How to fix a leaking Line, Complete Disassembly and fix

[Gabe1291]

So any word yet on the replacement connectors? The silver wire burnt clean in half on my v2, and I'm kinda too broke to send it back to Del and Van for a refit. I have the capability to do a tear down on it here, but don't want to do that till I can source a connector for my baby in the even that I have breakage during the disassembly.

 

[SloHand]

Connectors, Wire, PTFE, Aquarium silicon. Done.

 

[Gabe1291]

Yes, but are those the ones that fit?

It was mentioned earlier that the standard 510 atty connectors were a bit on the loose side. BJ said he had a hard time finding a fit, and as much as I love my Line, I'm not going to half ... the repair and cludge a loose fitting connector into it with epoxy. If it was just one of the cheap china clones I would take the bearing press and force a CE2 connector in, but not on the nice toys....that just won't do.

I already have everything else I need around here for the repair from a small modding addiction. I already have the MV atty connectors laying about, the store is about a 45 min drive up the road from here....so I know it a bit too well for my bank account's comfort, lol

 

[SloHand]

Repaired two line V2's with this material. If anything the MadVape connectors were tight. Used a small size socket on the connector end and a block of wood on the other and pressure fit the connector that way in a vice. No leaks. New silver posts, new PTFE tubes through and through. NO EPOXY! Silicon. That's what was used in the original design. Have you taken it apart yet?

 

[Gabe1291]

No, I haven't ripped it apart yet, wanted to make sure I had the right connectors before I started the process. It may be a moot point, considering it may be a break free dis-assembly, but wanted to make sure the bases were covered first. Probably being a bit paranoid, but my Line is one of my few nice vape toys. Since the MV connectors will fit though, I'll probably attempt the tear down and rebuild this weekend.

 

[SloHand]

Word of caution is that I was unable to separate the top threaded portion from the body on one of the two Lines I repaired. I erred on the side of caution and left it intact. The only bummer was that this made the threading of the PTFE and Silver wire somewhat tedious but it can be done. I attached a picture (the only one I took ) of this repair. As you can see, it had a broken connector.

 

[BJ43]

Word of caution is that I was unable to separate the top threaded portion from the body on one of the two Lines I repaired. I erred on the side of caution and left it intact. The only bummer was that this made the threading of the PTFE and Silver wire somewhat tedious but it can be done. I attached a picture (the only one I took ) of this repair. As you can see, it had a broken connector.

View attachment 167991

The top piece is a PITA to get off, also gave up on one. If you use Dan's method with a long paper clip to help insert the PTFE first it makes it a lot easier to install the new posts without taking the top off. Still have one that is leaking that I have not been able to take apart. Ruined more quarters than it is worth and with all the DID and AGA clones it just isn't worth the trouble anymore.

 

[Gabe1291]

I'll go the clip route then, other than the threading, I dont have any reason to pop the top. Tank holds a seal fine with mine, it was just the (+) wire that burnt in half. It did make it a year though pushing 0.8 ohm coils at 5v's though, so she's seen a good share of heat and abuse. Up until this happened, it's been almost permanently attached to my HV PT, and I modded it to sink the Line down into it to protect the connector from stress, since I tend to drop the hell out of that PT.

 

[santo19586]

Lots of good info here

 

[BJ43]

On all my original Lines the positive was the short post and this aided in the post shorting to the sides, on all my rebuilds I have made the positive the longer post and allowed a little extra PTFE to stick out. No problem if the negative post shorts as the whole case is negative.

 

[Keeno]

Looks like I may be ordering some parts to attempt a fix my own V2.....melted insulators and a broken/melted terminal....great thread....thanks for all the information everyone.

 

[Crack3dOne]

Anyone got a good method for removing the rest of the 510 connector that has snapped off?

 

[SloHand]

If it's snapped off (like mine was) then just dig it out carefully. The original (gold colored) is fairly soft metal. You'll have to take your time not to damage the SS body.

I used a small file. Took a while, but once you have one side filed through it's pretty easy to dig out of there.

 

[Crack3dOne]

Awesome, Thanks slow hand. If I damage the outer body a little that’s not big deal. I can fix that. I just don't want to hurt the 510 insert so I get a good seal on the new connector.

 

[Koman]

If it's snapped off (like mine was) then just dig it out carefully. The original (gold colored) is fairly soft metal. You'll have to take your time not to damage the SS body.

I used a small file. Took a while, but once you have one side filed through it's pretty easy to dig out of there.

Great advice, thanks!

 

[smaldo]

just wondering if there is any difference between v1 and v2? i tried the methods here to either remove the connector or the insert and i think ill end up breaking it because it seems like it's stuck/glued

 

[Scubabatdan]

just wondering if there is any difference between v1 and v2? i tried the methods here to either remove the connector or the insert and i think ill end up breaking it because it seems like it's stuck/glued

Both V1 and V2 I have found it is easier to use a 8.6mm drill bit, it is undersize enough to leave a little brass that can be popped out. That is the fast way
Dan

 

[smaldo]

Both V1 and V2 I have found it is easier to use a 8.6mm drill bit, it is undersize enough to leave a little brass that can be popped out. That is the fast way
Dan

thanks dan but i am abit confused now. so we drill the connector to pop it out? wont it destroy it? if it's no trouble picture instruction will be really appreciated

 

[Scubabatdan]

thanks dan but i am abit confused now. so we drill the connector to pop it out? wont it destroy it? if it's no trouble picture instruction will be really appreciated

Most problems with the V1 and v2 are a broken connector, hence the drilling. If it is not broken then use a 510 to 901/801 adapter and screw it on tight, then put the adapter in a vise and gently wiggle it back and forth, the 510 connector will wiggle out. Then replace the bad part and reassemble.
Dan