Also the igo-w is good workhorse for the money, but the flavor is weak. Still, keep it simple with something 3 post that you can run dual or single on. Adjustable air flow is nice so you can figure out how you like it.
-High-End Mechanicals and Atomizers-Pictures & Discussion Round 2-
- Thread starter JmanEspresso
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imo the flavor is better if you get the halo cap. the chamber size is a lot smaller compared to the stock cap
I have a halo cap. the flavor is improved, but it still sucks. Try it next to a Quasar or something with a really reduced chamber.
This is a combo from Iasi - 14500 Jhonutz mod and Reference genisis by Scientist. 2 ohms, so battery life isn't too shabby. I use sub-ohm builds (though usually .7 is as low as I go) on other devices sometimes, but I think a lot of people would be surprised at the quality of vape that can be had at higher resistance on attys designed for it.
The Pulse Rate, or Burst rate, is not milliseconds. It varies a little battery to battery, but it is generally 7-10seconds. However, I have seen batteries that, on the battery itself, it says something like, 30amp Continuous, 60amp for 75 seconds. But for the most part, the burst rate is usually around the 10second mark.
That said, as long as you're above 1/10th of an ohm, ie: .1ohm, you don't even "need" a 30amp battery most of the time.
A .14ohm coil pulls exactly 30amps.
However, that is a perfect, theoretical scenario. No battery, even the best ones we use, is throwing a full 4.2volts at that coil, its just not happening. Then add in whatever inherant resistance the mod itself brings to the table.. You can very safely bet your not even getting 3.7v.
But Im just saying this for the sake of my point. I know a lot of guys dont do this, but me PERSONALLY, when Im calculating amp draw, I always use 4.2v as my voltage variable. Gives me piece of mind to know even if I AM coming close to the batteries CONTINUOUS limit, Ive got some headroom. Then there is also the Burst amp limit likely being double the continuous.
My apologies, this is the part where I wanted to link the handful of charts I remembered about them stating the burst rate limit being around what I said up above, ~10seconds or so. I didnt bookmark them so a quick google search gave me nada. Normally Id like to have something to back up what Im saying here, but Im going to leave it because Im confident should anyone else find the pages Im remembering, it will back up what I said. And on the flipside, Im not so proud that I can't admit Im wrong, should that prove to be the case.
All the charts I have ever seen anyone referencing regarding anything over 30a amp pulls for some number of seconds deal with the overcharge current protection circuit and how it discharges the battery. I would really like to see a chart that references actual discharge currents that show anything over 30 a for an extended period of time. By extended period of time I mean greater than 1 second.
For instance, this one is frequently used as reference
and is completely misinterpreted
and is completely misinterpreted
I generally don't bother linking charts when making posts like the one I quoted. I find it much easier to type "fact" at the bottom. Lol
On a serious note I'm pretty sure the burst limit is rated in milliseconds. I also agree that in a mech you have some voltage loss and or sag in the battery. I push my 350s a bit, but my math is in the ballpark of common sense on my builds.
HEM CREW
My new acquisition, the Sir Lancelot by Vapesirs, enjoying having the Fogger v4 attached
I've been hunting for this one for long time. Now it states forever out. You are so lucky jhelliwell. Better keep it in the safe place
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Two best mods Lord and Kiss-QE by Gus become very popular nowadays. I am so lucky to have them both.
damn bro.....beautiful shots....great gear!
how did u get copper sleeve for tobh?
Honestly Im so annoyed right now. I actually have a photographic memory, but what I lack(and what seperates me from the world changing photographic memory having people), is perfect recall. But I can literally see right now in my head e xactly what the two pages I am looking for, said. One was a forum or blog post, and one was a batter info chart. One battery was an MNKE 18650 and one was an Efest 18650 30amp(the red ones, the ones I like).
Both items referenced PULSE rate, or Burst Rate, discharge. One said 6-8seconds, and the other said <10(less than 10)seconds.
