How to make a Micro-Gen... The smallest Genisis atomizer.

[jasl90]

Let me start by saying that this is simply how I build my Micro-Gen atomizers. It's based on the tools and supplies that are available to me. Please feel free to improvise as you see fit or as your own tools & supplies dictate.

Just a heads up, I do use some small power tools, including a hand drill, a small drill press, a Dremel tool and soldering iron. You can hurt yourself using any one of these items, so please, only attempt to follow these directions if you are comfortable using these types of tools. If you do decide to attempt to follow these directions, you are doing so at your own risk. I will not assume any responsibility for any type of injury that results from you following any part of these directions!

Q... What the hell is a Micro-Gen?
A... It's a really small genisis style dripping atomizer. It's about the size of a normal cartomizer.


I first described it in the thread... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/377820-micro-genesis-dripping-rba.html
Since then, a few people have asked me how it's made... So here goes...

Here are the supplies you'll need to make the atomizer itself... (You'll also need your choice of wick and wire)

Additional tools and supplies will be listed with the steps in which they are first used. This will allow you see how it's being used and determine for yourself weather of not you want to use the same items as me


The unit consists of 3 sections:
1) The base section & negative post
2) The positive post.
3) the body.

I'll start with the base section...

1) Disassemble the 808 to 510 adapter...


2) Fire up your soldering iron. You'll want to be sure to use a lead free, food safe solder.
I use a solder comprised of 96% tin & 4% silver (96SN-4AG), with a rosin core.
DO NOT USE SOLDER THAT CONTAINS LEAD!

3) You'll notice that the base of the adapter has two holes. You'll want to cover them both...
One can be covered with the IC Pin, the other with a blob of solder.

 

[jasl90]

... A set of "helping hands" is a good idea at this point...


4) Grip the adapter base in a jaw of the helping hands and position it so that one of the holes is at an angle that will allow to to cover it with solder.


5) Remove one of the IC Pins and grip in a set of hemostats or pliers so that it can be positioned over the remaining hole.


6) Solder it into place.

Notes about soldering: the base section has a lot of "thermal mass". This means that you'll want to use use a soldering iron with at least 40 watts of power, minimum, preferably 60 watts or better and a larger chisel tip. My personal iron is a Hakko FX-888 and it does the job easily.

7) When done, it should look something like this...


8) Be sure to clean up any flux residue using alcohol, followed by soap and water. Flux resin is a nasty stuff. You don't want ingest it or vape it.

 

[jasl90]

Next step up is the positive post...

1) Because I'm using a brass screw and because there are always concerns about small amounts of lead in brass, I start by using an old brewers trick to remover any surface lead that may be present on the brass.

I mix 2 parts white vinegar with 1 part hydrogen peroxide and soak the brass parts until they are a golden yellow.

Here is more info... http://brewingrabble.com/resources/surface-lead.htm


... and a before & after shot... (The after is on the left...)


2) The next step is to cut or grind off the barb from the positive connection...


It should look something like this...

 

[jasl90]

3) The screw can now be soldered into the positive contact. Simply insert the screw through the bottom of the contact and solder into place.


4) As an optional step, I like to sand the bottom to make sure everything is flush to prevent the screw from scratching the positive terminal of my PV.


5) the last step in making the positive post is to creat a "nut stop" in the screw. I do this by measuring down 4mm from the end of the screw and deforming the threads with a set of wire cutters. Be careful not to damage the screw itself. It only takes a small deformation to do the job.


The base unit can now be assembled... Simply put the original silicone insulator back into the base and inset the positive post. It should look something like this...

 

[jasl90]

The last item on the list is the body.

1) Start by taking gutting out an 808 cartomizer. Just get in the and clean it out...


2) Pull out the positive connection and insulator...


3) Use a 5/16th drill bit to cut away the base section, being VERY CAREFUL to leave the threads undamaged.

I like to wrap the carto in tape so that I can grip it with pliers without stuffing the surface of the tube...


A needle file can be used to remove any burrs or rough edges...

The end result should look like this...


Notice that the threads are not damaged at all...

 

[t.d]

awesome job!

maybe I can use this as a base for the tube and connector.
CE2-style-DCT-tank-cartomizers

 

[jasl90]

4) Now I want to grind away the air slots on the bottom so it nice and smooth.
I'll do this by chucking into my drill and taking it through a 3 step process...

1 - Remove the bulk of the material with a Dremel and a carbon cutoff wheel... 2 - Followed by 200 grit sandpaper... 3 - Followed by 600 grit sandpaper...

