RDA How long does it take to master an RDA?

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BoUlToN

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Oct 2, 2015
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The hot spots is the culprit. Do this. Take your wicks out, get a pair of tweezers (ceramic if you've got them) and heat the coil until it's red. Let off the fire button and squeeze the coil gently with the tweezers. Repeat a couple of times but make sure you do NOT push the fire button while the tweezers touch the coil if they are not ceramic ones. You'll cause a dead short if you do. What you should see is your coil turn red from the center outward and no black spots or brighter red spots with short pulses.
Do the same with the other side. Once done with both sides fire it up until it turns red and see if they're both the same shade of red at the same time. If not, the side that is darker, repeat the process described above.
It won't take long to be able to do it quickly and as you wrap more coils you'll get better at no gaps or wider inner diameter in spots, thus less squeezing needed.
Go ahead and wick as usual if you're confident your wicking is good. I'm currently installing vertical coils only because they're so much easier to wick. Just push into the coil, pull from the bottom with tweezers until the bottom is just touching the bottom of the juice well. Fluff it out in the well as much as I can. Cut off the top about a quarter inch above the build deck posts. I then fluff it out as best as possible. I literally drip into the top of the drip tip and science takes over as gravity draws the juice down into the well, the well accepts any overflow that the cotton doesn't absorb, heat draws the juice back up when I push the fire button, gravity takes it back down as the coils coil, heat draws it back up, repeat. The wick stays wet longer, more puffs between refilling.
Hope that helps.

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And vertical coils is the same method of making? That sounds like its worth giving ago? But as the other member stated i think i need to change my wire before i start anything else.
 

BoUlToN

Senior Member
Oct 2, 2015
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What I do when I want to make sure I will have no problems at all with hotspots, is I make the wicking as generally fat as the coil can handle without making the coil move as I weave the wicking material through, and then proceed as normal when it's made it to the other side.
I've tried all that mate, I've literally tried different size coils, wires, wicks, wattage, ohms, wraps and still burnt taste. I'm hoping i need to change the type of wire.
 

Sm0keydaBear

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Aug 13, 2015
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I've tried all that mate, I've literally tried different size coils, wires, wicks, wattage, ohms, wraps and still burnt taste. I'm hoping i need to change the type of wire.


When you get hot spots, that means that the wicking and juice is not making contact with all of the coil. Hot spots do occur sometimes on the legs, but usually that isn't an issue when you dry burn and ensure that the coil is heating from the center first. When you get hot spots on the coil where the wicking IS making contact, then you need to make sure that the coil is making complete contact with the wicking material.
 

apache1649

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Oct 19, 2015
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Yeah, doesn't seem like hotspots if it's only after a few hits. You should feel some tension in your wick when it's in the coil, but not so much that you feel like you're forcing it through. I would say make sure that's how your wicks are, and then make sure that they're all the way down to the bottom of the deck and maybe add a few more drops of juice. Drippers will go through juice really quickly sometimes so 5-6 hits just be time to redrip with your current wicking.
 

apache1649

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Oct 19, 2015
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if your coils glow evenly from the inside out when you press the fire button it isn't hot spots. If they don't, I explained how to get rid of hot spots in my post, and there are many videos on YouTube if it wasn't clear, I don't know how to explain it better than that so I would point you in that direction. Rip Trippers early build videos are great if you're just starting out. I think has has a playlist called coil building 101 on his channel.
 
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mountainbikermark

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Jan 13, 2014
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And vertical coils is the same method of making? That sounds like its worth giving ago? But as the other member stated i think i need to change my wire before i start anything else.
Wrapping is exactly the same. It's installing it vertically instead of horizontally but I'd suggest get a horizontal build (coil and wick) you're happy with first though. No gaps in the coil for even heat and the right thickness and length of your wick. My hardest thing to get right is the thickness that gets pushed through the coil, whether vertical , slanted or vertical.

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EU6EN3

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just searched for clapton wires on ebay/amazon, bit confused by it all, 26AWG wrapped in 32AWG?? Is this right?

ya.. that will do great. Dont have to go ebay my fren, try fasttech.com. There you will be able to get whatever you need, a one stop e-cigg mega mart. while you are buying the coil do get yourself a pair of Ceramic Straight Tweezers. It is very important to make sure that there are no hot spot in the coil, especially clapton.

i have paste the link below. There are more choices, these are just a few.

