Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)

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ShowMeTwice

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I can't get the bloody juice flow control to open.
Pssst ... @Zazie ... try this. ;)
IMG_1185 copy1.jpg
 

Zazie

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All you have to do is with one hand grab where the air holes are and with your other hand twist the yellow piece
Nothing so simple for me. I had already lubed the hell out of everything, per @ShowMeTwice's tutorial, but even so the only way I managed to get the tank section to turn was with the help of pliers. Damaged the Ultem a bit, but at least it budged. I dread trying to shut it off when the time comes to refill.
 

johnpalley

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Nothing so simple for me. I had already lubed the hell out of everything, per @ShowMeTwice's tutorial, but even so the only way I managed to get the tank section to turn was with the help of pliers. Damaged the Ultem a bit, but at least it budged. I dread trying to shut it off when the time comes to refill.
Hmm that’s weird I’ve never lubed it and it turns fine. Hopefully any damage doesn’t effect how the tank works. Good luck with everything
 

Nailz

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    @Zazie, did the jf lock up on you with or without the 4ml extension?

    And I can't believe that nobody mentioned unscrewing the top a little, which releases pressure on the tank and allows you to turn the jf on or off.

    I was going to suggest that, as had same thing happen to me, and for a while I wasn't even closing the juice control, but a little unscrew at the top and now moves easily again.
     

    Zazie

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    Loosening the top cap didn't make much difference just now, but I'm tired and grumpy, so I didn't really give it a chance. I'll try again tomorrow, when my irritation has subsided. I need another bubble bath right now to recover.

    I'm using the 4ml extension, @Mordacai.

    Thanks, @johnpalley. I just scraped the Ultem a little, so I don't think I've compromised the tank.
     

    Janusz

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    Loosening the top cap didn't make much difference just now, but I'm tired and grumpy, so I didn't really give it a chance. I'll try again tomorrow, when my irritation has subsided. I need another bubble bath right now to recover.

    I'm using the 4ml extension, @Mordacai.

    Thanks, @johnpalley. I just scraped the Ultem a little, so I don't think I've compromised the tank.

    It is not top cap that need to be loosen but the part that is under cap screwed to yellow tank.
     

    AngeNZ

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    Nothing so simple for me. I had already lubed the hell out of everything, per @ShowMeTwice's tutorial, but even so the only way I managed to get the tank section to turn was with the help of pliers. Damaged the Ultem a bit, but at least it budged. I dread trying to shut it off when the time comes to refill.

    One of my X's JFC was hard to turn. I lubed the lil o-rings on the tank, but then I noticed the o-ring on the top of the chimney, where the tank sits on.
    orings.jpg


    So I lubed the crap out of that o-ring too. It helped big time :thumb:
     

    Mordacai

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    @AngeNZ, lubed the o rings for the top and bottom of the tank and the base of the deck. Didn't help any, tolerances for the ultem tank section are off and it's too tall. So when you tighten the top of the tank with the fill port it puts pressure on the tank section and causes a friction braking effect that can only be stopped by releasing the pressure on the tank.

    @Zazie, I have the exact issue with the extension. On your next FT order you could put a couple of the ultem tank sections in the basket.

    But like @Janusz has said, it's the top of the tank section under the top cap that you need to loosen. O rings for my top cap are too thick and it's easy to unscrew by a 1/4 to a1/2 turn to release the pressure on the tank and allow it to turn.
     
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    Zazie

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    Having no success getting the tank to budge or, for that matter, the cap under the top cap that connects to it, I decided to sacrifice the bit of juice still in the tank, wrestle the whole thing apart--which required the aid of pliers and a screwdriver stuck in the airflow hole to provide leverage--and relubricate every o ring I could find, this time with Lubri-Film rather than VG. The tank now turns, although I won't fully trust it till it consents to do so the next time I have to refill. With the addition of a different drip tip (thanks for that suggestion, @AngeNZ), I am now getting a reasonable vape. It'll be a while before I forgive it, but the Project X and I may yet become friends. Time will tell.

