How to find out what voltage the LT is regulating to without a Meter.

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prateus

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The voltages are approximate with this method, but were fairly spot on with a fully charged battery.

Hey guys,

i noticed this today, when my lavatube was putting weak vapor set to 5 v and at 6v not much better. i checked the batt and it was down to 2.8 volts.

-Now I was going to post this as a guide, and will still probably post it as a new thread but I found a great feature for the battery underload feature. P.S I think that the underload feature is a "Factory"QC feature in order to show that the boost circruit is working.

So I had to borrow my friends meter but It was fairly consistent.
First I was using a 1.8 ohm dripping atty made by vision.
Many ppl believe and even volcano falsely advertises that when an LR or too low of a carto/atty are or the LT that it brings it down to 3.7. In actuality, the LT reduces current to 2.5 amps,which means it is dependent on equiptment used.

So I took my dripping atty and liked it at 3, then 4, then 5, then 6. There was no disernible difference between 5 and 6. My 4v battery was showing 3.3 underload, I backed off at 4.9,4.8,4.7. 4.6 then 4.5. Underload was still 3.2/3.3. I put it down to 4.4 and voila it showed 3.4, I backed it down to 4.0 and it showed 3.8. I was able to keep it at 3.4 all the way up to 4.5, then it went to 3.3 again. So I was maxing out at 4.5. It produced a ton of Vapour. This showed the same thing with 1.5 dual coils. It showed 3.3 all they way down to 3.9. At 3.8 and lower the underload battery was 3.4 and higher.

People have been complaining about not knowing when it drops, by having a E2 error if you do not own a meter. I have found this to be an accurate way to get max watts using what ever your using. There is one guy here "Sad Society" who was saying his 1.5 DC were better at 5, then 4. The reason for this is that when you activate the button It initially fires at high volt setting and then bringing it down to 2.5 amps which may explain his viewpoint. I have also heard that as it uses PWM like the ego, It maybe be bouncing between set voltage, and max amps repeatedly.
 
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Sad Society

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I eventually have to agree with what they said. Using a 1.5DC, there is almost no difference when going above about 4.2.

There is one guy here who has an avatar where he looks EMO and Sad or Angry who was saying his 1.5 DC were better at 5, then 4. The reason for this is that when you activate the button It initially fires at high volt setting and then bringing it down to 2.5 amps which may explain his viewpoint.

I'm EMO? Sad? Angry?

I'm just a pitiful anonymous.
 

prateus

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Oh ok man, I meant no disrespect, and I will edit it to show your true name. I knew it was Sad something. I was a little drunk and just tried to describe what I remembered. But don't even say your a pitiful annonymous. That is what I was getting at. You are an important human being who has contributed to the joy of many peoples lives. Sorry just I hate when people put them selves down.

Anyways. I would reccomend you try some 2.5 dual coils. Another good setup is fluxomizers or visions. I can't belive the vapor I get out of them. I never liked DC because I only had ego's when I first tried them. I love my LT with a 2.5 ohm DC, but I find a ce2 deluxe with the middle ring removed is really good at 4.2.

Also try the vision dripping atties if you can they are great. I think I might grab some cisco 2.0 or 2.5 as well.
 

mjradik

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prateus.. your post doesn't make sence.. you say its a way to find out what voltate its running at with out a meter... but your using a meter.. I don't think its possible with out a meter. Maybe I'm not understading your post correctly.

But anyways... I own a lavatube.. and based on my tests, the LT drops the voltage far below the 2.5 amp limit. a 1.6 DC is 4volts at 2.5 amps, but the lava tube drops the volts down to 3.66 MAX. See this chart..

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlZnGjZRjO_UdGo3VVlnVHY0VExZLVd5aDkwUEJEZXc#gid=1

you say a 1.5DC can get to 3.4v on LT, but in reality, it should go to 3.8volts. Your 1.8 ohm atty should get to 4.5 volts, but your only getting 3.8.

Thats my gripe with the LT, it drops it too low.. For me, it won't let me use my 2.5 ohm above 4.9 volts, but I should be able to get to 6v.....
 

prateus

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Sorry I should be more clear. When I say 3.8volts I mean the Batterys Loaded voltage. press power button 7 times, hold fire button and your will get the loaded voltage of the BATTERY not the OUTPUT voltage. So what I mean is with a 1.8 ohm atty the BATTERY underload maxes out at 3.2/3.3 volts while outputting 4.5 volts so if If it's set 5V it will still only output 4.5 volts and the underload feature shows 3.2/3.3 volts on the BATTERY voltage, while the boosted voltage is still 4.5 volts.

So how to see the "voltage" is too set the voltage to the point where the Loaded battery voltage(holding fire button,while checking battery voltage) does not decrease. Then lower set voltage till the LOADED BATTERY voltage increases meaning there is less load on it and you will have the approximate max voltage. For instance my 1.8 ohm atty will not go past 4.5volt output. The fresh battery shows 4v then 3.2 volts underload(BATTERY UNDERLOAD VOLTAGE) not the output voltage, the output voltage stays at 4.5V.

