I just snagged a kayfun clone from my local shop and I'm running it on a VW device. I build a 1.7 ohm single micro coil out of 30 guage kanthal. I've been running it around 8-10 watts and I'm not blown away with flavor like I thought I would be. It's wicked properly and all that jazz but I feel like my rebuilt protank had better flavor. What am I doing wrong?
how do you build your kayfuns?
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What are you using for wicking material? If you are using silica, you may want to play with a natural fiber wick, such as cotton, hemp or rayon. I've found that their improved wicking abilities over silica provides much more flavor, IMO. Make sure that your coil isn't too tight around the wick to allow for unrestricted juice flow. This is more important with cotton and hemp since they swell when wet.
Most common KF/R91 (and clone) errors and issues... when using cotton or similar fiber wicking, with a single, horizontal coil:
1. Wick too dense - using unrolled cotton balls, 1/16" thin X 5/16" to 3/8" max wide strip - roll it just snug enough for item #2.
2. Wick too tight in coil - cut from make-up sheets or unrolled ball - a slight drag only on the pull-through.
Items 1 & 2 can cause a reduction in capillary action to and in the coil, resulting in poor vaporization and burnt wick.
3. Wick length - approximately 1" (25mm) long. Enough to reach and mostly cover the juice deck. (length, unless it's way too short or stupid long, is actually a non issue)
4. Coil relative to air tube/positive deck - coil should be at least 1mm above the deck to obtain best air flow around the coil and reduce the possibility of juice overrun into air tube. I generally run 1.5-2mm.
5. Excessive outside air flow allotment - A fairly recent issue due to (owner) enlarged air ports and KF clones that have departed from the original, well developed SvoeMesto design.
Too much of available draw vacuum is used to draw in fresh air... and not enough to elevate the juice boundary layer up to the wick. Resulting in dry hits and burned wicking. This occurs when:
a. The atty has been modified to increase air flow.
b. The atty is a "high flow" design clone.
c. Some clones when the AFC screw is removed, or in combination with a. & b.
6. Inadequate current for the resistance - basic Ohms Law calculation - see sigline hyperlinks.
7. Loose positive deck - Air tube/screw not adequately tightened, causing the positive deck to rotate and dead short against the negative block.
8. Air leaks - Most likely... the chimney o-ring in the top cap. Results in flooding because minimum negative pressure (vacuum) cannot be maintained in the liquid chamber.
There are a few more... but they're pretty rare, or very specific to the individual build and/or atty. ;-)
1. Wick too dense - using unrolled cotton balls, 1/16" thin X 5/16" to 3/8" max wide strip - roll it just snug enough for item #2.
2. Wick too tight in coil - cut from make-up sheets or unrolled ball - a slight drag only on the pull-through.
Items 1 & 2 can cause a reduction in capillary action to and in the coil, resulting in poor vaporization and burnt wick.
3. Wick length - approximately 1" (25mm) long. Enough to reach and mostly cover the juice deck. (length, unless it's way too short or stupid long, is actually a non issue)
4. Coil relative to air tube/positive deck - coil should be at least 1mm above the deck to obtain best air flow around the coil and reduce the possibility of juice overrun into air tube. I generally run 1.5-2mm.
5. Excessive outside air flow allotment - A fairly recent issue due to (owner) enlarged air ports and KF clones that have departed from the original, well developed SvoeMesto design.
Too much of available draw vacuum is used to draw in fresh air... and not enough to elevate the juice boundary layer up to the wick. Resulting in dry hits and burned wicking. This occurs when:
a. The atty has been modified to increase air flow.
b. The atty is a "high flow" design clone.
c. Some clones when the AFC screw is removed, or in combination with a. & b.
6. Inadequate current for the resistance - basic Ohms Law calculation - see sigline hyperlinks.
7. Loose positive deck - Air tube/screw not adequately tightened, causing the positive deck to rotate and dead short against the negative block.
8. Air leaks - Most likely... the chimney o-ring in the top cap. Results in flooding because minimum negative pressure (vacuum) cannot be maintained in the liquid chamber.
There are a few more... but they're pretty rare, or very specific to the individual build and/or atty. ;-)
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If you think a protank is better then you'd better look at Flux's list. The only thing I'd add to that list is to make sure your coil isn't sitting right on the main airhole. Take the wick out and put a small nail through it and pull it up away from the hole at least 3mm.
⅛" wrapping post, 8 wraps using 24 gauge kanthal sitting 1.5mm above the deck. It comes out right around 0.75Ω. Then, as much wick (organic cotton) as I can fit without blocking the juice channels.
I never get dry hits, even at 30W on my DNA 30. Great flavor and vapor.
I never get dry hits, even at 30W on my DNA 30. Great flavor and vapor.
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No worries... who ever actually reads all of every post? I certainly don't. ;-)Sorry SOF. Didn't read it entirely I guess
That's probably why there are so many damn posts. No one really reads the actual helpful part!!!!
EDIT: I stil like the coil to be 3mm above the deck FWIW.
Alright so I solved my problem. It was a combination of what everyone here said. I twisted some 30 guage kanthal and made a 1.3 ohm coil and placed it diagonal to the air hole. I wicked it up with a little less cotton and I'm vaping at 15 watts. I know I can't take full advantage of that coil but it's a lot more flavorful as well as smoother, the vapor production is about the same. I can't wait until my nemesis clone comes in and I can really see what this thing can do
Edit: added pics! Let me know what you think!
Edit: added pics! Let me know what you think!
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The coil really needs to be at a diagonal on kayfuns. The wick should look like a Z when you look at it from above. Good job on it BTW!!
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