Perhaps the seals will wear out or the rubber deteriorate in time, but for 10 minutes work and < $1 a pop, no big deal. At a guess, at least 2 months. The cartos live longer too - maybe 3-5 time longer
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Perhaps the seals will wear out or the rubber deteriorate in time, but for 10 minutes work and < $1 a pop, no big deal. At a guess, at least 2 months. The cartos live longer too - maybe 3-5 time longer
It will be interesting to know what arrangement of holes/slots are used on the commercial tankomizers - so if you have one, let us know - how many, location and size. ~ TIA
Uma, swedishfish - thanks
The tankomizer is a big step to happy vaping. But unfortunately there is a bit of trial and error in getting the hole/slot right depending on the carto model and maybe liquid, size of tank, etc.
A springy clip-on ring that can be slid up and down or turned to expose more or less opening could be useful.
But I have a feeling that another design advance is still to be made. I guess there's a fair few people thinking about that; I know I am. But the present design comes close. Whoever thought of the syringe method (John ?) made a big contribution to vaping; now the commercial tankomizers (as I call them) are getting more reasonable in price But the DIY is still circa 5x cheaper (over time its not the reusable tank part but the 'holed' cartos that will cost unless make one's own.
The tankomizer is a big step to happy vaping. But unfortunately there is a bit of trial and error in getting the hole/slot right depending on the carto model and maybe liquid, size of tank, etc.
A springy clip-on ring that can be slid up and down or turned to expose more or less opening could be useful.
But I have a feeling that another design advance is still to be made. I guess there's a fair few people thinking about that; I know I am. But the present design comes close. Whoever thought of the syringe method (John ?) made a big contribution to vaping; now the commercial tankomizers (as I call them) are getting more reasonable in price
But the DIY is still circa 5x cheaper (over time its not the reusable tank part but the 'holed' cartos that will cost unless make one's own.
I like this suggestion posted originally by WillyB in the other thread :
One tip, if you like slits keep them right at the bottom grommet and run them up at a slight angle. Then if they seem too big (leaky) you can move the grommet up a bit, covering part of it.
The same could be accomplished with a 'stack' of punched holes.
Normally we're told to think outside the box. In this case, it's think within the tank...
I like this suggestion posted originally by WillyB in the other thread :
One tip, if you like slits keep them right at the bottom grommet and run them up at a slight angle. Then if they seem too big (leaky) you can move the grommet up a bit, covering part of it.
The same could be accomplished with a 'stack' of punched holes.
Normally we're told to think outside the box. In this case, it's think within the tank...
That's a great idea and one I forgot to add. The slip ring would save tank capacity but using the plunger/stopper is simpler.
Somethink like the bubble jet approach that avoided wicking (the fudge) would be best - but the downside is clogging.
We need some way that doesn't rely on capillary action and the need to fight gravity ...
Maybe laser heat; it's almost cost effective but focused on what?
Maybe microwave heat tuned to the glycol? These things can be as small as tiny LEDs (and their laser equivalents).
We need some way that doesn't rely on capillary action and the need to fight gravity ...
Maybe laser heat; it's almost cost effective but focused on what?
Maybe microwave heat tuned to the glycol? These things can be as small as tiny LEDs (and their laser equivalents).
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FYI, Duck tape over the outside hole works too. Replace it after each refill. Make sure the tank surface is clean of nic. Also, if you dont like seeing the mL lines, rubbing alcohol takes them off. This idea works with ce2;s as well. Since the fill hole is at 90* to the tank, you can run a long needle between carto and washer and recover juice.
VG wipes off the markings easily too. Any alcohol would probably do the trick.
Maybe with a small inert liner the duct tape might be acceptable, but not sure, re the glue ...
Maybe a small but wide rubber band, it the taste was ok. Or a grommet, or a bolt; or a threaded grommet plus bolt and washer. Lots of possibilities ...
Maybe a micro-foam ear plug ! Or part of - but not sure what that plastic is exactly.