The start, before any grinding...


After the carbon cutoff wheel...


After the 200 grit sandpaper...


After the 600 grit sandpaper...


Only two more steps left... Cutting the tube to size and drilling the air hole...

 

[jasl90]

5) Mark the tube for cutoff and air hole...
(Yea... I cheated and used a base that already has a wick and coil for measuring purposes)
(Wicks and coils will have to be demo'd on another day. It's getting late... Sorry...)


6) Drill the air hole... I like a pretty airy draw, so I'm using a 1/16th bit 1.5mm (ish)
To keep the bit from bouncing all over the place, I cut a groove in a block of wood and drilled a guide hole in it...

 

[jasl90]

7) Shortening the tube is completely optional. Personally, I like my Micro-Gens to be... well... micro...
To do this I simply use a small pipe cutter...



8) Unfortunately, step 7 will result in the top of the tube being sharp and pinched in, making it impossible to get a drip tip in... So, if you do step 7, keep reading...

9) To remove the pinch, wrap the body in tape and chuck it back in the drill. Take a pair of needle nose pliers (use a cheap, crappy pair you don't care about. This will scuff em up a bit) and insert them into the open end of the body.
With the drill spinning, press the pliers into the opening, forcing it open up enough to insert a drip tip...

 

[jasl90]

10) The edge will still be rough and sharp. Repeat the "3 step process" from step #4 to grind it down a little a polish it up...

Before...


After...


If you followed these directions, you now the proud owner of your very own Micro-Gen, genisis style, dripping atomizer. All it needs now is a wick and coil.

Unfortunately I don't have time tonight to get into that piece of it but I will cover it within the next few days. In the mean time, I have several wick and coil pics in this thread... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/377820-micro-genesis-dripping-rba.html

Enjoy!

 

[northhar]

Nice design. I like the tutorial, it is well done.. I'll have to give this a try .. Just need the time..
Thanks for posting..

 

[TheRem]

Great tutorial. Thanks!

 

[jasl90]

Nice design. I like the tutorial, it is well done.. I'll have to give this a try .. Just need the time..
Thanks for posting..

Great tutorial. Thanks!

Thanks guys!
I'll add the how to wick & coil it as soon as I'm able. Grinding hollow ceramics could be a tutorial all on its own... So I'll probably start with SS mesh. That's pretty easy & straight forward.

If you decide to build one, please be sure to add pics.

 

[mre777]

Nice tutorial, very well done.

 

[WillyB]

Very nicely done.

There are many tips here that can be be used for other projects also.

 

[eHuman]

That and a custom 14500 IMR mod becomes the standard of ridiculously small stealth vaping.

 

[asdaq]

Very slick dripper and great tips in the tutorial too, particularly using the 510-801 adapter for the threading base and re-rounding the cut carto tube. A SS screw could be used too in much the same way, just wrap a single strand of copper in the threads to give the solder something to bond to.

 

[jasl90]

Very slick dripper and great tips in the tutorial too, particularly using the 510-801 adapter for the threading base and re-rounding the cut carto tube. A SS screw could be used too in much the same way, just wrap a single strand of copper in the threads to give the solder something to bond to.

I actually tried the single coper strand with the coper screw. The screw and connector have so much mass that by the time they are hot enough to wet, the copper strand is completely oxidized and wouldn't wet itself. I only tried it once so I'm in no position to say it won't work... Perhaps with a higher temp on the iron and a larger tip. Unfortunately all of my 3mm+ tips have been used with leaded solder... I try not to mix...

If I were to use a SS screw, I'd probably just fill the hole completely, then drill and tap it for the screw size... Come to think of it, that wouldn't be a bad idea with the brass screw either. It would keep solder off the exposed screw altogether.

 

[jasl90]

That and a custom 14500 IMR mod becomes the standard of ridiculously small stealth vaping.

I like it... In fact I still have a couple single AA flashlights from the days when I was trying to mod w ego boards. They actually hold a 14650 once they're gutted. Ideas for a bottom switch?

 

[asdaq]

Tin the wrapped screw first, then insert and heat the positive connector from the outside to get the solder to reflow, most likely from the bottom. A 60W iron can melt those positve connectors, so I wouldn't over do it. I'm not sure what the flashlights look like but I saw a Chi-Chi switch assembly can be had for 3 or 4 bucks. That's close to the bottom. Side by side could be even stealthier....