How to fix a leaking Line, Complete Disassembly and fix

[Roxxette]

Well i manage to get the other plastic tube out by finakky destroying what was left of the 510 connection , a little plastic/silicone thing came down also but now i wonder how to get rid of these left;

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[BJ43]

Just use something to punch it out, like a drill bit, larger than the hole but smaller than the connecter.
If you look at Dan's first post it is just pressed in. Pull the plexi tube out first if it is still in there.
Your pics doesn't show if you removed the top cover using a quarter like Dan showed.

 

[BJ43]

If you don't want to take the top cover off, get a large sheet metal screw that will screw into the brass. It should bite into the brass enough that when put in a vice you can pry the connecter off.

 

[Roxxette]

pufff both the top cover and the what remains of the connector refuses to come off , the top cover doesnt move a bit i even grap it by the threads to push and did a little damage to the threads , what remains of the connector i dont know but i dont think these things are just pressed because theres no way with all the things i have done that it still be there lol not sure what to do now i have try everything in my mind

 

[JollyRogers]

That 510 connection can come out. May take a little grind and cut to get it or as BJ suggested. Once it is out, it can be replaced. The top should come out by using the top piece to grab the threads and something to pry it out a little at a time. Where are you located?

 

[Roxxette]

im in the caribbean bro , the top cover i have try everything man , the coin trick , straigh grabbing with a tool and pulling , with the cap piece in place and pulling but no luck i dont understand lol ; the 510 connection is the same i have even hammered the damm thing and it doesnt come out , try with a screw and it gets tigh but i pull and pull but nothing i just take the screw off with no connection

 

[JollyRogers]

oh wow This is not good because I know it is a matter of time before I break my 510 connection. It the weak point on my whole setup and eventually I will have to fix it. I have access to some things to do machine work, but not anything elaborate. I was going to offer help, but Caribbean is far (though nice).

 

[Roxxette]

Thanks man for your time but im not gonna bother with it anymore , have used several tools (dont know the names in english) but the thing got soldered or whatever is impossible to take out.

Thanks again and back to hunting for another line !


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[ambientech]

My 510 connector just broke also. I took it apart but it isn't easy. First I had to slit the 510 connector with a dremel then it would come out easily. Now getting the top piece out was the toughest for me. I had to hold the quarter whit vice grips and give it every thing I had moving around to keep it coming evenly. It is only pressed in but it takes some patience

 

[urquidezj]

I'm assuming v2 wasn't meant to be taken apart that sucks.

 

[ambientech]

I'm assuming v2 wasn't meant to be taken apart that sucks.

V1 and V2 are assembled the same so it makes no difference. I had to slit my 510 connector because it was broke off flush and there was nothing to grab. Those with proper tools and skill can get it apart....

 

[urquidezj]

Well then it shouldn't be hard to pull apart. I can seriously pull one apart really fast.

 

[Shead]

V1 and V2 must be different because I've just destroyed the edges of 2 quarters and a nickel trying to pry the top threads off. I have the same issue with my 510 threads sheering off >.< so I'm gona try and dremel part of the connector out and use a boge carto for a surrogate

 

[ambientech]

V1 and V2 must be different because I've just destroyed the edges of 2 quarters and a nickel trying to pry the top threads off. I have the same issue with my 510 threads sheering off >.< so I'm gona try and dremel part of the connector out and use a boge carto for a surrogate

I clamped the quarter in vise gripes, heated the line body up a little with a hair dryer. Not so much that I couldn't hold it but I did get it toasty and went after it. It is pressed in really good but if you pry it evenly it will come out.

 

[Youssefa]

Damn, I just sent my line back yesterday and now I find this.@#$@#%@#@$!%$@#%!

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[BJ43]

I have two Lines V2 one came with the new harder sliver posts on both posts and the other has the short post thinner and softer like the line V1. This short post is now shorting out to the casing. Little sparks down in the hole. Does anyone know what the sheathing tube is, size, and where to purchase?
I don't understand why it would spark if the short post is ground it should continue to work properly as the case is also ground, maybe the positive is also grounding when it heats up but it is not sparking in the positive hole.

 

[ambientech]

I have two Lines V2 one came with the new harder sliver posts on both posts and the other has the short post thinner and softer like the line V1. This short post is now shorting out to the casing. Little sparks down in the hole. Does anyone know what the sheathing tube is, size, and where to purchase?
I don't understand why it would spark if the short post is ground it should continue to work properly as the case is also ground, maybe the positive is also grounding when it heats up but it is not sparking in the positive hole.

Not sure that it really matters which is which but my V2 the short post is positive. I know that the tubing is some kind of medical grade shrink tube but what type or where to get I don't know.

 

[BJ43]

Not sure that it really matters which is which but my V2 the short post is positive. I know that the tubing is some kind of medical grade shrink tube but what type or where to get I don't know.

Just checked my short post is the positive.

Now to take it apart...

 

[ambientech]

Be patient and you will get it. Make sure you use a quarter and not a screwdriver. You need it to be softer than the SS otherwise you will mar the SS.

 

[BJ43]

Line #270 came with 2 wire post sizes, one thin soft wire on the short (+) post and thicker silver hard wire on the longer (-) post.