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Just had an idea for managing the adjustment of the carto hole/slot size ... by using a carto end cap - those silicone things (on 808s anyway). Cut of the end part off so just have a nice inert tight fighting band that fits around the carto and can be repositioned as required to partially obscure the opening.
Just a thought, what if you used mighty fixit silicon tape for sealing up a fill hole? It comes in different colors so you could know which juice you have by the different colors. The only drawback is cost. I think I may have some around & do a test with some old ejuice. One roll should do a lot of tanks & can be replaced if need be. I think as long as it wraps around at least one time it might work.
Do you have a fill port or not?
Some people put the fill port at the bottom of the tank (toward the battery end), then fill the tank upside down. Then put back in the plug, invert the tank and watch for bubbles to come out of the holes to show that the filler is getting saturated. Check for drips and wipe if necessary before screwing on batt.
I usually put the fill hole towards the top of the tank. I use a .... plug to seal up the battery hole, take out the fill hole plug and fill the tank while it is lying on it's side. Once the tank is full I put the fill hole plug back in and take the .... plug out (in that order, or juice will leak out). Let any excess drip out (sometimes happens, sometimes doesn't) and then give the battery end a wipe before screwing it on the batt..
I've tried it both upside down and right side up, and I don't really get any different results either way.
If you don't have a fill port, you slide a syringe needle between one of the rubber cap plugs and fill that way (how he does it in the video).
Some people put the fill port at the bottom of the tank (toward the battery end), then fill the tank upside down. Then put back in the plug, invert the tank and watch for bubbles to come out of the holes to show that the filler is getting saturated. Check for drips and wipe if necessary before screwing on batt.
I usually put the fill hole towards the top of the tank. I use a .... plug to seal up the battery hole, take out the fill hole plug and fill the tank while it is lying on it's side. Once the tank is full I put the fill hole plug back in and take the .... plug out (in that order, or juice will leak out). Let any excess drip out (sometimes happens, sometimes doesn't) and then give the battery end a wipe before screwing it on the batt..
I've tried it both upside down and right side up, and I don't really get any different results either way.
If you don't have a fill port, you slide a syringe needle between one of the rubber cap plugs and fill that way (how he does it in the video).
I am thinking about making one.
I dont understand about the side hole to fill it up easier.
You say you can use a pin or the end of a plunger but how does that stop the hole? Can you provide more details about how to create the side plunger?
I dont understand about the side hole to fill it up easier.
You say you can use a pin or the end of a plunger but how does that stop the hole? Can you provide more details about how to create the side plunger?
Maybe posts # 776, 1031 and 1396 in this THIS THREAD will help ya out. If ya have any more questions, come on back!
THANKS Iffy for posting this info for the people that have wondered about tanks, that is the best information on the tanks, that is on the ECF. Lots of reading but will explain how the tanks are made and how they work.
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You two are becoming amusing
I was happy for Iffy to write up a 'how-to' but he eventually declared he couldn't be bothered, remember ?
'Best' maybe but 1000 pages is a bit of a read
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People have found many ways to do this and you may find your own.
The basic idea is to be able to refill the tank without taking it apart. So a hole is made at one end of the outer syringe tube to enable refilling; this hole can be very small if a syringe is used for the refilling (ideal). This refill hole will will need to be plugged with something that fits tightly and would not easily be dislodged.
+++
Regarding the syringe plunger as fill hole stopper : this is effectively a fllied grommet; it needs to come from a small syringe (the black rubber part; a smaller version of what we use to seal each end of the tank).
Some models of small syringe have a round plastic bit that can be used as a plug (pics of this in first post).
You can check http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...756-homemade-syringe-tank-mod-looks-easy.html for new ideas, but if any particularly good ideas arise, I'll report them here.
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As the tubing itself is not particularly flexible (though a short bold might tap into it reasonably well), one idea I have is to use a grommet - the grommet fits tightly into the hole and forms a flexible opening that can be more securely plugged with something of the right size.
Have a look through your odds and ends drawer, toolbox, sewing box, DIY store, etc ...
Have a look through your odds and ends drawer, toolbox, sewing box, DIY store, etc ...
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