How to Fix Stuff

[Bronze]

BATHROOM TIMER SWITCH

I walk by a bathroom and the fan is on. No one around. No idea how long the thing has been on. All I know is it is sucking the heat (or AC) out the roof for no good reason. Drives me nuts. Awhile ago I decided to put the fan switch on a timer. Not a big deal. I have attached a You Tube video on how they are installed. Black on black. White on white. Green on ground. Red on hot wire. Explains it all in the video. Once again, TURN THE POWER OFF at the breaker panel before working on anything electrical. Once you do it is 100% safe. Work on it to your heart's delight with no worries. I also attached a link for a timer.



Timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MREYEHL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[MikeE3]

Today, with the help of "Startpage" and "youtube" I am going to fix the RIO (Reverse Implement Operation) on a john Deere. I have my jumper wire made and have read and watched a bunch of videos, I think that I am ready to permanently be able to use the mower deck in reverse without having to become a contortionist.
For those who wonder, the RIO shuts off any implement when you put the tractor in reverse. There is an over ride switch but managing that and looking over my shoulder gets harder each year. I am going to eliminate the need for an over ride.

Do you have one of the newer models with a push button and only two wires connected to it? Or one of the older models with a bunch of wires going to the RIO button? Could you post the links that were helpful for you? Years back when I got my Deere, doing 'this' was one of the 1st things I thought about doing but when I saw a bunch of wires connected to the RIO button I dropped the idea.

You made me curious and I think for my model this is how it's done. But since I've put up with it for 20+ years now, doubtful I'll do 'the trick'.

 

[CMD-Ky]

Success! The trick is really very simple, proof is that it only took me twice as long to do it as it did the youtubers. None of the videos were as well done as they could have been. Most just talked about the job and showed poorly exposed videos of the finished outcome and not of the process of doing the job.

I have the lift switch on the right hand side of the machine and not the yellow push button switch on the left. I got a 14 gauge wire and two "spade" or "male" connectors and made a jumper of about three inches.

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

The thing with all of the wires going in is a connector box under the dash board visualized by lifting the hood. That will pull off with a few wiggles and some effort. Grab the black plastic box, not the wires and it will come off. Mine did not have any locks, just a simple slip on and off. The older the machine the more difficult the connector is to get off. When you get that connector off, you will see the side into which the wires go in and out. At the bottom, for lack of a better term, there is a yellow wire and a green wire side by side. These are the wires that control the RIO. Take your jumper and push the spades into the connector. These slide in next to the existing green and yellow "female" wire connectors on the smooth side of the connectors, push them all the way down. These, too, can be difficult with an older machine. It may take an effort. Push the connector box back on to the RIO switch, re-connect the battery. You are mowing forward and backward without the need to pull up that blinking switch.

It is rather easy to do and the minute you get that connector box off and turn it over then it will become clear. If when you get the connector apart, if you don't want to go any farther then you can slip it right back on without having harmed anything.

It was worth doing. I hope that I have helped.

Do you have one of the newer models with a push button and only two wires connected to it? Or one of the older models with a bunch of wires going to the RIO button? Could you post the links that were helpful for you? Years back when I got my Deere, doing 'this' was one of the 1st things I thought about doing but when I saw a bunch of wires connected to the RIO button I dropped the idea.

You made me curious and I think for my model this is how it's done. But since I've put up with it for 20+ years now, doubtful I'll do 'the trick'.

 

[Bronze]

Success! The trick is really very simple, proof is that it only took me twice as long to do it as it did the youtubers. None of the videos were as well done as they could have been. Most just talked about the job and showed poorly exposed videos of the finished outcome and not of the process of doing the job.

I have the lift switch on the right hand side of the machine and not the yellow push button switch on the left. I got a 14 gauge wire and two "spade" or "male" connectors and made a jumper of about three inches.