$5.26 Stainless Steel + Ceramic Straight Tweezers for E-Cigarettes - 1.0±0.05mm / silver + white at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$6.30 Clapton Kanthal A1 Coiled Heating Wire for Rebuildable Atomizers - 32/26 AWG (0.2mm/0.4mm) / 5m (15 feet) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$9.48 FeCr Alloy Coiled Heating Wire for Rebuildable Atomizers - 32/28 AWG / 0.2mm*0.3mm*10m at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 

subohmboy

Senior Member
Sep 19, 2015
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Wrapping is exactly the same. It's installing it vertically instead of horizontally but I'd suggest get a horizontal build (coil and wick) you're happy with first though. No gaps in the coil for even heat and the right thickness and length of your wick. My hardest thing to get right is the thickness that gets pushed through the coil, whether vertical , slanted or vertical.

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For an approximate wicking measurement for RDAs I use this method... Using organic Japanese cotton squares I cut a strip approximately 2x the width of the inner diameter of the coil. I remove the smoother compacted outer layer of cotton, twist and insert the now fluffy strip of wicking ensuring it is snug but not overly so and just drape the wick until it touches the bottom of the juice well, no more. This method works very well. I can vape until the wick legs are visibly dry without getting a burnt hit.


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mountainbikermark

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Jan 13, 2014
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For an approximate wicking measurement for RDAs I use this method... Using organic Japanese cotton squares I cut a strip approximately 2x the width of the inner diameter of the coil. I remove the smoother compacted outer layer of cotton, twist and insert the now fluffy strip of wicking ensuring it is snug but not overly so and just drape the wick until it touches the bottom of the juice well, no more. This method works very well. I can vape until the wick legs are visibly dry without getting a burnt hit.


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I cut the sheets into 8 equal pieces and depending on id I either don't peel layers ( 3.5mm id) to as many as front and back cover pieces for 2mm id. I am newer to building so I'm constantly tinkering with new coils and wicks, this why I cut so many at a time. I've got 2 Velocity clones and a Troll I tinker with but leave my Lush and Mad Hatter at what has worked so far. I've just started using sheets as well, got tired of ball inconsistency and olditis in my fingers.

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Tom Forde

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Mar 16, 2015
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I've been building since like Feb, this year, and while I can build almost any of the coils you would see on Instagram I don't consider myself to have mastered building. I'm just a quick learner with my hands. I don't think there's a specific time frame to "master an rda" but it varies from person to person depending on their fine motor mechanics skills.
 

javyn

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I've got a dual coil in it now, so got both lots of bottom holes open and 1 row of side holes open on both sides, the clouds are good just the taste goes too quick, still think it's the wicking I haven't got right, what's the best way to know the right size wick? No matter what i do it's not right.

You're gonna want to choose either bottom under coil airflow or side air, but not both. Generally speaking if you are going for flavor, use bottom air, for clouds use side. My Mutation V3 does side air only, but the flavor is surprisingly good if you choke it off a little.

Whichever airflow you choose, try to position your coils as close to the air holes as possible. You want the air coming in hitting that coil first thing.

Also a little trick I've found is if you are having trouble getting the coils to fire evenly, or have hot spots, you can stick your screwdriver or whatever in the coils, and very lightly scrape them from the inside to slightly separate them. Don't know why but that helps me a lot.
 

melodiousThunk

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Someone may have mentioned this before already, but you might want to build a bit higher and lower your wattage while you're mastering coil building/wicking/air flow. This shizz takes practice and experimentation to see what works and what doesn't. It's a process. I've been building for years and my skills are still improving through working with new materials or new atty designs.

For getting your builds down, 4 wrap coils of 24 or 26g are going to short easily, and have mad hot spots if you're firing them at 50 or 70 W. While you're improving your building/wicking/airflow skills and getting familiar with different materials, coiling with more wraps of 24 or 26g kanthal & pulsing at around 20W to work with your coils and get your techniques down will definitely take some stress out of the task. And it will speed your learning curve. When I was first building .2-4, I would have gone through a lot of coils if I'd just installed them, pinched, adjusted then fired them at 50W. I was using mechs of course, but I still pulse my coils at a low temperature until I've got them right, then I turn up the watts.
 
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