How to: Build the Puck

[ThePuck]

Thanks for sending me to the site. The wire was actually the right one, but this step:

Solder the black wire you removed in the last step to the spring contact you just inserted.

was the one I was missing. It didn't say to do that on the ecf instructions (or I missed it). So that wire was just loose inside the battery box but was soldered to the atomizer lug in the control box. I made the connection as shown on your website. Put it all together all excited Popped in my batteries and nothing happened. Went back through all the instructions and it's all wired right. Only thing I can figure is the solder bridge on the jack. It was my first solder attempt and it wasn't pretty. Perhaps that's the issue

So back to RS tomorrow for more battery boxes and starting all over again. One more question if you don't mind. The resistors I got there were the 470 ohm. But they had 1/4 watt and 1/2 watt. I bought both since I wasn't sure. Which ones would you recommend using?

I'm really bummed it looks so cute sitting there. But on the bright side, I tried something I've never done before. Oh well, this old lady will get it right eventually.

The resistor wattage doesn't matter. You can use the smallest resistor since LEDs don't use hardly any current at all.

If you have a volt-ohm meter, put the atomizer on the puck (remove the batteries) and measure the resistance across the two wires attached to the atomizer jack/connector. If it shows an open connection instead of 3 ohms or so then it is your atomizer connector soldered connection. If your volt/ohm metter shows 3. or so ohms, your problem is elsewhere.

You should be able to get the existing jack/connector out of your box. It may not be really easy but you should be able to force it out with the epoxy still on it. I have to do it myself sometimes.

If you are going for a new connector, after making the solder bridge connection on the jack, screw an atomizer on it and measure across the terminals of the jack with an volt/ohm meter. If you soldered the bridge across the jack correctly, you should see ~3 ohms or so. If it is showing no resistance or a open connection, your solder bridge is not working.

Let me know how it turns out

 

[ancient puffer]

Just wanted to add, now that you figured out where to attach the black wire, you're DONE! Whatever is causing it not to work at the moment, is bound to be minor, so all you need is a little tweak and you'll be golden. Don't give up, if *I* can make one that works, anyone can

 

[JewelzBagz]

Ah-so much Greek to be learned! LOL Actually, I got that free meter harbor freight was offering on labor day. Now I just have to figure out how to use it . I will give it a shot later today or tonight and will report back my findings when I do. Thanks for being so helpful to a complete idiot!

 

[TomCatt]

Ah-so much Greek to be learned! LOL Actually, I got that free meter harbor freight was offering on labor day. Now I just have to figure out how to use it . I will give it a shot later today or tonight and will report back my findings when I do. Thanks for being so helpful to a complete idiot!

Here's some simple how-to's on using the meter http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...talciggz-gift-vaping-special.html#post2345942

 

[JewelzBagz]

The resistor wattage doesn't matter. You can use the smallest resistor since LEDs don't use hardly any current at all.

If you have a volt-ohm meter, put the atomizer on the puck (remove the batteries) and measure the resistance across the two wires attached to the atomizer jack/connector. If it shows an open connection instead of 3 ohms or so then it is your atomizer connector soldered connection. If your volt/ohm metter shows 3. or so ohms, your problem is elsewhere.

You should be able to get the existing jack/connector out of your box. It may not be really easy but you should be able to force it out with the epoxy still on it. I have to do it myself sometimes.

If you are going for a new connector, after making the solder bridge connection on the jack, screw an atomizer on it and measure across the terminals of the jack with an volt/ohm meter. If you soldered the bridge across the jack correctly, you should see ~3 ohms or so. If it is showing no resistance or a open connection, your solder bridge is not working.

Let me know how it turns out

Ok, I assume you are meaning the two black wires that are soldered to the same lug? If that's the case, I am getting a reading of 03.2 . So that means my issue is elsewhere?

Here's some simple how-to's on using the meter Digitalciggz The Gift Of Vaping Special!