Yes there is definetly some QC issues with the LT. Mine will put 3.9v on a dual coil 1.5 ohm. I have seen videos on youtube showing outputs between 3.2-4.1 for DC 1.5 cartos.

This is why I think the Battery underload feature is meant for QC at the factory level. They probably throw a 2.5 ohm on it and are told it should read under 3.3 when set to 6 volts. some might say 3.1 meaning there is more strain on those units, meaning higher output. A user in italy found the cut off to be 2.7 on his. Even lavatube.com says it's cut off is 2.67, I want to get a proper meter of my own and do further tests. I wonder if there is a volt meter that should show amperage instead of voltage.

I hope I explained better.
 

prateus

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Here is some info I just found. I do not own a meter I had brief access to one which is what my earliest post is based off of.

Using the same 1.8ohm atty. I set the voltage to 4.7 using a battery showing 4.0v unloaded(LT reading). It showed 3.4 underload. I turned it down then back up to 4.7. This time it showed 3.5 underload. Interesting to note is that the unloaded battery voltage had gone down to 3.9 at this point. I turned it up to 4.8. The battery showed 3.4 underload again. It did not matter how high I set the voltage anything about 4.8 was showing underload BATTERY voltage at 3.4 v.

NOW TO CLARIFY. The lavatube has a feature that shows you the voltage of the battery. This allows you to gauge how much time you have until your lavatube will need a freshly charged battery. 4.2 is full chargerd, 3.3 is when the LT should shut off. I will point out I have seen my LT go down to 2.8volts and still work although the vape was definetly weaker, which is what prompted me to check.

A less known feature is if you press power button 7 times, then fire the atomizer, and push power 1 more time. You will see the voltage of the battery underload. A boost circuit puts alot of strain on the battery which means the lower the voltage of the battery underload translates to a higher power output at atty connector as the boost circuits capacitors are full.



I hope this makes sense.

Feel free to ask questions and I will try to ask questions. To people who own meters try this out and post results so we can tell what the avg is between lavatube runs. My LT is 3rd or 4th production run. I am fairly certain it is 3rd. Red plastic power and back +- buttons.

Thank you for reading.
 

Sad Society

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Oh ok man, I meant no disrespect, and I will edit it to show your true name. I knew it was Sad something. I was a little drunk and just tried to describe what I remembered. But don't even say your a pitiful annonymous. That is what I was getting at. You are an important human being who has contributed to the joy of many peoples lives. Sorry just I hate when people put them selves down.

Anyways. I would reccomend you try some 2.5 dual coils. Another good setup is fluxomizers or visions. I can't belive the vapor I get out of them. I never liked DC because I only had ego's when I first tried them. I love my LT with a 2.5 ohm DC, but I find a ce2 deluxe with the middle ring removed is really good at 4.2.

Also try the vision dripping atties if you can they are great. I think I might grab some cisco 2.0 or 2.5 as well.

No disrespect taken. Did you think I was serious?

We live in a Sad Society, and also a Sarcastic one. Anyways, Thanks for all those suggested DC/fluxomizer combination setups. I really want to try them all to get the best out my LT.

One thing however, I have some Smoketech 2.5 DC's that I've tried with the LT, and I didn't like it. The carto gets too hot, which makes the metal drip tip too hot as well.
 

Dusty_D

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A less known feature is if you press power button 7 times, then fire the atomizer, and push power 1 more time. You will see the voltage of the battery underload. A boost circuit puts alot of strain on the battery which means the lower the voltage of the battery underload translates to a higher power output at atty connector as the boost circuits capacitors are full.

I did not know about this feature, but just tested it with mine and it works... amazing! One learns something new everyday! :)

Thank you for this..
 

DrOckW

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prateus.. your post doesn't make sence.. you say its a way to find out what voltate its running at with out a meter... but your using a meter.. I don't think its possible with out a meter. Maybe I'm not understading your post correctly.

But anyways... I own a lavatube.. and based on my tests, the LT drops the voltage far below the 2.5 amp limit. a 1.6 DC is 4volts at 2.5 amps, but the lava tube drops the volts down to 3.66 MAX. See this chart..

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlZnGjZRjO_UdGo3VVlnVHY0VExZLVd5aDkwUEJEZXc#gid=1

you say a 1.5DC can get to 3.4v on LT, but in reality, it should go to 3.8volts. Your 1.8 ohm atty should get to 4.5 volts, but your only getting 3.8.

Thats my gripe with the LT, it drops it too low.. For me, it won't let me use my 2.5 ohm above 4.9 volts, but I should be able to get to 6v.....

