Jane, can you take a picture of that multimeter? It might help.
If not, the Harbor Frieght one would do just fine. Don't forget (like I did, it matters at small resistances like this) to first touch the leads to each other to find the resistance of the leads themselves. Subtract that. Or--and this is what I usually do--you can get a reading on a head you know works, and aim for whatever reading that was.
If you're not using clips or anything, press the lead pretty firmly when you make your measurements. You'll see fluctuations when you move around or don't make good contact (again, at such low resistances this just happens). Take a few readings, and go by the lowest "sane" reading you get.
Before long it'll be clearer when you've gotten a good reading. Of course the resistance isn't going to be in the hundreds, you know?
If you can solder, buy a cheap 510 adapter and solder the leads to it and boom: super-simple multimeter measurements from now on. If you want to throw $20 or so at it, they make multimeters with 510 connections just for doing this, too.
With Novas in particular, I shove one lead up the hole on the battery end, and place the other on the threads, and just press it all firmly with my thumbs. It's not pretty and I'm definitely going to solder an adapter like I said above once I find my solder, but it works well enough.
I mentioned using it to detect shorts because if it has a normal resistance, there's no short. Depending on where it happens, a short will either make the resistance 0, or markedly lower than normal. Theoretically you could toss it on a battery with short protection and give it a shot without using the multimeter. If something's wrong, though, it's a lot harder to diagnose. Is it shorting? Too low resistance? A hot spot on the coils? Just the taste of fresh wick?