How to: Build the Puck
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My new dual coil cartos came in today. Been vaping this for hours and no drop offand yep its YUMMY!! Thanks to all of you for helping and thanks to Puck for making such a detailed tutorial that was so easy to follow! You guys are the best!
The part number is one digit off... it's 270-0411, not 270-411... look again, I found it in the battery box drawer, after they told me they didn't have any in stock.
I'd expect ~double the vape time for AA vs AAAs. The AAAs that I have (5 sets) are either 950 or 1000 mAh; AAs are around 2500 mAh, right? So at least double the vape time
Theoretically, yes, double the vape time... but for instance, my previous phone, on a 1350mAh battery lasted about 9 hours on a charge, but an 1850mAh lasted more than 24 hours... so you COULD actually almost triple your vape time with AAs instead.
You could try the ship to store from Radioshack's website just to make sure you can get some before they sell out again.
Up front, I am new so go easy on me. I like to toy with things (wood, computers, etc.) so I thought I would see if this could be something I could do. This is my first real mod thread to follow. Read the first one and now this one. But I noticed something and thought I might have a little input. Here it is...
Puck, I read in one of the threads that you could not add a liquid bottle due to the size of the AAA batt boxes. Have you thought about using a small test tube with a rubber stopper. A AAA battery is 10.5mm and you can get small test tubes at 10mm (should work). Now they are to long (75mm - 5ml), but you could cut them to your desired size and drill the rubber stoppers for your feeding tubes. Since a AAA batt is about 45mm you should be able to cut the test tube at 40mm and it would probably give you a 2 - 2.5ml juice holder...
Would that work - or am I out in left field???
I am just not sure about the rubber stopper... Just throwing out an idea that popped into my head...
Puck, I read in one of the threads that you could not add a liquid bottle due to the size of the AAA batt boxes. Have you thought about using a small test tube with a rubber stopper. A AAA battery is 10.5mm and you can get small test tubes at 10mm (should work). Now they are to long (75mm - 5ml), but you could cut them to your desired size and drill the rubber stoppers for your feeding tubes. Since a AAA batt is about 45mm you should be able to cut the test tube at 40mm and it would probably give you a 2 - 2.5ml juice holder...
Would that work - or am I out in left field???
I am just not sure about the rubber stopper... Just throwing out an idea that popped into my head...
Hi Semiretired and thanks for the input. What you suggested is fine and would work for a sort of bottom feed if you made the bottom smaller and used a different connector for a feeding tube thought the atty connector.
What I was refering to was I have small perfume pump bottles that hold about 4 ml. I use these to pump juice into the tip resevoir on a 510/901 tip through a small R/C fuel line between them. They are just a little too wide though to be able to close the cover when you put the bottle in the 4 AAA case (wider than an AAA battery). They are about the size of an AA battery.
So what I have done on the Puck I use daily is use use a 4AAA box for the batteries and a 2AA box for the atty, push button and pump bottle. This arrangement works great and I have been using it for 7 months now. The little perfume bottles pump a squirt into the tip juice resevoir where the polyfill material is and it's just like toping it off by dripping, except a lot faster. I still have the polyfill in the tip so it atty works as normal.
I could get the perfume bottle to fit into the 4AAA box if I cut out the back where the bottle would sit but that's a lot of work
I believe there are smaller bottles out there with a pump but... mine holds 4 ml and that is about enough for a little over a day for me so I need the 4ml.
Keep up the thinking process and always be looking for ways to help people. That's how great things are accomplished
I've been using 3AA battery boxes, 3 batteries in one side, and the 4th in the other, gives me 2AA sized slots for bottles, connectors, switches, leds, anything you want. The 3AA box is the same width as a 4AAA box so the results are about the same size in your hand with longer battery life...
Thanks for the remarks puck. I figure if I am going to try and feed off of ya'lls knowledge I can try input also. I have never seen a pump bottle at 10mm - that would be small (maybe a sampler somewhere, but the pump would be cheap quality...)...
I think I am going to try one of these and then go from there. Since I am primarily a wood hobbyist if I can make the plastic version work to my satisfaction then I will have to try a wood version - it is simple enough to make a box, but practicing with a plastic one since it takes less effort makes sense to me... And as you said - it would be a good camping backup. I slipped back to analogs a little on my last camping trip due to the lack of being able to keep batteries charged...
I think I am going to try one of these and then go from there. Since I am primarily a wood hobbyist if I can make the plastic version work to my satisfaction then I will have to try a wood version - it is simple enough to make a box, but practicing with a plastic one since it takes less effort makes sense to me... And as you said - it would be a good camping backup. I slipped back to analogs a little on my last camping trip due to the lack of being able to keep batteries charged...
I've been using 3AA battery boxes, 3 batteries in one side, and the 4th in the other, gives me 2AA sized slots for bottles, connectors, switches, leds, anything you want. The 3AA box is the same width as a 4AAA box so the results are about the same size in your hand with longer battery life...
I've looked at that configuration before and the only issue I have with it is I like all of my batteries in one box so I can just take the cover off, slap the batteries into my hand all in one shot and pop in the fresh set but that's just me
You do save some room width wise but it is still just as thick.
I had one version where I used a battery holder and it drove me nuts changing the batteries since they were so hard to get out. I then went with a snap connector and that was better for replacing a fresh "pack" of batteries but I still had to pop them out of the holder to charge them. I always come back to the original Puck box style.
