Selfmade "Big" Genisis Style Atomizer HowTo

Status
Not open for further replies.

Quigsworth

Just some guy...
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2011
2,943
5,784
The Republic of Cascadia
...somehow it's a shame there needs to be a 2nd negative screw though.

I'm curious about the dual coil/wick setup. You'll have to do another with a single wick to give a comparison. :)

I like the idea of the single neg connection as well, if only for symmetrical aesthetics :blush:...I was making some 1.8 coils for my Ody last night, using the Imeo method of splicing non-res wire to kanthal (works good, no hot spots at the splice)...I could always create a nice tight 1 cm or so wrap of non-res in the middle of the kanthal piece and lay that in the neg post conn, easy enough to do...I think I'm going to go with the single neg, I can always drill/tap for duals later...

as far is the single wick test, it should just be a matter of wrapping just one wick with 1.5 - 1.8 and just leave the other wick dangle in the juice and giving it a whirl, thing is, I've always been one of those guys where if one works good, two can only be better, not sure my batts would agree though :p

You guys have been around the mod block a hell of a lot longer than I have, has this dual/dual config not been done before?
 

Quigsworth

Just some guy...
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2011
2,943
5,784
The Republic of Cascadia
Agreed, insulators are not a requirement... As long as your oxidation is right, you would be good. However, with your double wicks, chance of not properly oxidized and/or a short to the wick goes up, so I suggested it...

Isn't that always the way, double your pleasure, double your risk...I can see this wick oxidation process being a pretty steep learning curve...If it became an issue I could always slightly over bore my wick holes then coat with high temp epoxy or line with ceramic sleeving...but I don't want this to become too complex a build or add materials that will take away from why guys go with SS wick in the first place...no combustables, but I definitely appreciate the thought food:toast:

So now starts the part I hate...gathering materials...
 
Last edited:

asdaq

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 23, 2010
4,570
1,845
poland, and the brassy lands of google
Aww, the hunting part is fun, you just don't want to be too greedy. :)

The ScubagenV3 got it's wick split and dual coils installed, but I don't recall rave reviews.. I've got the '640k ought to be enough for anybody' thing stuck in my head, but my, what a lovely 640k it is. Otherwise I skipped CE2's and DC completely, and haven't changed the recipe much. I'm tempted to give a Willpro-ish a try, but then I've a mod to finish and am getting tired of doing atties.

edit: Yes the orion too, I think it was pailpoe and he and his thread(s) aren't here any more. :(
 

BJ43

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 27, 2008
5,896
7,212
82
I tried a double wick on one of my Cheap lines and didn't see any advantage just more work setting it up. Two coils didn't vape more than one 8 wrap coil. I normally use a large SS wick over 2mm and it works very good at 2.8/3 ohms at 4.5 to 5.5V. You may get better results with two, others have tried it, but don't know of anyone who has really stayed with it.
 

Quigsworth

Just some guy...
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2011
2,943
5,784
The Republic of Cascadia
I tried a double wick on one of my Cheap lines and didn't see any advantage just more work setting it up. Two coils didn't vape more than one 8 wrap coil. I normally use a large SS wick over 2mm and it works very good at 2.8/3 ohms at 4.5 to 5.5V. You may get better results with two, others have tried it, but don't know of anyone who has really stayed with it.

Thanks BJ, you reminded me of yet another question I was going to ask...wick diameter as well as mesh size...sounds like you guys know your set-ups...I dyi my own juice to anywhere between 27% - 30% VG, and I personally like a TH that borders on painful...I'm probably wrong here (usually am)...the thinner the juice the finer the mesh?...bigger diameter wick = more surface area = more juice wicked?

also, I'm building this dual/dual, even if you all say it's a crappy waste of time (and it most likely will be, lol)...but at least I can join in with you guys when the next yahoo chimes in with his/her dual wick genisis type atty:D...the only way I learn is when I make a dogs breakfast out of something, become the subject of ridicule then go with the time honoured method I was told about in the beginning...my dad has seen 47 years of this behaviour from me:p:p:laugh:
 
Last edited:

asdaq

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 23, 2010
4,570
1,845
poland, and the brassy lands of google
Hey Quigs, if you go with a air inlet in the top and get rid of the ridge on the bottom cap and have the tolerances right, then you can service it by pressing the assembly up and exposing it from the tube, much easier than in the tube. If there is a side inlet then it wouldn't really work with juice in the tank. This might be something I missed about the Willpro and whichever other similar designs.