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

The thing with all of the wires going in is a connector box under the dash board visualized by lifting the hood. That will pull off with a few wiggles and some effort. Grab the black plastic box, not the wires and it will come off. Mine did not have any locks, just a simple slip on and off. The older the machine the more difficult the connector is to get off. When you get that connector off, you will see the side into which the wires go in and out. At the bottom, for lack of a better term, there is a yellow wire and a green wire side by side. These are the wires that control the RIO. Take your jumper and push the spades into the connector. These slide in next to the existing green and yellow "female" wire connectors on the smooth side of the connectors, push them all the way down. These, too, can be difficult with an older machine. It may take an effort. Push the connector box back on to the RIO switch, re-connect the battery. You are mowing forward and backward without the need to pull up that blinking switch.

It is rather easy to do and the minute you get that connector box off and turn it over then it will become clear. If when you get the connector apart, if you don't want to go any farther then you can slip it right back on without having harmed anything.

It was worth doing. I hope that I have helped.

I often find more than one You Tube video is needed to get the full picture. It's not often when only one video is comprehensive. And as you allude, some people are just really poor at doing videos.

Congrats on your modification!

 

[CMD-Ky]

I often find more than one You Tube video is needed to get the full picture. It's not often when only one video is comprehensive. And as you allude, some people are just really poor at doing videos.

Congrats on your modification!

They gave me the confidence to dig in and start. It was after I dug in that I found the confidence gained from the videos was misplaced. But it was so simple, I figured it out.

 

[rosesense]

@Bronze , how often did you say I should spray the Taurus around the foundation and in the yard?

 

[Bronze]

@Bronze , how often did you say I should spray the Taurus around the foundation and in the yard?

I don't know about the yard since I've never used it in the yard. You'll have to figure that out. If you don't see ants then I wouldn't do it. If you see ants returning then zap them again. Kind of common sense I guess. That Taurus will wash away at some point and the fire ants will return. When depends on a lot of factors. As for the foundation, that is subject to less "washing" so you should be able to go longer versus the yard. I do mine every six months but that will vary with each home. I happened to use Taurus underground along the outside as well as inside the block foundation that I access thru holes drilled in the blocks (sprayed from the crawl space). So I am very well protected and may not need to spray around the foundation often (if at all). Again, you will have to play it by eye. If you're seeing a resurgence of insects then do it again. You may want to consider applying the Taurus in the same way. It lasts a good 10+ years. I live in an area similar to you. Lots and lots of insects. Termites, ants, spiders, Wood's roaches, on and on. I have very few entering my house. Some 7-10 years ago I started getting tons of sugar ants and Wood roaches entering my home. That told me the Taurus that was applied when this home was built in 1997 had washed out. So a couple years ago I reapplied it and the sugar ants have basically disappeared and the Wood's roaches are few and far between. And of course the primary purpose of Taurus is to protect against termites (the most damaging of all insects in the south). I was just in my crawl a few days ago and there is zero sign of termites.

Perhaps I will dig up a couple videos showing how the subterranean application method is done. Like I say, it lasts 10+ years and protects your home from termites. It's as close to iron clad as it gets and why the professionals use it. And it's also effective on ants and other unwanted insects. It does not kill bees because the Taurus is underground. It is designed for subterranean creatures. I have a 60' x 40' house and it took me 16 labor hours to do it. And I wasn't exactly setting speed records at my age. Exterminator companies charge $1,000 - $2,000 depending on company and house.

 

[rosesense]

Thanks, Bronze. I won't be digging trenches at my age. I only saw a couple new ant hills pop up so wasn't sure if should just spray the new ones or do the whole place again.

Also, my daughter is having problems with roaches and centipedes in TN. I will give her some of mine to put down around the foundation. She pointed out that the label says the product is good for 2 years, I probably wouldn't use my bottle in that time so I will give her some of mine as opposed to her buying a bottle.

 

[Bronze]

Thanks, Bronze. I won't be digging trenches at my age. I only saw a couple new ant hills pop up so wasn't sure if should just spray the new ones or do the whole place again.

Also, my daughter is having problems with roaches and centipedes in TN. I will give her some of mine to put down around the foundation. She pointed out that the label says the product is good for 2 years, I probably wouldn't use my bottle in that time so I will give her some of mine as opposed to her buying a bottle.