Thanks for that! Subscribing to it

 

[JewelzBagz]

Well I'm back again with more bad news. Since I had no idea how to fix failed puck #1, I decided to just start from scratch again and build puck #2. I followed the directions from the puck website this time. They were much easier to follow. This time around I had all the proper tools so the assembly went really smooth. My soldering skills have improved and all my joints came out nice and shiney. No problems with the solder bridge on the jack this time. I was really psyched. It looked nice, it went together smoothly, took a lot less time. I couldn't wait to fire her up. But that's not happening

I have no clue what I'm doing wrong. I'm really not an idiot. I can follow directions well. It just doesn't work and I have no idea why.

Is there a hospital for injured pucks?

 

[Stosh]

From your picture I can't be sure where the wires are connected in the control box, the lighting is a little off... but from what I can see the basics look to be correct. Simple thing to try would be to disconnect the led wire on one side, and see if you get a vape. Easy way to check the circuit with the batteries installed, clip one lead to the battery terminal in the lower right of the picture, with the meter on DCV - 20v range, touch the other lead to the other side of the battery, then the next battery, and the next, following the path along to the red wire on the master switch, the other side of the master switch....etc....you'll be following the same path as our friendly little electrons. When you hit a point where there is no voltage shown at all...AH HA... there's your problem!!!

p.s. one mistake I made on my first box mod was forgetting to turn on the master switch.....
took me a while to find that one...

 

[alanselo]

"Hospital...
for injured Pucks" and "...forgetting to turn on..." Now that's funny! I struggled through mine the entire way and almost started another. When the big moment finally came at 2 or 3 in the morning, it didn't work, boo hoo hoo! Just refused to do anything except give me a mouthful of juice, more than once mind you.

A Yuck Puck.

After a short nap and 10 hours at work, came home dragging. A couple more Yuck Pucks later and ... Lo and behold the ..... wait......yes... the master switch was... OFF! I am off and flying now. Push the button and the LED doesn't light up, boo hoo, but I went for another Yuck Puck and it works!

Hang in there, some say it's all about the journey. It is true, I learned a few things along the way. Good luck with it.

Here's mine (no LED..yet)

Thanks Puck and all you who share knowledge, info, guidance, struggles, successes, and funny stories.

 

[JewelzBagz]

LOL to yuck puck!

Ok I was sooooo hoping that disconnecting the led would do the trick. It didn't. I first disconnected the black wire. When that didn't work I also disconnected the resistor. No joy there either. So I soldered em back on. I tried taking some better pictures so maybe you could see any goof up.

I'm clueless when it comes to the multimeter, so I set it to this and hope it was the right thing to do! :

And when I did that, the readings I got are shown on the image:

Thanks for any help you can provide in figuring out my fiasco!

Oh yeah-I didn't forget to turn on the master switch. Wish it was that easy for me.

 

[alanselo]

I don't know much about electronics stuff, my disclaimer ya understand. With that....

From what I can see, closeup pic a bit blurry, connections on control box look right. I would expect the readings on the batteries should all be the same? They are different? Do you have good connections there? The other thing I would check is the push button switch, mine misses every so often. It wouldn't be inconceivable that is defective.

I can't help with the multimeter.

 

[Stosh]

You're doing great with the meter!!! 5.3v on the red wire is correct...now check for the same 5.3 on the other end of the red wire, then on the black wire side of the master switch, then on the black wire side of the push button, (push the button) and the other side.
All should be the same 5.3v or close to it, may drop a bit to 5.2v. 5.1v....now the trickery part, with the button pushed check the connector where the atty would touch it, again 5.3v.

 

[JewelzBagz]

You're doing great with the meter!!! 5.3v on the red wire is correct...now check for the same 5.3 on the other end of the red wire, then on the black wire side of the master switch, then on the black wire side of the push button, (push the button) and the other side.
All should be the same 5.3v or close to it, may drop a bit to 5.2v. 5.1v....now the trickery part, with the button pushed check the connector where the atty would touch it, again 5.3v.

