Hercules Rebuildable Atomizer (Ithaka Clone)

[buffalofloyd]

Yep, still no gurgling, which is excellent, along with better airflow overall! I think this may have solved it. I do have another question or concern though. I've noticed in my recent builds that I am not able to completely close the manual juice control because the housing will not screw into the base pieces any further and sticks up too far. I am aware that this might be because of the tiny plastic piece I put above the bottom most o-ring on the post to avoid the o-ring getting distorted while tightening the housing down. It's not a terrible concern cause I haven't experienced flooding or leaking but is there a way around this? Also, the manual juice control opening is about 2 or 3 times the height of the plastic piece I added, so this can't be the sole reason. Any thoughts on this? When I rebuild I'll check this out again.

 

[NamVet68]

.....
just to update the discountvapors gimmick was the real hercules deal. now just to figure out whats causing this burnt taste. this ekowool might just not be my bag.

-J

If you are getting a burnt taste, you might be getting a partial dry-hit. Try increasing the juice a bit (turn the mouthpiece counterclockwise about a half-to a full turn) and adding a few drops of juice directly down the mouthpiece like you're dripping....Ekowool needs to be primed in order for it to wick well. As long as your top nut is tight, you shouldn't get any gurgling or flooding that way either. You only need to do this once with a new wick.

Good luck

 

[dwcraig1]

Yep, still no gurgling, which is excellent, along with better airflow overall! I think this may have solved it. I do have another question or concern though. I've noticed in my recent builds that I am not able to completely close the manual juice control because the housing will not screw into the base pieces any further and sticks up too far. I am aware that this might be because of the tiny plastic piece I put above the bottom most o-ring on the post to avoid the o-ring getting distorted while tightening the housing down. It's not a terrible concern cause I haven't experienced flooding or leaking but is there a way around this? Also, the manual juice control opening is about 2 or 3 times the height of the plastic piece I added, so this can't be the sole reason. Any thoughts on this? When I rebuild I'll check this out again.

If you're saying that the openings in the basic feeder ring are higher than there were previously then it's not screwed into the base all the way.
Also how thick is your plastic spacer?

Another question, I have not had this gurgling/not flooding issue, I'm wondering if it is affected by using thicker juice (VG).
So is this the case perhaps?

 

[NamVet68]

.....I am aware that this might be because of the tiny plastic piece I put above the bottom most o-ring on the post to avoid the o-ring getting distorted while tightening the housing down. It's not a terrible concern cause I haven't experienced flooding or leaking but is there a way around this? Also, the manual juice control opening is about 2 or 3 times the height of the plastic piece I added, so this can't be the sole reason. Any thoughts on this? When I rebuild I'll check this out again.

I use a very thin Stainless Steel washer for the same purpose. I think it was an M4, but can't remember exactly - I bought a bag of assorted stainless hardware at a scientific surplus store years ago (Skycraft in Orlando)...I just looked for the thinnest washer with the right size hole. Works perfectly without messing up the internal dimensions.

Most hardware stores have a pretty good selection of stainless hardware also, but it's sometimes difficult to find the real tiny stuff.... Check out a hobby shop that deals with RC cars - they also have very small stainless hardware...

Good luck

 

[IraSurefire]

What's the trick to loosening the draw of this bad boy? It's like trying top suck a watermelon through a straw!

 

[NamVet68]

What's the trick to loosening the draw of this bad boy? It's like trying top suck a watermelon through a straw!

Turn the knurled ring fully counter-clockwise (the one on the outside - full "up" position). The Ithaka/Hercules draws air from an oblong slot under that ring, not from the bottom. If its still too tight, you might have accidentally plugged the air slots with a piece of wick when you assembled it (they are between the bottom O-ring & the plastic negative nut).

 

[dwcraig1]

The slots just under the plastic negative nut are for liquid draining from the bottom of the ceramic if those are the slots that you are referring to.

My red arrow is kind of small.

 

[buffalofloyd]

Here are some photos of what I mean. The spacer I have above the o-ring is very small, smaller than the gap for the juice control but I'm sure if I removed it it would almost close all the way. I cant screw in the housing anymore without taking pliers to this thing and I'm not concerned enough to do that but it does have me wondering. The pic of the juice control/mouthpiece on is as far as it will close...