I'd just go around once or twice a month and nail anything new.

 

[CMD-Ky]

+1 on the videos. I intend to give it a go when Fall comes.

EDIT: that is some costly stuff.

I don't know about the yard since I've never used it in the yard. You'll have to figure that out. If you don't see ants then I wouldn't do it. If you see ants returning then zap them again. Kind of common sense I guess. That Taurus will wash away at some point and the fire ants will return. When depends on a lot of factors. As for the foundation, that is subject to less "washing" so you should be able to go longer versus the yard. I do mine every six months but that will vary with each home. I happened to use Taurus underground along the outside as well as inside the block foundation that I access thru holes drilled in the blocks (sprayed from the crawl space). So I am very well protected and may not need to spray around the foundation often (if at all). Again, you will have to play it by eye. If you're seeing a resurgence of insects then do it again. You may want to consider applying the Taurus in the same way. It lasts a good 10+ years. I live in an area similar to you. Lots and lots of insects. Termites, ants, spiders, Wood's roaches, on and on. I have very few entering my house. Some 7-10 years ago I started getting tons of sugar ants and Wood roaches entering my home. That told me the Taurus that was applied when this home was built in 1997 had washed out. So a couple years ago I reapplied it and the sugar ants have basically disappeared and the Wood's roaches are few and far between. And of course the primary purpose of Taurus is to protect against termites (the most damaging of all insects in the south). I was just in my crawl a few days ago and there is zero sign of termites.

Perhaps I will dig up a couple videos showing how the subterranean application method is done. Like I say, it lasts 10+ years and protects your home from termites. It's as close to iron clad as it gets and why the professionals use it. And it's also effective on ants and other unwanted insects. It does not kill bees because the Taurus is underground. It is designed for subterranean creatures. I have a 60' x 40' house and it took me 16 labor hours to do it. And I wasn't exactly setting speed records at my age. Exterminator companies charge $1,000 - $2,000 depending on company and house.

 

[Bronze]

TERMITE/INSECT CONTROL

No insect can inflict more damage to your house than a termite. Some areas of the country are worse than others. The south is especially vulnerable. You're going along without a worry in the world and then one day while you're dragging something out of the crawl space you notice a bunch of your joists and studs are getting ate up. You got termites. You got lots of damage. You got big, big, big problems! Thankfully, over the past couple of decades, scientists came up with a very effective solution to keep termites out of your house. It's called Fipronil...a chemical that is odorless and undetectable by insects yet DEADLY! And what makes it even more hideous is it does not kill the insect immediately and it takes advantage of behavioral aspects of these unwanted menaces. Termites, ants, roaches and all kinds of subterranean insects are very social creatures. In other words, they really like each other and enjoy hanging around together giving one another spit baths and back massages. Another way to put it, they like to make their problems everyone's problems within the communities they live. Fipronil takes full advantage. The little buggers step in it but it doesn't kill them right away. They are given a little time to live. Enough to crawl back to their colony to share the poison with their friends. In a matter of a few days not only is that bugger dead but so is his entire colony. Bottom line: any creature who dares mess with Fipronil wont be around long enough to rue the day he stepped in it. And it is HIGHLY effective on all insects.

Fipronil once required a licensed exterminator to purchase and apply. That is no longer true. It is available for purchase in most (if not all) states now. It can be purchased on Amazon. There are two prominent brand names containing Fipronil. They are identical. One is called Termidor SC, the other Taurus SC. I have found Taurus SC to generally cost significantly less $$ but I suppose that fluctuates with time.

The most tried and true method the professionals used to apply this product requires some work. You dig a trench along the entire perimeter of your foundation and pour a diluted mixture of the product in the trench then backfill. The treatment lasts 10-15 years. Yes, years! The recommended trench is 6" x 6". I just went the width of a pickaxe and down 5-6". Be a little careful around pipes and the sort. Took me 16 labor hours and I take lots of breaks because I'm not 20 years old anymore. You can hire a pest control company but they'll charge you $1-2,000.

