RDA How long does it take to master an RDA?

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Sm0keydaBear

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The main issue with rda's is the mod you're using in general. You can always slap on a really complicated coil but that doesn't mean it's going to give you the vape you want. To truly master an RDA, you have to master the coils that you're using/making. I've done a lot of experimenting with coils and always the best bet is checking the amount of ohms and knowing what ohms your device likes.
 

Ablonz

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It takes time to find the right set up for you...... I am now learning nickel builds as my kanthal build is dual twisted 26 guage @.3 ohm....Perfect for Me in my own eyes. Single coil of course would be the same except @.6 ohms. Give it some time. Try your setups for a couple days at a time. It may grow on you. PS. it has taken me almost 5 months to find my Kanthal build
 

Froth

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Took me a solid month of building new coils every other day to find exactly what I liked with an RDA, it's definitely not an immediate thing. One piece of advice that helped me along was to not try to continually improve on something you already like, once you find the build you enjoy and satisfies you just keep making it otherwise you end up frustrated because you took a build out that was good and in trying to improve it you end up putting a worse build in.
 
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BoUlToN

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Took me a solid month of building new coils every other day to find exactly what I liked with an RDA, it's definitely not an immediate thing. One piece of advice that helped me along was to not try to continually improve on something you already like, once you find the build you enjoy and satisfies you just keep making it otherwise you end up frustrated because you took a build out that was good and in trying to improve it you end up putting a worse build in.
That saying "don't fix what isn't broken" yeh I haven't found anything yet, the best I've done is a single 4 wrap coil but then the flavour isn't lasting long enough, I'm sure I'm putting enough juice in so somewhere I'm going wrong. I'm guna put my head down now and have another go at it after work tomorrow. If i get stuck again would you mind if i dropped you a message for a little bit of help?
 

BoUlToN

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Oct 2, 2015
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It takes time to find the right set up for you...... I am now learning nickel builds as my kanthal build is dual twisted 26 guage @.3 ohm....Perfect for Me in my own eyes. Single coil of course would be the same except @.6 ohms. Give it some time. Try your setups for a couple days at a time. It may grow on you. PS. it has taken me almost 5 months to find my Kanthal build
I'm still trying to find my setup, I haven't been happy with anything yet, I'm definitely going wrong somewhere and i thing it's with the wicking. I'll have another go it after work tomorrow. Thank you for the advice, much appreciated.
 

BeerGolfClouds

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Mastering how to wick properly is the key to mastering RDAs IMO. Building coils is easy in comparison.

A couple of good methods out there are the Vapergate wicking style and the Scottish Roll, both of which can be easily found on YouTube.

Also, to truly be a "master", you should completely learn Ohm's Law, battery safety, and learn how to build for a mech mod. Many of us here had no other option besides mech mods a couple of years ago, so we were forced to build coils to a particular resistance in order to get the desired wattage to power our builds. Once high-powered regulated mods burst on to the scene, it all became so easy (relatively).
 

BeerGolfClouds

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Another thing, OP: I saw in your other thread that you're using 22ga kanthal at the moment. I'd recommend trying 24 or 26ga first and get those builds locked down. Crawl, then walk, then run. 22ga heats up slowly, then gets awfully hot and takes a while to cool down. Dry hits will come frequently, especially if your wicking is off.
 

Ablonz

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I was using kangertech .5 subtank before this RDA so this is my 1st RDA, with the few decent puffs I'm getting are spot on, i just can't keep the taste up. It's only on 50Watts at the min, max I've been is 60.
Seems like its heating up too quickly and staying too hot. I notice that when I chain vape on higher settings, the flavor goes...eh. But if I keep the power down, flavor stays more continuous. What mod are you using?Hope that helps.
 

Sm0keydaBear

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Seems like its heating up too quickly and staying too hot. I notice that when I chain vape on higher settings, the flavor goes...eh. But if I keep the power down, flavor stays more continuous. What mod are you using?Hope that helps.

I think he said iStick 100w. IMO, that should be enough power to stop it from heating up very slowly but not too many people feel good about setting it to 100w so... But I think you guys are right, maybe it's heating up too slow and then taking too long to cool and burning away extra juice.
 

Verb

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It is taking too long to heat up, it's not vaping as soon as i press the button, i have to wait .5-.7 of a second til i get something. I'm not using it at 100W though, using it at 60W at the min. Is this a problem?

22 gauge has a lot of mass. That takes time or power to heat. Try more power or a lighter gauge.
 

mountainbikermark

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It is taking too long to heat up, it's not vaping as soon as i press the button, i have to wait .5-.7 of a second til i get something. I'm not using it at 100W though, using it at 60W at the min. Is this a problem?
To me that sounds like your coil(s) as well.
What resistance are you wrapping to?
What inner diameter are you using?
I usually build around a .4 to .5 ohm dual coil setup with a 2.5mm inner diameter so I get a quick start up without a long cool down period afterward. I use 26awg Kanthol but I think 24 gauge should be able to get a quicker than .5 second heat up time that you are getting . It's just finding the sweet spot.
Here's a 5 wrap, dual coil build with 24 awg Kanthol, 2mm inner diameter that comes in just above .2 ohms. No discernible ramp up/cool down time, my wick goes down into the juice well on 1 side and is left bunny eared on the other for easier refills. I'm comfortable with its vapor temperature up to 50 watts but I like a cool wet vape.
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TX Foilhead

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I'm far from being a master at it, but I can make it work most of the time after 6 months. The first thing I realized right away was the need for back ups. I now have multiples of everything, the advantage is I can tinker with things on one without taking the one I carry everyday out of service. It also makes it easy to compare what's different when one works but the next one doesn't.
 
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mountainbikermark

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I'm far from being a master at it, but I can make it work most of the time after 6 months. The first thing I realized right away was the need for back ups. I now have multiples of everything, the advantage is I can tinker with things on one without taking the one I carry everyday out of service. It also makes it easy to compare what's different when one works but the next one doesn't.
True that. When I try a new build I make 4. If I botch up the install of the first ones I've got backups. If I like how it turns out I'll wrap 4 more, toss them in a Ziploc snack sized bag and label them. I also cut a sheet of Japanese cotton into 10 ~ equal strips and I can thin each strip out if need be but it's been about right without thinning on 3.5mm id and 3.0mm id coils and peel one layer for 2.5 mm id coils. I haven't built but the one 2mm and I used cotton ball for it for the bunny ear effect. I've been building a couple of weeks but asking tons of questions and mimicking things I've seen others do, in real life or YouTube videos. Right now I think making wicks is helping me not smoke more than vaping itself. I get too busy making or thinking about making to smoke. I got a coil builder kit that has made making simple coils a breeze. I next want to get better at split coils for that quad coil look in a dual coil setup.

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Sm0keydaBear

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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that original poster might like 24 or 26 gauge kanthal, or 26 gauge Nichrome 80. The thing with the iStick 100w is, its sweet spot is probably somewhere around .5 I'm guessing (I just checked on steam-engine and it says .7.) So at around .7 ohms, the original poster should meet the criteria of the coil firing up immediately, and not delayed.
 
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