I've got the silicone drying on something Willpro-ish (I know, I'm truly sorry) and everything is tight in place. Pre-winding the coil helps but still I need mosquito tweezers in both hands and a vice. Just sliding up would be grand. :)
 

Quigsworth

Just some guy...
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2011
2,943
5,784
The Republic of Cascadia
Hey asdaq, I made the drawing as my computer desk top image and I'm starring at it and had the same thought, I noticed that the non flanged bottom is a re occurring theme on these things and now I know why. I will be going with the top down air intake. I've been checking out your syringe mods and I'm going to build one just to get the concept a little better...so you don't get any heat transfer down the wick to the rubber plunger end cap?

Sent via carrier pigeon
 

perlionsmitnick

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 14, 2010
459
135
TX
I'm not going to get in to the argument of what material to use and what not to use...use whatever you want...but I would like to say that I have been using brass rods in my attys for almost two years now..and I have yet to see it change the color or flavor of the liquid. In fact...I have some that have been tossed aside that have been soaking just as long and they havent changed either. If my liquid/brass would start changing color or tasting bad... I would be more concerned about what is in the liquid that I'm vaping is causing this to happen...so far I know my nicotine, PG/VG and flavorings dont do it...but I mix my own too.

I would really like to see evidence of this other that one pic of one persons liquid...what liquid was it...what type of brass...what were the conditions...and so on. Then comes the issue with the possible lead content of the brass. The two rods I have in my atty have about 1/4 square inch total surface area....even with the total coverage of lead at 3-7% of that 1/4" we are talking a pinhead size on the surface...but its not even that since the lead is actually in little globules within the brass. Brewers have been using copper and brass for a long time...heres how they deal with it... Removing surface lead from brass

Regarding brass we encounter this in our industry. When some of the earlier compressors that used brass bearings would run low on freon, air and moisture could be sucked into the system causing 'ACID' to break down the bearing and create a green slime in the refrigerant and mineral oil.

The first generation of Copeland scroll compressors, which Rheem/Ruud used predominantly, were the real green slimers. One of the issues was a brass bearing that rapidly corroded when the system ran with a leak in the low side and moisture entered the system. The acids that formed just ate away that bearing, along with the white mineral oil just made a gooey, slimy, gross green mess inside of the systems.
 

nicotime

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 22, 2009
1,951
862
Montoursville, PA
Regarding brass we encounter this in our industry. When some of the earlier compressors that used brass bearings would run low on freon, air and moisture could be sucked into the system causing 'ACID' to break down the bearing and create a green slime in the refrigerant and mineral oil.

The first generation of Copeland scroll compressors, which Rheem/Ruud used predominantly, were the real green slimers. One of the issues was a brass bearing that rapidly corroded when the system ran with a leak in the low side and moisture entered the system. The acids that formed just ate away that bearing, along with the white mineral oil just made a gooey, slimy, gross green mess inside of the systems.

No doubt..Freon has both chlorine and fluorine in it ...both very strong oxidizers...then you get the air leaking in to the mix to supply the oxygen to complete the corrosive attack on the brass....and aluminum....and on top of that the mineral oil is also a petroleum distillate.

Your not planning to mod your compressor are you perlion?? LOL
 

Quigsworth

Just some guy...
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2011
2,943
5,784
The Republic of Cascadia
I think that is iuseaspork's. I use aluminum for the intermediate piece. Syringe needles, thas me. :)

I stand corrected...so, had a real good gathering day...all within a 1/2 drive of my house...6 inches of 3/4" brass rod and various sizes of brass tube (all 0.0% lead...that'll make the rod real fun in the lathe, hello cutting oil:unsure:). I also got about 4 sq ft of 325 SS mesh (the guy just gave it to me!)...he could get 400 but he had to order it in, I figured wth, try the 325...I already have the polytube, a complete "o" ring set, kanthal, tap/die set, machine screws...I guess all I need now is some lead-free solder paste and??? am I forgetting anything?...damn, if the lathe was in my shop I could start spinning this up tonight...
 

Quigsworth

Just some guy...
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2011
2,943
5,784
The Republic of Cascadia
Twin coil 17670 Orion Vapour Production - YouTube is a video of "ScrewDriver" doing it. I think pailpoe and Otrem may have done one also... I have never had the desire to even try dual coil on a genisis myself... But it "has" been done.

So I just watched that you-tube link Jolly...woh!...my lungs aren't looking forward to this at all:unsure:...again, I just want to build this to...well, just to build it...same reason why me and my buddies dropped a 302 into my Datsun 510 (ah, squandered youth...)
 

iuseaspork

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 2, 2011
245
76
50
ohio
Uh oh... The spork is inspired:

IMG_20120418_165131.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread