Selfmade "Big" Genisis Style Atomizer HowTo

[nicotime]

I agree Quigs and derJuF...and it sounds like a parallel to the plastic tubes on tanks...different liquids work on them in various ways. Isnt the banana juice one of those that induce cracks in tubes...I dunno..I dont follow the plastic tube tanks that close? And yeah the coloring...thats why I like to DIY so I can minimize the poisons that go in my juice....and I wouldnt be afraid to list the ingredients...unlike most pre-mades!!

Thanks for your input.

You communicate just fine derJuF! I forgot all about the acetic acid in the hardware store silicone...and I think I read some have ammonia I believe....but thats also shows that there are other components to consider in the mix also.

Again...sorry about messing your thread up.

Yes Deadite...you could coat the brass with silver solder...silicone...teflon or whatever....lots of ways around it for sure.

I think I'll just stick with cleaning with the acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide for the little bit I have in mine.

 

[Quigsworth]

Ok, I'm taking the plunge and building one of these (out of brass, enough already with the brass...). I've got access to a metal lathe so that either simplifies or complicates things, remains to be seen, however I have a couple questions...supply air? how are you guys doing this?...seems on Juergen's mod the pos terminal/air tube/structural link between lower and mid layers is impeded by the pos wire and maybe some shrink wrap...is this the case?...and in staring at Nico's...well, same question?

Tube question and heat off coil...Nico's using technical glass, looks like Juergen's using thick wall polycarb...???...I'm going with the SS mesh wick (2x actually, with a 3 ohm wrap on each) which is why the heat issue is foremost in my prelim. design.

I'm mocking this up in Sketch-up atm and I need this info (especially the air supply) before I can toss up any pics for you guys to comment on...thanks tons in advance.

Edit:...actually, here's what I'm working off atm just to give you an idea...



If any of you guys are down with Sketch-up I'll PM the .skb file to anyone that wants it (if it works) or just delete it if it's another one of my epic failures

 

[iuseaspork]

Nice! Can't wait to see how a dual coil, dual wick SS mod works!

 

[Quigsworth]

Nice! Can't wait to see how a dual coil, dual wick SS mod works!

Ya, same here, lol...

btw, Juergen, I really don't mean this as a thread hijack, I just thought that if I'm so shamelessly going to rip off your design I should at least have it under your flag

 

[slimest]

Just for info: silver is not neutral metall for us. It is a heavy metall, as Pb etc.

 

[nicotime]

Hey Quigs...I dont use a 510 connector anymore so I dont have to have an air tube coming from the bottom. I just run a teflon tube down from the top along with the Pyrex mouthpiece tube. Even if you use a screw on connector you can still eliminate the air tube thru the atty design if you want. As long as the intake tube is smaller than the MP tube to give the chamber that negative pressure when you take a drag...you will get plenty of turbulence to fan the coil. If you make them the same size or a bigger air intake...the air will just come in one tube and out the other.

 

[WillyB]

...seems on Juergen's mod the pos terminal/air tube/structural link between lower and mid layers is impeded by the pos wire and maybe some shrink wrap...is this the case?...and in staring at Nico's...well, same question?

Tube question and heat off coil...Nico's using technical glass, looks like Juergen's using thick wall polycarb...???...I'm going with the SS mesh wick (2x actually, with a 3 ohm wrap on each) which is why the heat issue is foremost in my prelim. design.

I'm mocking this up in Sketch-up atm and I need this info (especially the air supply) before I can toss up any pics for you guys to comment on...thanks tons in advance.

Edit:...actually, here's what I'm working off atm just to give you an idea...

View attachment 77312

You are over thinking it, these aren't CE2s that need air from the bottom. A simple side hole in the top cap even with the coil or a drop tube from the top as Nico and Juergen are doing. No need to take a basic design that works well and over complicate it like that one American designed abomination.

Your drawing looks pretty much like Michel.Jansto's design.

It addressed many problems of earlier designs. No more wires running through the liquid, with the associated sealing problems, and no more relying on the tubing for any support. It only needed one positive wire now.

Neat, clean, simple and effective.

Here's Zen's.

 

[Quigsworth]

You are over thinking it, these aren't CE2s that need air from the bottom. A simple side hole in the top cap even with the coil or a drop tube from the top as Nico and Juergen are doing. No need to take a basic design that works well and over complicate it like that one American designed abomination.

Your drawing looks pretty much like Michel.Jansto's design.

There you go, (no need to tell me twice Willy, I'm a firm believer in the KISS theory I haven't seen that design...I tried doing a google image search, with mixed results...

I was thinking side holes as well, seeing as I plan on (or at least try) to do a dual coil/dual wick set up I wanted to place the air "intakes" if you will so that there was a forced/aimed air flow in and around the coils as much as possible upon negative air created by my draw...and side holes would fill that need perfectly (in theory). By which, a lot of powering/connector options open up (re: Nico's model)

My model has been done in such a way that all the parts are separate components and can be removed out of the drawing for visual clarity, as well as dimensions have been added if I decide to just throw the drawing over to an "actual Machinist" and have them cut out of SS...looks like tonight's Sketch-up time will be a little more meaningful...thanks for the ideas guys

 

[asdaq]

+1 on the side air inlet(s), and most definitely nico's sizing recommendations. Also I highly recommend positioning the side inlet low so that it hits the bottom of the coil first and collects all the vapor. Quigs, with your design how are you going to do the kanthal connections?

As for brass, I will stay out of the kerfuffle, I'm quite partial to it.

