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To echo steam's post- good for you and good to see someone take responsibility rather than the "I got this" attitude. RBAs are super fun as long as the proper precautions are exercised. Enjoy!!!
If your button start to heat up in the future, clean and polish your contacts. Dirty contacts can also cause the button to heat up.
A couple of things come to mind in reading the posts in these multiple sub-ohm discussion threads...
- The "Join Date" of the posters. Overwhelmingly, the posts promoting the merits of this sub-ohm madness, especially recommending this as something to be practiced by those inexperienced in electronic theory, comes from people with recent to very recent join dates. Experience is knowledge.
- "Hey y'all, watch this." No, I am not labeling as rednecks the posters who are supporting sub-ohm vaping, just reminds me of the old joke on this subject, that's all. But let's face it, the only reason sub-ohm vaping exists, is so people can say, "hey y'all, watch this."
I worked as electronic tech for over a dozen years. Among other areas, my work included repairing electronic test equipment, as well as testing and repairing high-performance ignition systems utilized in racing airplanes, cars and motorcycles for a specialty equipment manufacturer. I have witnessed electrolytic capacitors explode and send shrapnel flying, I have seen a push button switch rated at forty amps explode with such ferocity that the bakelite plunger essentially became a bullet exiting the barrel of the switch, and I will tell you that there is no way in the world that it is safe to put the end of a device producing 40-plus watts of power in your mouth. NO WAY. Just because you may have done this and nothing happened does not mean that it is safe, it only means that nothing happened that time.
Malfunctions happen all the time in all types of equipment, sometimes it is a slow process that gives you time to react, and other times it is instantaneous, and there is no time react - at all. Putting .3 ohms across a battery is essentially putting a short across that battery, sure there is an inductive resistance to the coil, but that is gone in nano seconds. Anybody purposely putting a short across a battery capable of producing high current flow is asking for trouble.
- The "Join Date" of the posters. Overwhelmingly, the posts promoting the merits of this sub-ohm madness, especially recommending this as something to be practiced by those inexperienced in electronic theory, comes from people with recent to very recent join dates. Experience is knowledge.
- "Hey y'all, watch this." No, I am not labeling as rednecks the posters who are supporting sub-ohm vaping, just reminds me of the old joke on this subject, that's all. But let's face it, the only reason sub-ohm vaping exists, is so people can say, "hey y'all, watch this."
I worked as electronic tech for over a dozen years. Among other areas, my work included repairing electronic test equipment, as well as testing and repairing high-performance ignition systems utilized in racing airplanes, cars and motorcycles for a specialty equipment manufacturer. I have witnessed electrolytic capacitors explode and send shrapnel flying, I have seen a push button switch rated at forty amps explode with such ferocity that the bakelite plunger essentially became a bullet exiting the barrel of the switch, and I will tell you that there is no way in the world that it is safe to put the end of a device producing 40-plus watts of power in your mouth. NO WAY. Just because you may have done this and nothing happened does not mean that it is safe, it only means that nothing happened that time.
Malfunctions happen all the time in all types of equipment, sometimes it is a slow process that gives you time to react, and other times it is instantaneous, and there is no time react - at all. Putting .3 ohms across a battery is essentially putting a short across that battery, sure there is an inductive resistance to the coil, but that is gone in nano seconds. Anybody purposely putting a short across a battery capable of producing high current flow is asking for trouble.
Thought I would report back after receiving all the great feedback earlier.
I dismantled the 0.38 setup, went out and got a multimeter. Tried a 4 wrap with 28 kanthal, but still came out at 0.3-0.4 ohm. Dismantled that. Second go, I did a 6 wrap and came out to 0.8 ohm, but after a few fires it settled in at 0.9-1 ohm. Getting great vapor with this set up even with 65pg/35vg, just takes a little longer to get going, but it's a cooler vape, no crackling and mod isn't getting hot anymore. I'm pretty happy with my first try at building, but still much to research and learn.
Forgot to mention, I calculated this setup at 4.1-4.55 amps (4.1v/0.9-1ohm). Right now using an AW IMR 1600MAH 18650 which I believe is rated to 10 amp discharge. Is 4.1-4.55 amps "safe" with this battery?
I dismantled the 0.38 setup, went out and got a multimeter. Tried a 4 wrap with 28 kanthal, but still came out at 0.3-0.4 ohm. Dismantled that. Second go, I did a 6 wrap and came out to 0.8 ohm, but after a few fires it settled in at 0.9-1 ohm. Getting great vapor with this set up even with 65pg/35vg, just takes a little longer to get going, but it's a cooler vape, no crackling and mod isn't getting hot anymore. I'm pretty happy with my first try at building, but still much to research and learn.
Forgot to mention, I calculated this setup at 4.1-4.55 amps (4.1v/0.9-1ohm). Right now using an AW IMR 1600MAH 18650 which I believe is rated to 10 amp discharge. Is 4.1-4.55 amps "safe" with this battery?
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Keep an eye on your batteries, dont let them over discharge. Your AW IRM 18650 shouldnt be discharged under 2.5 volts... When they reach 3.2 or 3.1, switch em for fresh batts, the vape will be better with fresh batts at that point anyway and you extend their overall lifespan.
If you let them discharge under 2.5 volts, they will most probably die... Happend to me.
What is your charger by the way.
Thanks Steam, I was hoping you'd reply
And an extra thank you for the info on not letting them discharge below 2.5v, I was wondering that as well. I am just using the Trustfire 2-battery charger, but planning to buy one of those smart chargers.Ugh I can't believe the shop set you up with that. Stop using it and start learning about building coils. That is so irresponsible, I want to rip my hair out.
Ah, but with dual coil, you 1/2 the ohms. So if each of your coils is coming in at say 1ohm, with the dual coils, that's actually a .5 ohm coil.
Dammit, so you mean i'm actually at 8 amps instead of 4? Well at least now I'm below 10 amps. Getting there slowly but surely
Thanks jef.
How did you mesure the resistance of the atomizer?
Connect the red lead of the multimeter to the center pin (positive) of the atomizer and the black one to the body of the atomizer, that will give you the total resistance... If you get that 1 ohm you talked about earlier, you are fine.
Dont forget to touch the 2 leads of the multimeter together first, check if a resistance appear... And if one does.. subtract that to the measurement you made on the atomizer.
I touched the red pin to the center as you said, but I touched the black pin to the threads. Does this give a different result from touching the black pin to the body?
Touching the pins together gives 0.1 which I subtracted
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I touched the red pin to the center as you said, but I touched the black pin to the threads. Does this give a different result from touching the black pin to the body?
Touching the pins together gives 0.1 which I subtracted
the threads are part of the body so its good.
Check it out for yourself, put the red lead onto the center pin and then touch the threads with the black one, then touch other parts of the atomizer with the black lead except the center pin or the coil, you should get the same result every where
it was only about a 0.1-0.2 difference - body gave me 1-1.1, threads 0.9-1
Are you serious? Every shop that you went to setup coils for their customers at 0.3ish ohms?
I would go berserk in those shops... They would loose a great customer. I spend ALOT of money on vaping. A L O T !
If one of those despicable shop owners out there ever reads this thread... this is what I wish for you.
Either you man up and become responsible or I wish you to go bankrupt!
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Sounds about right... Thats how you can recognize a ok device from a good device. The less resistance the body allows, the better it is. (that and other factors, if it doesnt work but as great conductivity, its crap)
Unless its anodized or something... thats another story, you have to mesure resistance on bare metal.
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