OMG-thank you so so much for your help. All went well until I tested the red wire connected to the switch. The black wire was fine, but the red wire showed no reading. So I decided to go back and try the same test on failed puck #1. Same thing-no reading on the red wire. Does this mean I somehow bought 2 bad switches and didn't actually do anything wrong? That would make me feel a whole lot better - but piss me off! LOL

Can you tell I'm trying to make myself feel better? I'll hold off a little while longer on blaming the switch until I hear back from ya.

 

[Stosh]

OK we're making progress!!!!!! When you test the red wire on the switch, you have to be pushing the switch button, same as if you were takin' a vape. If there is still no reading with the button pushed, try punching the button a dozen times hard and fast to see if you can bring it to life.

If this doesn't do it, the switch is bad, time for a new one. If you have replace the switch be sure not to put too much heat on the switch terminals when you're soldering....too much heat can ruin components of all sorts, switches, leds, atty connectors, etc...
In which case check this...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/22122-how-solder-video.html#post352706,

Think of soldering like vaping, too little heat = no vapor, too much heat = burnt juice...
....

 

[Gristle]

Here is a simple block diagram of how the Puck circuit should be wired.


http://goo.gl/5OXVt

 

[JewelzBagz]

OK we're making progress!!!!!! When you test the red wire on the switch, you have to be pushing the switch button, same as if you were takin' a vape. If there is still no reading with the button pushed, try punching the button a dozen times hard and fast to see if you can bring it to life.

If this doesn't do it, the switch is bad, time for a new one. If you have replace the switch be sure not to put too much heat on the switch terminals when you're soldering....too much heat can ruin components of all sorts, switches, leds, atty connectors, etc...
In which case check this...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/22122-how-solder-video.html#post352706,

Think of soldering like vaping, too little heat = no vapor, too much heat = burnt juice...
....

OK I tried the switch punching on both pucks, and tested again and still no reading. So this means I need to replace both switches?

Here is a simple block diagram of how the Puck circuit should be wired.


http://goo.gl/5OXVt

Thanks for that, I see a discrepancy. In your diagram, it shows a red wire going from horn switch to master switch. I have a black wire as shown here in the instructions:

Does the color of the wire make a difference?

Thank you both for your help with this. I really appreciate it!

 

[Stosh]

color of the wire makes no difference, the copper carries the current, the covering is just window dressing...

to check the switches, take the batteries out and set the meter to resistance, it's the section of the dial
just below the DCV you've been using. Select 200 (just above the on/off switch) and put the leads on
either side of the switch, you should see the reading change to something like .002 with the button
pushed and just a 1 all the way to the left of the screen when you let go, (that's an open circuit)

If both switches don't check out properly, then most likely overheating disconnected inside and they
need to be replaced.

 

[Gristle]

...Does the color of the wire make a difference?

Thank you both for your help with this. I really appreciate it!

Color of the wire makes no difference, its the path that's important, or another way of looking at it, the order in which things are connected.

 

[TomCatt]

Just sayin'

 

[JewelzBagz]

color of the wire makes no difference, the copper carries the current, the covering is just window dressing...

to check the switches, take the batteries out and set the meter to resistance, it's the section of the dial
just below the DCV you've been using. Select 200 (just above the on/off switch) and put the leads on
either side of the switch, you should see the reading change to something like .002 with the button
pushed and just a 1 all the way to the left of the screen when you let go, (that's an open circuit)

If both switches don't check out properly, then most likely overheating disconnected inside and they
need to be replaced.

Mine are at 1 whether the button is pushed or not. Guess I'm going back to RS in the next few days.

Anyone got any tips on getting this JB Kwik loose without breaking the case?

 

[TomCatt]

Mine are at 1 whether the button is pushed or not. Guess I'm going back to RS in the next few days.

Anyone got any tips on getting this JB Kwik loose without breaking the case?

JB Kwik doesn't stick extremely well to smooth plastic surfaces. Just try prying lightly with a small flathead screwdriver to separate it from the batt case. Then, if you get it separated from the case, use a utility knife to cut through it at one point on the switch body and work it off the switch.