Bless that Shado I met him at a meetup out here... glad we have people rocking the research.
 

mjradik

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This is why I think the Battery underload feature is meant for QC at the factory level. They probably throw a 2.5 ohm on it and are told it should read under 3.3 when set to 6 volts. some might say 3.1 meaning there is more strain on those units, meaning higher output. A user in italy found the cut off to be 2.7 on his. Even lavatube.com says it's cut off is 2.67, I want to get a proper meter of my own and do further tests. I wonder if there is a volt meter that should show amperage instead of voltage.

I hope I explained better.

Yes you did, it makes perfect send now.. I dunno, maybe I have a defective LT? For me, it seems my LT is maxing out between 2.0 and 2.20 amps. My 2.5 ohm won't go above 4.9v, and my 3.0 ohm won't go above 5.6, and my 1.6 ohm won't go above 3.7. BUT my single coil 1.7 ohm will go to 4.1 on a freshy charged batt. (But wont get boosted, so if my batt is at 3.8V, it vapes at 3.8 etc..)

here my are my voltage tests using the unknown battery v load test you told us about. Unloaded 95% fresh batt at 4.0v right now. (and set to vape at 6.0v)

ohm........output v..... battery under load voltage
1.6 DC....3.71............3.5
1.7 SC....4.05............3.4
2.5 DC....4.9..............3.4
3.0 atty..5.6..............3.4

So what do these numbers mean?

Edit... Now that I know about this feature, been playing around with it more... looks like I can never see my underload voltage drop below 3.4. is that good or bad? I'll test some more when my battery starts to die... (shouldn't take long since my battery life sux..)
 
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mjradik

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ok.. my LT battery is down to 3.5v unloaded now.. (And if you notice its been about 2 hours since my last post, so I do think I have a sub-par battery) But here are my reposts of the voltage underload with weaker battery.

Unloaded batt at 3.5v right now. (and set to vape at 6.0v)

ohm........output v..... battery under load voltage
1.6 DC....3.38............3.1
1.7 SC....3.66............3.1
2.5 DC....4.5..............3.1
3.0 atty..5.2..............3.1

oh and btw, the procedure, 7 clicks, then fire-hold, then 1 more click doesn't work for me.. I just do fire-hold, then 7 clicks. Thats how I get underload voltage. (actually for my LT, 6 clicks get me batt voltage not 7... but don't see that as an issue)

I except about 1 more hour or less before my LT reports 2.8v and stops firing.. (it goes down to 3.3, which should be the lowest, but then jumps down to 2.8.. don't think it suposed to report that low)
 

prateus

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hmm strange about that last part i had a similar experience my batt shoed 3.4 or 3.5 in the cold as I walked home vaping, was fine. This is -10 northern ontario weather. So I get home, can't find my LT, remember it is in my coat. I take a hit and think waat why is it so weak? I check and it said 2.8 that scared me because I know it's not good to deplete these cells. I switch batts and it is fine.

My unit will go as low as 3.4 with fresh battery, then 3.3 with 3.9. i try not not to let it go under 3.6 or 3.5. I don't know what I think. I am pretty sure the atty I thought was 1.8 is more likely 1.9 or 2.0 as others with same atty report those numbers.

I am happy though, because like the Buzz pro. You have no exact voltage you just turn a wheel until it is a good vape. Everything I have vapes good on the Lt, Much better then on my ego. Seeing as I paid 65 canadian for a kit with two attys and two batts, with a charger. I think i got a good deal. Plus a year warranty. I am happy, even if the voltage is off a little, it gives me a ballpark.
This kind of bothered me I had a 4ml DCT on it. and I must have knocked it or something, but the top plastic cap was popped up a mm on the one side. I pushed it back down easily. But it kinda worries me. I know I have a warranty but would rather not use it. Although my buttons are stiff and not have much click other then the - and the fire button. My friends is perfect.

Also Pbusardos video is kickass in my opinion.

Also if your search google for vision lavatube, you can see theire version of the lavatube that is called the TOK. I wonder how it works. Most likely just copy cat LT electronics.
 

prateus

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Hey SS, Thanks for the info. I saw that awhile ago, and while it is cool, It seems kinda costly, when you add everything up. It was weird though, because it only popped up a bit but it looked like there was metal attached to it. Anyways I got a year warranty on mine and my buttons stick, so I may just send it in for warranty if anything actually breaks. I snapped it back on and it seems fine. ...... me off though. I made a big deal about getting a straight connector, and I did get one, but my buttons are not that clicky other then the - one. I got my buddy one, His is Perfect. None of that sticky white gummy .... on it either. LoL.
 

prateus

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On another note, I did not think that you could change the voltage while you were vaping, but apparently you can. Chime in and let us know if your REV. can. Also The Vision lavatube is being sold by one UK company as the hollister. It has two tubes. One for 18350, one for 18500, then you can but those two together, I guess one fits inside the other for a 18650.

But since you can change the voltage well, holding the fire button down. I noticed that I would set it at 3, then fire it and quickly move the voltage up. The sizzle would get louder until it would just kind of even out. So that is another approximate way of getting the highest watts from your LT.
 
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