot battery.

If that is true - you just put it together and it immediately got hot - there's a good possibility that you didn't fully and firmly screw the new coil into the Kanger and it created a short situation at the 510 on the mechanical - with both the center pin and the 510 threads on the Kanger touching the center post on the mod.

 

[RErickXDA]

Moved to NEW MEMBERS FORUM from Simple Solutions
Simple Solutions is to assist the Beginning Vaper with getting started, this question is a little more advanced.

Sorry about that

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

Sounds like you got really bad advice from both vape shops. If the tank only has one coil head with two coils inside, the rating on it should be the overall resistance of both coils in that head. So no need to half the advertised ohms.

A mech mod is an advanced device, as you have learned, you can run into problems with them. If real, that LG battery should be safe down to 0.4 ohms. You may have had a short or a bad connection in the switch. I would consider returning it and getting a regulated mod.

 

[Magic School Bus]

Can't stand vape shops, so much misinformation and extremely overpriced.

 

[RErickXDA]

If that is true - you just put it together and it immediately got hot - there's a good possibility that you didn't fully and firmly screw the new coil into the Kanger and it created a short situation at the 510 on the mechanical - with both the center pin and the 510 threads on the Kanger touching the center post on the mod.

The LG is a quality battery, tough to tell how authentic from a pic...
Which would lead me to question the quality of the mod itself. the engraving might be just to impress oil rig workers...and it seems to have worked. The stories of our first purchases around here are legend, the vast majority of us didn't do nearly as well as you did even....

An iStick 50 is getting very good reviews, but it's fairly new. Eleaf (the iStick maker) has made improvments from their original 20 watt model, from feedback from vapers. The 50 has a much longer battery life than you can get from a 18650, and it's adjustable (major plus). Just adjust it for the best flavor and vapor, your preference. Don't worry about what number it's set to, other than remembering what YOU like it set to....[emoji23]

I went back to the vape shop and threw the proverbial fit. Turns out it was a bad coil. He put a new .8 in and it was fine. He gave me 3 more plus a bottle of juice. After I got home I decided that 0.8 doesn't make as good flavor as the 1.8. Hits harder but burns more.

Sounds like you got really bad advice from both vape shops. If the tank only has one coil head with two coils inside, the rating on it should be the overall resistance of both coils in that head. So no need to half the advertised ohms.

A mech mod is an advanced device, as you have learned, you can run into problems with them. If real, that LG battery should be safe down to 0.4 ohms. You may have had a short or a bad connection in the switch. I would consider returning it and getting a regulated mod.

I love the mod. It was bad advice. The guy admitted it that's why I got free stuff. That and the faulty coil. I don't want a regulated one. This one has an oil rig on it! It's an A-Mod and as far as I've seen they get good reviews and are solid mods.

Can't stand vape shops, so much misinformation and extremely overpriced.

Noted. My buddy has a juice company and got me started on this but he lives like 3 hours away and as he's in the military it is sometimes hard to get a hold of him.

 

[KC33]

I love the mod. It was bad advice. The guy admitted it that's why I got free stuff. That and the faulty coil. I don't want a regulated one. This one has an oil rig on it! It's an A-Mod and as far as I've seen they get good reviews and are solid mods

It is a solid mod and I hope you enjoy it. Please make sure you familiarize yourself with battery safety and ohms law. GL and welcome to the forum. Oh and don't forget to get a few back up batteries.

 

[Noble Gas]

How nice that this story had a happy ending. I hope you can get some good info on battery safety, soon. Since you're kind of jumping into the deep end with a mechanical mod, you're going to need to do some homework to get up to speed ASAP.
The first thing that pops into my head is, I hope you got a reliable charger for your batts, like a Nitecore Intellicharger (I've been using the i4 for a year now with no problems). Also, if you're bringing multiple batteries with you when you leave the house, make sure they're in a safe package that doesn't allow them to touch end-to-end. Most online vape shops carry cheap little battery carriers that only cost a couple bucks.
Welcome to ECF!

 

[RErickXDA]

How nice that this story had a happy ending. I hope you can get some good info on battery safety, soon. Since you're kind of jumping into the deep end with a mechanical mod, you're going to need to do some homework to get up to speed ASAP.
The first thing that pops into my head is, I hope you got a reliable charger for your batts, like a Nitecore Intellicharger (I've been using the i4 for a year now with no problems). Also, if you're bringing multiple batteries with you when you leave the house, make sure they're in a safe package that doesn't allow them to touch end-to-end. Most online vape shops carry cheap little battery carriers that only cost a couple bucks.
Welcome to ECF!

Thank you. And yes I bought 2 more batteries today and an intellicore charger. Not the digital one a step down from that.

 

[salemgold]

If I knew what I know now, when I first started vaping, I would buy an iStick 50 and a Kanger Subtank Mini. The reason I recommend the 50w is that the battery life is unreal and it will give you room to grow if you get into dripping down the road.

The Subtank will give you great flavor and you can switch between .5 and 1.2 coils. It also has a build deck for when you decide to start building.

What type of battery did they sell you with the Rig?

Heck, if we only had an iStick and a Subtank when I started vaping

 

[Noble Gas]

Thank you. And yes I bought 2 more batteries today and an intellicore charger. Not the digital one a step down from that.

Great! Those intellicore chargers are amazing. They will charge almost any rechargeable battery made, even the big 26650's.
Now, make sure you don't drain those batteries below 3.2 volts when vaping, because that will kill 'em. I seldom let mine get below 3.7. Did you get an ohm/volt meter? They're a necessity if you're using a mech, and I use mine every day.
Also, have you been to youtube to check out all the vape reviewers? Ruby Roo is from your home state, and is one of my favorites. And Grimm Green is a huge fan of that Rig Mod.