Here is a short video how to apply it and a link to the product I used. Calculate how much product you need before purchasing. It takes 3.2 oz of product for every 10-feet of foundation.

Video (watch a few of them, here's one):


Product: (shop around for the best price...it always changes)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DH4R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[CMD-Ky]

Thank you, October will be my Taurus month. dig a little pour, back fill. Rest and repeat.

TERMITE/INSECT CONTROL

No insect can inflict more damage to your house than a termite. Some areas of the country are worse than others. The south is especially vulnerable. You're going along without a worry in the world and then one day while you're dragging something out of the crawl space you notice a bunch of your joists and studs are getting ate up. You got termites. You got lots of damage. You got big, big, big problems! Thankfully, over the past couple of decades, scientists came up with a very effective solution to keep termites out of your house. It's called Fipronil...a chemical that is odorless and undetectable by insects yet DEADLY! And what makes it even more hideous is it does not kill the insect immediately and it takes advantage of behavioral aspects of these unwanted menaces. Termites, ants, roaches and all kinds of subterranean insects are very social creatures. In other words, they really like each other and enjoy hanging around together giving one another spit baths and back massages. Another way to put it, they like to make their problems everyone's problems within the communities they live. Fipronil takes full advantage. The little buggers step in it but it doesn't kill them right away. They are given a little time to live. Enough to crawl back to their colony to share the poison with their friends. In a matter of a few days not only is that bugger dead but so is his entire colony. Bottom line: any creature who dares mess with Fipronil wont be around long enough to rue the day he stepped in it. And it is HIGHLY effective on all insects.

Fipronil once required a licensed exterminator to purchase and apply. That is no longer true. It is available for purchase in most (if not all) states now. It can be purchased on Amazon. There are two prominent brand names containing Fipronil. They are identical. One is called Termidor SC, the other Taurus SC. I have found Taurus SC to generally cost significantly less $$ but I suppose that fluctuates with time.

The most tried and true method the professionals used to apply this product requires some work. You dig a trench along the entire perimeter of your foundation and pour a diluted mixture of the product in the trench then backfill. The treatment lasts 10-15 years. Yes, years! The recommended trench is 6" x 6". I just went the width of a pickaxe and down 5-6". Be a little careful around pipes and the sort. Took me 16 labor hours and I take lots of breaks because I'm not 20 years old anymore. You can hire a pest control company but they'll charge you $1-2,000.

Here is a short video how to apply it and a link to the product I used. Calculate how much product you need before purchasing. It takes 3.2 oz of product for every 10-feet of foundation.

Video (watch a few of them, here's one):


Product: (shop around for the best price...it always changes)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DH4R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[rob33]

I've been in my house over 20 years and in the past few years had some trees grow and now the leaves are filling the gutters. I'm at the age where I don't care to climb a ladder or get on the roof to clean them. I've had several estimates ranging from a mesh screen cover to a full replacement of my gutters with a gutter guard 2k to 7k. I can buy the mesh screen covers for $300-$400 and do it myself. Wondering if anyone have any experience with the mesh screen gutter cover and how do they do with a good snow or ice in the winter?

 

[kas122461]

I've been in my house over 20 years and in the past few years had some trees grow and now the leaves are filling the gutters. I'm at the age where I don't care to climb a ladder or get on the roof to clean them. I've had several estimates ranging from a mesh screen cover to a full replacement of my gutters with a gutter guard 2k to 7k. I can buy the mesh screen covers for $300-$400 and do it myself. Wondering if anyone have any experience with the mesh screen gutter cover and how do they do with a good snow or ice in the winter?

I have been considering the same thing. I have not done anything yet, because I have a few other projects to do first, but these are the ones I was looking at.

Gutter Guard by Gutterglove 4 ft. Stainless Steel 6 in. Micro-Mesh Gutter Guard (10-Pack)-THDX40 - The Home Depot

KAS

 

[Bronze]

Thank you, October will be my Taurus month. dig a little pour, back fill. Rest and repeat.