But I can't find em. And even reading through some hobbiest forums trying to find them, I found numerous threads with fellas discussing amp limit and discharge rates for their planes and other RC stuffs, and they mentioned many times about how the stated amp limit discharge was for continous use, like that of a flashlight. Not an on/off type use, like apparently is relavent to an RC taking off, using a lot more power to spin up the prop, in a 5-6second time frame, then lowering to its operating power.
I know RC planes fly in the air, and mechanical mods stick out of our mouths, but my point is with regard to the Pulse Rate, or Burst rate, being in seconds, not milliseconds.
Bottom line, build a well put together coil on a non-piece-of-crap atomizer, that falls in line with the continous amp limit discharge of your battery, add in some common sense, and you've got about as much safety as you're going to get.
I love subohm vaping, once I discovered it I knew I had found MY preferred vape. The only thing that worries me, is that not all of us subohmers are safe about it.
.14ohm on its own isn't the problem. The problem is, IMO, when the person doing it tries to build that resistance with 26g wire, using one wrap. There is SO much energy passing through SO little wire.. honestly IMO THATS the unsafe part. Using 22 like Ev posted and doing 4 wraps, good. Hell, use 20g and do more wraps.
my point is that its not just the resistance of the coil. Its how that coil is put together. My honest opinion, and this is just me, but, 3 wraps should be the least amount of wraps used for a coil, and when you get lower and lower, using more probably isn't a bad idea.
...but .06ohm? Call me a ninny, but with the batteries we have available today, I dont think we should breach 1/10th of an ohm.
Both items referenced PULSE rate, or Burst Rate, discharge. One said 6-8seconds, and the other said <10(less than 10)seconds.
But I can't find em. And even reading through some hobbiest forums trying to find them, I found numerous threads with fellas discussing amp limit and discharge rates for their planes and other RC stuffs, and they mentioned many times about how the stated amp limit discharge was for continous use, like that of a flashlight. Not an on/off type use, like apparently is relavent to an RC taking off, using a lot more power to spin up the prop, in a 5-6second time frame, then lowering to its operating power.
I know RC planes fly in the air, and mechanical mods stick out of our mouths, but my point is with regard to the Pulse Rate, or Burst rate, being in seconds, not milliseconds.
Bottom line, build a well put together coil on a non-piece-of-crap atomizer, that falls in line with the continous amp limit discharge of your battery, add in some common sense, and you've got about as much safety as you're going to get.
I love subohm vaping, once I discovered it I knew I had found MY preferred vape. The only thing that worries me, is that not all of us subohmers are safe about it.
.14ohm on its own isn't the problem. The problem is, IMO, when the person doing it tries to build that resistance with 26g wire, using one wrap. There is SO much energy passing through SO little wire.. honestly IMO THATS the unsafe part. Using 22 like Ev posted and doing 4 wraps, good. Hell, use 20g and do more wraps.
my point is that its not just the resistance of the coil. Its how that coil is put together. My honest opinion, and this is just me, but, 3 wraps should be the least amount of wraps used for a coil, and when you get lower and lower, using more probably isn't a bad idea.
...but .06ohm? Call me a ninny, but with the batteries we have available today, I dont think we should breach 1/10th of an ohm.
Back on topic..
I know we always say this, but I really notice it with this one. Thing hits HERDASFERK.
The V3 top cap and gpin for the lux arrived yesterday along with the extended chimney and tank for the R91.
My lazy setup... no more adjusting atty pin or for battery rattle and only have to fill up once a day
My lazy setup... no more adjusting atty pin or for battery rattle and only have to fill up once a day
I never experienced using a GP PAPS without a Gpin, but even still, the Gpin is the best thing in the world. I love not having to adjust anything, ever.
Only thing though.. I love the way the 2.5 switch looks. The v3 switch functions beautifully, but the 2.5 switch, without the 4 wings/notches.. Looked very, very cool indeed.
Only thing though.. I love the way the 2.5 switch looks. The v3 switch functions beautifully, but the 2.5 switch, without the 4 wings/notches.. Looked very, very cool indeed.
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