The nice thing about wood is you can build any style or configuration you want. You are only limited by your imagination. I'm not so good with wood so I stick to plastic stuff but if I could do wood, I surely would (no pun here)
. Jump in here anytime you have an idea. That's how we all arrive at cool things, by feeding off of each other's suggestions and ideas
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Would a LR 510 Carto be fine on the puck? I'm not quite sure on what isn't safe with the difference. Currently have a DC Chrome tank 1.6 ohm. Flavor isn't the greatest.
What would you recommend for ohm range for flavor/vapor?
Read through a bit of this thread and in other places for a good answer, but didn't find anything and i'm kinda tired after building the puck and nicostick. Sorry if I missed the answer.
What would you recommend for ohm range for flavor/vapor?
Read through a bit of this thread and in other places for a good answer, but didn't find anything and i'm kinda tired after building the puck and nicostick. Sorry if I missed the answer.
Wow, this is sounds like the same exact dual coil chrome tank I'm using at this very minute. 1.6 ohm carto with a 3.5 ml tank. You can also get a 5 ml. I have a new puck design for this I call the "Puck Tanker"
. I'll post this in another thread soon after photos are taken and I get some time.The only problem with LR (1.6 ohms) is the batteries do not last that long since it makes it pull a tremendous amount of power. There are replacement dual coil cartos for this tank that come in 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 and 3 ohms. I am going to get some 2.5 and 3 ohm replacement dual coil cartos for this tank. 2.5 to 3 ohms is where the Puck mod works the best. You can run 2.0 ohm atties but the batteries only last 12 hours. At 3 ohms, you can get 24 hours of battery life and have great vapor production.
A lot of people think that at 3.0 ohms, atties don't produce as much vapor but that's not true. It's all about balance. For instance, at 3 ohms, a Puck will produce 4.8 volts and go down to 4 volts over 24 hours. With the 1.6 ohm carto tank, it is pulled down to 4.0 right from the start because of the heavy load. It drops pretty quickly from there (about a few hours because I vape very heavily). This means that at a higher ohms rating (3.0), you can sustain the higher voltage for longer periods of time which will produce more constant high vapor rate.
Those using lithium ion batteries are no better off. Their batteries will die sooner also using LR atties or carto. It's a power thing.
So to sum that up, 2.5 to 3.0 ohm is the ideal resistance value. That's what I'm buying next in a replacement tank carto.
As far as safe... NiMHs batteries are the safest batteries you could use since they will not explode. Lithium ion does if the protection circuit goes bad or someone uses unprotested batteries. NiMH does not have this problem.
As far as your carto tank not having much flavor... every now and then, pull the drip tip off and fill the carto from the top. It will hold a lot. You will be amazed at the flavor you get.
It's more flavor than I have gotten out of any atty or carto before.Hope this helped
I thought they could explode too. Bummer they come in higher strengths for the sizes. Yeah, that sounds like my new tank only the 5mltime one. I'll probably grab some cartos then since its a pain to switch out the part in the tank on a whim due to it being encased in juice.
That was much better response than I. Thanks a ton!
That was much better response than I. Thanks a ton!
One more question, what is the benefit of using a 1.6 ohm on 3.6v versus 3 ohm on a 5v. The difference ends up being the same. Does it generally still produce more vapor etc?
Not much difference really. The difference really comes in with your mah (millamps per hour) that the battery is able to supply. The bigger the mah, the longer your battery will last. It's all about power. I try and design all of my stuff to run about 7 watts of power which seems to be perfect for most people.
You can figure out power with this... W = V2 / R which means Power = voltage squared times resistance.
3.7x3.7=13.69/1.6 = 8.55 which is a bit higher than 7 but works ok.
5.0x5.0=25.00/3.0 = 8.33 which is a bit higher then 7 but works ok.
1.6 on 5 volts is up there and uses a lot of power. That's why the batteries get ate up faster. (only so much mah to go around). 5.0x5.0=25.00/1.6 = 15.63 watts. Tha't s a lot of power to use in an ecig. My batteries do not last long. That's why I'm going to 3 ohm tank cartos.
My 901 atties run about 3.2 ohms and the Nimhs I use run about 4.8 volts so 4.8x4.8=23.04/3.2=7.2 watts!!!!!, the perfect wattage and what makes the Puck work so well.
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I love this little box. Nice way to break into the mod scene. Now I am looking at other ways to work this simple design into other projects.
You will always be looking for something to put into the box as an addition now. Since I live out in the country and my Puck is always with me, I put a white LED pointing out of the case with a separate push button so I can also use it as a flashlight when needed. Dual purpose Puck
I have to wonder if the brand of battery would make a difference as far as the voltage dropping over time. This is a link to the Sanyo Eneloop specs
SANYO eneloop | Ready to use Rechargeable Battery - The only battery you will ever need
The graph looks good for the eneloops holding the voltage throughout most of the battery charge. It isn't until the end that there is a steep drop off. I would expect that under load this may drop a bit, but I also would expect it to still stay relatively flat until near the end.
The eneloop AA is only rated at 2000 mAh, while the AAA at 800 mAh. That's less then the more typical 2500 for an AA that is often seen with HiMh. But there is the equivalent with lithium batteries. The AW brand is often rated less then something like the trustfire. The AW 14500 IC protected is rated at 750 mAh while the trustfire protected is at 900 mAh, yet in the real world the AW clearly outperforms the higher mAh battery and last longer. It holds its voltage until near the end.
There could very well be something similar going on with NiHm. I certainly would stay away from the cheapest NiHm you can find as quality could very well make a difference a real world application, especially with e-cigs that can be a bit more demanding.
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