I meant for attaching at the 510 connector, you mean the holes in the top cap are too tight to even attempt the #0-80? I thought that rod was small enough. You could use 16G hypo needles and a pin in there to hold the Kanthal, it is my favorite for my own built stuff. That and 1/16" heatshrink tubing is just right for a 2mm hole.
How to fix a leaking Line, Complete Disassembly and fix
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asdaq oh yeh that setup of yours is great my friend. i remember when you first showed it to me. it is even easier than wrapping around the post and tightening the screw. But both methods are good. Julio you should try what asdaq says. It should do the trick.
Dan also thanks for the How to. Leave it to you to step up to the plate. excellent pics and so easy a dummjy can do it lol.
also Van thanks for letting Dan post this. we are all happy campers.
The holes are too small for me to drill out and add a 0-80 insert. 0-80 threaded rod fits in there and there is room to add heat shrink. My problem is the bottom insulating the positive attaching it to the center pin. There is very little room in there
Simple cover the whole rod with heat shrink minus 1/8" at the end for the 510 connector, and 1/4" for the top connection. Bend a wire so it fits perfect and then bend the rod to match the wire. Use silicone in the 510 connector and press it in wet. So it is electrically and juice leak proof. For the neg connector, use a 0-80 1/2" screw and nut and push it in from the bottom and install the nut and cut the excess leaving 1/8" of threads. Then use a second nut to lock the wire for the neg post.
Dan
Added:
Example:
\Would be neat if you could tap the connector center post 0-80, so the threaded rod could be screwed in. No soldering
Dan
Added:
The center hole would have to be .047 for tapping, the maxmimal diameter for the threads are .0628
So if a 1/16 drill bit will not fit into the center pin, it could be tapped 0-80
I know there are some small hole center pins and some large hole center pins. Depends on the type you have. Of course you would only want to tap it 3/4 of the way through so you could tighten the center pin on the treaded rod.
Dan
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Thanks Dan u solved my problem. Question, should I machine a ss 510 connector for it? Then I can just run the threaded rod through the connector so it can be the positive so I wont have need soldering if a pin. Just a thought I could do the same with a regular 510 too
Well if the 510 center pin hole allows the SS rod in then I would just solder it. Else I would tap it, the center pin of the 510 can be removed and very easily tapped. Machining a SS connector is not as easy as it sounds, it can be done but with the existing 510 connectors available I think it would be more trouble than it is worth. You would need a 7mm x .5 pitch die and then turn it on a lathe for the correct dimensions to be pressed in. Then turn a center pin and tap it 0-80 (small stuff).
Dan
Dan
Where would I be able to find food safe silicone? I looked around at some local stores yesterday, but every tube of silicone I found cautioned about toxicity. My line is all ready to go back together, I just need to find the correct sealant.
What I did is got some food safe silicone.
Put a little on a Q-tip and coated the bevel on the inside of the clear tube. I did the bottom first and then slid it into the main bottom. I then did the top side to include the side wall of the main body and then pressed the insert back into place.
Where can I find this, and what exactly am I looking for? I found several types of silicone sealant, but every one of them sounded toxic.
DAP 100% is food safe when cured and at home depot/ lowes. Aquarium silicone from a pet store is good too.
Where can I find this, and what exactly am I looking for? I found several types of silicone sealant, but every one of them sounded toxic.
McMaster-Carr, there's a link in the Scubagen Mods somewhere but you can find it there if you look.
Robert
Messing with line today and I managed to get some screws in there not finished yet but I got em in
16 g tubing drilled to .052 and tapped to 0-80 went bigger on the drill size so I wouldn't brake 0-80 tap. Will update when put together.
not finished yet but I got em in
16 g tubing drilled to .052 and tapped to 0-80 went bigger on the drill size so I wouldn't brake 0-80 tap. Will update when put together.
Julio my man excellent and clean job. I wouldnt expect any less from you. i gotta do same.
Nice job. That is 16G tubing as in 16G needles? Didn't realize there is enough there to tap, much less drill and tap.
Yep , That is the stuff .065 OD .047 ID. My needles are all thinner walled and I can fit a 18G (.050) in a 16G which is about where you drilled it to. Impressive.
Opened up the hole where positive will sit both on bottom and top cap
Positive done
Just need some silicone and negative to be pressed in the top insert and she is done found some clear silicone here at work but its not food grade, wont it be ok when cured? Just wondering if not it has to wait till I get silicone.
Positive done
Just need some silicone and negative to be pressed in the top insert and she is done
found some clear silicone here at work but its not food grade, wont it be ok when cured? Just wondering if not it has to wait till I get silicone.I'd get some good stuff, measure twice cut once, and so on. You wouldn't want nasty flavoring from some extra chemicals or health worries. If you have Home Depot or Lowes close you can get DAP 100% there or aquarium silicone from a pet store.
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