 

[Quigsworth]

Working on that as I post this...I've watched you tube vids on guys making/quench oxidizing/wrapping coil on these wicks..."seems" pretty straight forward, however the dual/dual posed a challenge till I thought about wrapping the coils after the wicks where inserted...I should be able to do this with one piece of kanthal and 1 pos screw terminal and 1 neg screw terminal...way to hard to explain..I'll post the model as soon as I'm done...so you guys can rip it apart

 

[WillyB]

There you go, (no need to tell me twice Willy, I'm a firm believer in the KISS theory I haven't seen that design...I tried doing a google image search, with mixed results...

I was thinking side holes as well, seeing as I plan on (or at least try) to do a dual coil/dual wick set up I wanted to place the air "intakes" if you will so that there was a forced/aimed air flow in and around the coils as much as possible upon negative air created by my draw...and side holes would fill that need perfectly (in theory). By which, a lot of powering/connector options open up (re: Nico's model)

There is something about the down tube air-inlet that kinda fascinates me, If Nico is using it there must be something to it (but drilling side holes in glass would be a bear).

There would be quite a few adjustments/experiments that could be quickly done, height for one and with a slight bend distance to the coil. A lotta tweakability.

Some more WillPro stuff.

And his drawing, note it is metric.

It would be fairly simple to convert to a 2 piece (separate top) style. A little thicker top for a double o-ring.

 

[Quigsworth]

I may have to go to a 2 piece as well, top being some sort of metal tube, if only for heat issues...here's some pics of my dual/dual idea so far...I haven't done a fill port yet...my Sketch-up skills aren't the best but you should be able to get the idea...again, your input is not only appreciated, it's down right necessary



btw, the hex nut on the mid section and on top of the center post are motherboard stand-off's, in case you can't see clearly, I've slotted them so the kanthal can slide in the slot and get pinched by machine screws...the white disc is an insulator (hell, maybe the plug out of a carto, lol)

One thing that maybe problematic with this is the amount of non coiled exposed kanthal leader just sitting there glowing...a total waste of precious wattage

 

[nicotime]

Thats a nice rig Quigs..I like the mechanical "bite" in to the wire...no hot spots from high resistance like wires that are just wrapped around or pinched between a post.

I like to have the air tube extending down for two reasons...one being the air intake positioned by the coil as explained before...and two...if you lay the mod on its side or upside down even...any juice that may leak out of the tank would have to reach the height of the now pointing up intake and MP tube to run out of the mod. So far that has never happened with mine. I had it in my pocket once in a doctors office and the atty chamber had completely filled with juice and none leaked out of the mod...I just run a straight wire down the MP tube and pushed down on one side of the silicone divider to let the juice flow back into the tank and I was good to go. And that is why I like silicone plugs and glass...easy to see whats going on and deal with...and you can mold a ton of "parts".


Oh...and Willy its not to bad drilling a hole in the glass tubes...I have done a couple but just didnt like the setup....I used a cone shape diamond bit and held the tube under water. The main thing when drilling glass is not to let it heat up and never let the whole diameter of the bit contact the hole after it breaks thru or its the same as when your drill bit breaks thru metal and grabs..except glass will crack instead.

 

[Quigsworth]

Agreed, I have a few mods that I'm always cognisant of re: is it firing?, is it leaking?, etc...as easy as air holes drilled through the outer tube would be considerably easier to do, I'll have the tubing...why not...

 

[BJ43]

After building over 20 cheap lines and converting two A2's to vertical wicks my recommendation is to put your post as close as you can to the wick/coil. Long runs to the posts will be hot spots especially with the higher voltages. Those long runs are normally where the coils pop. I really like your mod.

 

[Quigsworth]

Long runs to the posts will be hot spots especially with the higher voltages. Those long runs are normally where the coils pop. I really like your mod.

Yup, thinking the same thing...the neg connection will be a piece of cake, just drill and tap right at the base of each wick, I just stuck the motherboard stand-off there cause I just did a component duplication of the pos post stand-off...Sketch-up laziness. As far as the upper...maybe just "tilt" the wick in at the top to lessen as much as possible excess kanthal...plus it gets it even further from the outer tube heat wise.

 

[JollyRogers]

The distance to your + electrode may be overcome using a wrap of silver wire or other low/no resistance conductor wrapped around the kanthal between the + post to the coil start @the wicks. Or maybe a washer... And yes as already posted, travel distance from +/- to your coil is of importance. Otherwise looks good. I might suggest insulators in your SS mesh holes going into the tank, but not necessary. That is an often week spot for shorts and overlooked by a lot of people when using a SS wick. But you may be OK if oxidized properly. Otherwise, I am digging what the OP posted and following your development!

 

[Quigsworth]

Jeez Jollyroger, I never even thought about insulator sleeves for the wick bores...this SS wick schema is so new to me...anybody else do that?

Sent via my Galaxy SII

 

[asdaq]

Yes that has been done too. But, if there is a setup where the wick is conducting to the ground where it touches metal in the tube it is just as likely to conduct to a spot lower on the coil and skip wraps. A better plan is to oxidize/passify properly where the coil is and not have to worry about it.

Tilting the wick over to the post sounds like a good solution, somehow it's a shame there needs to be a 2nd negative screw though.

I'm curious about the dual coil/wick setup. You'll have to do another with a single wick to give a comparison.

 

[JollyRogers]

Agreed, insulators are not a requirement... As long as your oxidation is right, you would be good. However, with your double wicks, chance of not properly oxidized and/or a short to the wick goes up, so I suggested it. Plus if you put an insulator in the wick holes, you might have just created a place for the ground for the coil... depending on what you use and how. Just some thoughts.