You'll see also I have the exact same mouthpiece without the narrowing towards the top too, has definitely helped with opening the draw. The stopper point is a little lower on the other piece I'm using but I'm not concerned...





EDIT: I did remove the spacer and it will allow me to close the juice control fully. I guess it's a trade off. Thanks for looking anyway

 

[UA72Riddle]

Well, I have a franken-Hercules now...

My juice shattered both my nauti-term and my Hercules clear window...must be the banana (though it has never happened before and I have been using this same mix for over a year). So, since I have two kayfun kits and one is mounted on my MKB, I decided to piece together the Hercules using the SS term tank section and the upper SS tank section of the Hercules. It's a little longer than before, but it's working fine, though not as nice to look at.

Now to find replacement parts that will hold up, and mix a new juice...lol. I hate seeing that other conversion kit sitting unassembled in the cabinet. :\

 

[dwcraig1]

Well, I have a franken-Hercules now...

My juice shattered both my nauti-term and my Hercules clear window...must be the banana (though it has never happened before and I have been using this same mix for over a year). So, since I have two kayfun kits and one is mounted on my MKB, I decided to piece together the Hercules using the SS term tank section and the upper SS tank section of the Hercules. It's a little longer than before, but it's working fine, though not as nice to look at.

Now to find replacement parts that will hold up, and mix a new juice...lol. I hate seeing that other conversion kit sitting unassembled in the cabinet. :\

Your choices are pretty much 3 upper tank sections for Ithaka (or clone) or 2 Term SS tanks and a Term_C mouthpiece. ( for Hercules )

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Your choices are pretty much 3 upper tank sections for Ithaka (or clone) or 2 Term SS tanks and a Term_C mouthpiece. ( for Hercules )

Pics would be much appreciated if you get the chance, I don't know whether it's even worth me using the plastic tank at all after my term tank lasted less than 30 minutes.

 

[Innocuous]

I'd actually like to see the tobeco+RH ody/terminator & herc/ithaka clones all side-by-side with some arrows showing which parts will fit which/where..

At this point, dwcraig1 has mentioned a lot of interchangeability, but I am now entirely confused!

 

[dwcraig1]

I'd actually like to see the tobeco+RH ody/terminator & herc/ithaka clones all side-by-side with some arrows showing which parts will fit which/where..

At this point, dwcraig1 has mentioned a lot of interchangeability, but I am now entirely confused!

Every single part will interchange between Ithaka, Hercules and the FastTech clone (Tobeco I guess).
As for Oddy, Terminator/Nautilus this video should explain well enough:

 

[dwcraig1]

Pics would be much appreciated if you get the chance, I don't know whether it's even worth me using the plastic tank at all after my term tank lasted less than 30 minutes.

I have no such build as yet but the one with two Term tanks and Term-c mouthpiece will look just like this:

Well almost, imagine the different top cap.
The GGTS has been adopted a few weeks back, it couldn't get along with the MKB-TS'
(I sold it and bought another MKB) Why?, guess.

 

[dwcraig1]

Pics would be much appreciated if you get the chance, I don't know whether it's even worth me using the plastic tank at all after my term tank lasted less than 30 minutes.

Hercules with two Terminator steel tanks and Term-C mouthpiece:

Hercules with three top tank sections, top one is from Tobeco hinse the rounded edges:

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Perfect, thanks!

 

[dwcraig1]

Perfect, thanks!

It was my only shot at it cause I sold one Herc and a MKB a few minutes later

 

[nelsonm64]

great thread guys, I've learned a lot! I have a fasttech version coming and it's good to know I can get spare Ithaka parts and they'll work on my clone.

 

[Guts]

Thanks for all the info, I guess the rebuildable part of the Nautilus fits inside the base of the Ithaka/Hercules too? Nice to see how the tank fits in this base! I may purchase a couple of these tanks for my Ithakas to give them another look ^^

 

[dwcraig1]

Thanks for all the info, I guess the rebuildable part of the Nautilus fits inside the base of the Ithaka/Hercules too? Nice to see how the tank fits in this base! I may purchase a couple of these tanks for my Ithakas to give them another look ^^

The "Oddy rebuildable part only works with the "Ithaka" GGTS base but not with it's 510 adapter attached.