Perfect plan! Cooler weather so you don't overheat and lots n lots of breaks. An old man has got to know his limitations. If it takes you two weeks, so what! An hour or two a day. Don't need Mrs CMD running out there peeling you off the ground. Right?

I have a whole oak tree cut up that needs splittin'. October.

 

[Bronze]

I've been in my house over 20 years and in the past few years had some trees grow and now the leaves are filling the gutters. I'm at the age where I don't care to climb a ladder or get on the roof to clean them. I've had several estimates ranging from a mesh screen cover to a full replacement of my gutters with a gutter guard 2k to 7k. I can buy the mesh screen covers for $300-$400 and do it myself. Wondering if anyone have any experience with the mesh screen gutter cover and how do they do with a good snow or ice in the winter?

I have been considering the same thing. I have not done anything yet, because I have a few other projects to do first, but these are the ones I was looking at.

Gutter Guard by Gutterglove 4 ft. Stainless Steel 6 in. Micro-Mesh Gutter Guard (10-Pack)-THDX40 - The Home Depot

KAS

Ha! That's the same one I was considering about a month back. I'm in the same position as Rob. I live in the woods and them suckers are always clogged up. Tired of cleaning them.

BTW, speaking of ladders....
Werner Quick-Click Ladder Stabilizer-AC78 - The Home Depot
Peace of mind. The likes of the Mrs especially.

 

[rosesense]

I've been in my house over 20 years and in the past few years had some trees grow and now the leaves are filling the gutters. I'm at the age where I don't care to climb a ladder or get on the roof to clean them. I've had several estimates ranging from a mesh screen cover to a full replacement of my gutters with a gutter guard 2k to 7k. I can buy the mesh screen covers for $300-$400 and do it myself. Wondering if anyone have any experience with the mesh screen gutter cover and how do they do with a good snow or ice in the winter?

I had the guards on a house in WA and they were great. Can't speak to snow and ice because we didn't get a lot of it up there.

Or you can do like most of the houses around where I live and not have gutters lol. I couldn't believe it when I moved here but after hearing the price to install them, I opted to just leave it. Worst that happens is I get water dumped on my head while running to the car. I would get wet anyway so no big deal.

 

[Bronze]

I had the guards on a house in WA and they were great. Can't speak to snow and ice because we didn't get a lot of it up there.

Or you can do like most of the houses around where I live and not have gutters lol. I couldn't believe it when I moved here but after hearing the price to install them, I opted to just leave it. Worst that happens is I get water dumped on my head while running to the car. I would get wet anyway so no big deal.

Yeah, those installers rob you. There are many guards available to the DIYer but from what I can gather many of them are ineffective or just a pain in the ash can. The ones KAS linked appear to be one of the better choices that I found in my somewhat limited research. Perhaps KAS has more info to add.

 

[rosesense]

Yeah, those installers rob you. There are many guards available to the DIYer but from what I can gather many of them are ineffective or just a pain in the ash can. The ones KAS linked appear to be one of the better choices that I found in my somewhat limited research. Perhaps KAS has more info to add.

Don't think I was very clear in my post (imagine that). In WA state, I actually bought the gutter guards at Goodwill for around 5.00 and paid someone to install them. Wasn't expensive and worked great.

When I moved to GA, there were NO gutters or downspouts on this house. Apparently, most people don't install them. So I don't need the guards here since I have nothing to put them on lol. It costs too much to install gutters and downspouts here so I opted to leave them off.

 

[Bronze]

Don't think I was very clear in my post (imagine that). In WA state, I actually bought the gutter guards at Goodwill for around 5.00 and paid someone to install them. Wasn't expensive and worked great.

When I moved to GA, there were NO gutters or downspouts on this house. Apparently, most people don't install them. So I don't need the guards here since I have nothing to put them on lol. It costs too much to install gutters and downspouts here so I opted to leave them off.

Well, now that you bring it up, that is an option for people who cannot do the work themselves. They can purchase the guards like the ones KAS posted and hire a handydude to install them. It doesn't take long to put them up. I'm guessing it can be done in one day for the average house.