Here is a mystery for you coil experts.

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HauntedMyst

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I have 3 Prometey v1s all running 28g and ekowhool hollow 2mm running AW IMRs. One is attached to a Super T 18650 and is at 1.77 ohms. Another is attached to a Titanide 18650 and is at 1.84 ohms. The third one is a Super T 18500 and is at 1.17 ohms and its by far the best vape. It's the smoothest, most velvety vape and coolest vape of them all. Can anyone think of why the lowest ohm unit gives the coolest and smoothest vape? I know about ohms law only what I want to know about ohms law and that is "the lower the hotter" which is an assumption based on what I've read on this forum.
 

Papa_Lazarou

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I find that air flow determines the vape temp at the DT as much as resistance does. I know you're running identical atties, but things like coil height and distance to the edge (and thus, air hole) affect my air/vape.

Also, not mentioned but still a variable, is the DT itself. Varying that has a big effect on the temp. Maybe moot in your case, tho.
 

HauntedMyst

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do you have the same juice and nic level in all 3?

Also, not mentioned but still a variable, is the DT itself. Varying that has a big effect on the temp. Maybe moot in your case, tho.


Same juice and same drip tip on all three. I can't figure it out. I've never done any maintenance on the best one in a few months just because I like the vape so much.
 

edyle

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I have 3 Prometey v1s all running 28g and ekowhool hollow 2mm running AW IMRs. One is attached to a Super T 18650 and is at 1.77 ohms. Another is attached to a Titanide 18650 and is at 1.84 ohms. The third one is a Super T 18500 and is at 1.17 ohms and its by far the best vape. It's the smoothest, most velvety vape and coolest vape of them all. Can anyone think of why the lowest ohm unit gives the coolest and smoothest vape? I know about ohms law only what I want to know about ohms law and that is "the lower the hotter" which is an assumption based on what I've read on this forum.

It's certainly no mystery.
Any experienced vaper who uses mechs with 28 gauge can tell you that the ohms sweet spot on that combination is around 1 ohm per coil.
 
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Asbestos4004

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One of those mustaches that attaches to the drip tip will make it cooler...is there one of those on that one?
I agree that 1.2 or so is ideal but I can't see how that would make your vape cooler. More dense and rich, yes...but not cooler. Possibly more voltage drop on that particular set up or the coil a bit closer to the air hole?
 

minimalsaint

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One of those mustaches that attaches to the drip tip will make it cooler...is there one of those on that one?
I agree that 1.2 or so is ideal but I can't see how that would make your vape cooler. More dense and rich, yes...but not cooler. Possibly more voltage drop on that particular set up or the coil a bit closer to the air hole?

This is my guess. You're not going to pull the same power from the 18500 that you're getting from a 650, and you would be surprised how airflow placement on a coil will change the temp.
I used to run in the 1.4 ish single coil range but tried a dual coil at .8 that felt like inhaling fire. After some adjustments to the AFC I couldn't really tell much difference between the single and dual setups aside from vapor production. As of right now I'm running a single coil @ .6 with the AFC wide open directly on the coil and it's not even hot on the inhale.
Strange little things, these tinker toys we play with!
 

edyle

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This is my guess. You're not going to pull the same power from the 18500 that you're getting from a 650, and you would be surprised how airflow placement on a coil will change the temp.
I used to run in the 1.4 ish single coil range but tried a dual coil at .8 that felt like inhaling fire. After some adjustments to the AFC I couldn't really tell much difference between the single and dual setups aside from vapor production. As of right now I'm running a single coil @ .6 with the AFC wide open directly on the coil and it's not even hot on the inhale.
Strange little things, these tinker toys we play with!

You found that a 0.8 ohm dual coil of 28 gauge 'felt like inhaling fire' on a mech mod???????
 

minimalsaint

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You found that a 0.8 ohm dual coil of 28 gauge 'felt like inhaling fire' on a mech mod???????

After a single 29g coil at 1.4 was my low end, yes. I had worked my way down from 1.8 and that was the biggest jump I had made. I also used 18mg liquid at the time, 60/40 mix. Sounds silly, even to me now, but that's exactly how I described it at the time and that's how I remember it.
I basically did it all wrong. Airflow had a big part to play in it. That's my story.
 

Ryedan

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I have 3 Prometey v1s all running 28g and ekowhool hollow 2mm running AW IMRs. One is attached to a Super T 18650 and is at 1.77 ohms. Another is attached to a Titanide 18650 and is at 1.84 ohms. The third one is a Super T 18500 and is at 1.17 ohms and its by far the best vape. It's the smoothest, most velvety vape and coolest vape of them all. Can anyone think of why the lowest ohm unit gives the coolest and smoothest vape? I know about ohms law only what I want to know about ohms law and that is "the lower the hotter" which is an assumption based on what I've read on this forum.

The first thing I would do is to move the attys around on the mods and see if the vape follows the atty or stays with the mod. If it follows the atty you have a different setup on that atty than the rest. It does not sound like this is the issue, but one atty could be manufactured differently even though they are all the same model.

If it stays with the mod, it could be a difference in the mods or the batteries, or a combination of the two. If you can move the batteries between the mods do that and see if you see a pattern emerge. If you can't swap batts, I would check voltage drop under load in each and see what I got. I don't have a Prometey but I just looked at a picture of one. Take the tank off a Prometey (I suggest the lower ohm atty) and you can see the positive and negative posts the coil is attached to. You have silica in there so you can fire it wet or dry without hurting the wick and it doesn't matter which for this exercise. Measure battery voltage outside the mod then put the batts back in all the mods. Put that atty on each mod in turn and fire with your DMM probes on the posts measuring volts. The voltage across the posts is what you use coupled with resistance to figure the watts developed (the amount of heat developed by that coil).

If you charge all the batts and test with them at 4.2V, you can simply calculate watts and compare. If battery volts are different, subtract voltage under load from battery voltage and you get V-drop under load. With your batteries all over say 3.8V you can recalculate all under load voltages so they start with the same battery voltage by taking say 4 volts and subtracting the V-drop under load numbers from that and plug those into the calculator.

If you find your Super T 18500 is making a lot less watts than it should it's either the battery is weak or you have high resistance somewhere in that mod (it needs to be cleaned). A 18500 will have more V-drop under the same load compared to a 18650, but IMO if the batts are all in good shape, it should not be all that noticeable at the ohms you're vaping these at.
 
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