You can't go wrong with the Puck! I recommend it to all the new converts I know as their first build. Simple and safe, easy to source parts. I have built 3, the last 2 just for the Puck of it!
Salky
Salky
How to: Build the Puck
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Thanks, Puck... for the compliment and the Puck, itself. Still haven't had anything but enjoyment with this box mod. It built my confidence up enough to go a little deeper into the rabbit hole. I got some parts now to build more of a "nico-stick" type box, using a 14500, but the Puck will always be my first. (and very likely not my last)
pics of my second puck, it was a little more difficult soldering in that weenie little space.
Is that a "one deep" AA box? I'd like to try that next time around. (Sweet artwork, BTW. Where'd you get it??)
yeah, that's a one deep AA box, if you mean where'd i get the box i got it at the source store. and the artwork is actually from a box that my led zeppelin wallet came in, the blue stop sign shaped thing was a button for a mod box that was broken, it hides the screw hole that was there very well.
... it hides the screw hole that was there very well.
He said screw hole... heh heh heh
I am about to build my puck this weekend and I can't wait! What i am wondering is I have a 901 to 510 adapter can i just use this to use my 510 atty's or do i need a real 510 connector.
If you are using a 901 connector for the mod the adapter for your 510 should work fine so long as your cart/attys are a higher ohm.2.8 and up.I personally used a 510 connector in my puck mod as I do not have a 901 unit.
Yes, I use a 901 (battery) to 510 (atty) adapter on the "M-type Coaxial Power Jack RS# 274-1582" which I put in mine.
Notice the center pin in the RS power jack is split. You may want to stick a knife in the middle of it to spread it a little to make contact in the center hole of your adapter. Do that before you glue the power jack in. If you have a multimeter, put your adapter on the power jack and check the continuity from the corresponding tab at the bottom of the power jack to the center part on the 510 side of your adapter - again before you glue the power jack in.
One good thing about using the RS power jack is it has plenty of side area to glue it in. I used the QuikSteel mentioned in the instructions, great stuff, was at my wallymart in the automotive section, not hardware.
I used only a 100 ohm resistor (RS 271-1108, 5 pack), not 470 ohm, to the LED (RS 276-021 I believe I used). That will deliver around 25mA to the LED when using NiMH batts, which about right.
I'll say again - the T handle pipe reamer from Harbor Freight Tools, # 66936, around $3.50, is invaluable for this build. Good luck with it!
I used the instructions for the puck to make a 3 AA version. I was using a Smokeless Image cartomizer It worked great then stopped. The cart I was using no longer works on any battery. Did I just fry my cart? Is it too many volts for a SI cart? The puck works if I put another cart on it, I just don't want to ruin any more of them.
Just finished making my first puck(mini)(tanker) using a 4xAAA battery holder and 510 tankomizer. I stuck it all inside a 4xAA battery holder to conserve pocket space, kinda similar to the "half-sized puck", but without the button and LED, and with internal storage for the tank.
Thanks Puck!!
Thanks Puck!!
Good ECF friends just want your opinions planning to make my 1st puck mod:
3xAA 2200mah = 3.6v
vivi nova tank = 1.8ohms
i think i would be around 7.2?
3xAA 2200mah = 3.6v
vivi nova tank = 1.8ohms
i think i would be around 7.2?
Just my 2 cents, but I'd go for 4xAA (or 4xAAA) for the extra voltage. It's a nice warm vape.
I'm not sure why, but 4.x volts at around 3 ohms, seems better than 3.x volts at 1.8 ohms.
I'm not sure why, but 4.x volts at around 3 ohms, seems better than 3.x volts at 1.8 ohms.
im having problem looking for 3+ ohms cart or atty here and u think u can get 3ohms+ on a RA atty or tank(vivi nova)?
I get SLB 3 ohm attys from here They last well into months of use. On a RA atty, you should be able to make it about any resistance you need.
can you help me how to build a 3ohms+ on my RA atty? i have 32awg here? or any suggestions on what gauge i need?
Just picked up all my parts to make a 510 Puck. I know.. 510... yeah yeah... anyhoo... Nervously excited to get this thing put together!
I'll update as I go!
I'll update as I go!
OK. We'll call that a catastrophic failure. Not sure what I did wrong, but when i flipped the switch to test it, smoke came from the battery case. Opened it up, and the battery contacts had fried and pulled them selves tight.
Shorted out somewhere. I suspect the 510 connection. I dunno.
Bummer.
Shorted out somewhere. I suspect the 510 connection. I dunno.
Bummer.
I would go with 34 or even 36 gauge resistance wire (34 should work and be more robust than 36) for 3+ ohm coils.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.../320042-resistance-wire-kanthal-nichrome.html
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MadVapes has a pre-wired 510 connector
Prewired 510 Battery Connector, Sealed
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