    And good suggestion, @Mordacai: I will order more tank sections. The urge to use a hammer was strong today, and I may not be able to resist it forever.
     
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    AngeNZ

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    Having no success getting the tank to budge or, for that matter, the cap under the top cap that connects to it, I decided to sacrifice the bit of juice still in the tank, wrestle the whole thing apart--which required the aid of pliers and a screwdriver stuck in the airflow hole to provide leverage--and relubricate every o ring I could find, this time with Lubri-Film rather than VG. The tank now turns, although I won't fully trust it till it consents to do so the next time I have to refill. With the addition of a different drip tip (thanks for that suggestion, @AngeNZ), I am now getting reasonable vape. It'll be a while before I forgive it, but the Project X and I may yet become friends. Time will tell.

    And good suggestion, @Mordacai: I will order more tank sections. The urge to use a hammer was strong today, and I may not be able to resist it forever.

    Your tolerance amazes me - I would've used the sledge hammer :lol:

    But I am glad to hear you are getting a better vape from your x-rated RTA ;)
     

    Mordacai

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    @Zazie, glad to hear that you've got the top off the tank. But how did it get that tight in the first place? You only need it to be nice and snug, as if it's too tight the tank section will not be free to turn

    But me myself, I'm so frugal that taking the hammer to an atomiser is sacrilege. Just can't bring myself to do it, no matter how strong the urge.

    And here's the link for the 4ml ultem tank section for everyone.
    https://www.fasttech.com/p/9684608

    Also I've noticed that the top section of the X doesn't sit flush with the deck, you have to twist it and push it down further until it reaches its home position. Seems as though this has an impact on seeping, as since I have made sure it's pushed right down I don't have anywhere as much seepage.
     
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    Zazie

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    @Zazie, glad to hear that you've got the top off the tank. But how did it get that tight in the first place? You only need it to be nice and snug, as if it's too tight the tank section will not be free to turn

    But me myself, I'm so frugal that taking the hammer to an atomiser is sacrilege. Just can't bring myself to do it, no matter how strong the urge.

    And here's the link for the 4ml ultem tank section for everyone.
    https://www.fasttech.com/p/9684608

    Also I've noticed that the top section of the X doesn't sit flush with the deck, you have to twist it and push it down further until it reaches its home position. Seems as though this has an impact on seeping, as since I have made sure it's pushed right down I don't have anywhere as much seepage.
    I have no idea how it got so tight, although I suppose it's possible I might have tightened it inadvertently when I was struggling with the juice flow control. Lord knows I didn't do it on purpose.

    My hammer threat is just a fantasy. I'd be much more likely to hurl an atty across the room in a sudden eruption of rage than to retrieve a hammer and set to pounding. A crime passionel rather than premeditated murder, in other words. But I haven't had that kind of tantrum in a couple of decades, so the Project X is probably safe.
     
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    Mordacai

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    At least for now @Zazie, and besides a plasma lance is more fun.

    And yes, possible. When you turn jf on it does tighten the top of the tank, it's a bit daft because it's easy to solve.

    I just wish that I could get my coil perfectly placed, always seems to end up at a slight angle no matter how hard I try.

    But my SS316L 27AWG (0.34mm) 2.5mm ID 8 spaced wraps coil at 0.72 ohms gives a quite pleasant vape, what's everyone else running?
     

    johnpalley

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    How are you guys? I got a question, sorry if its a little off subject but I dont know where else to ask this and id prefer an answer from the people here.

    Ive been trying different coils and wire from Vandy Vape and Coilology. My favorite wire I like using is the Coilology Ni80 MTL Fused Clapton Heating Wire 2*30/40 AWG. I do a 2.5mm coil with 6 wraps that come out to around .73-.80 ohms. Im guessing that's wire made in China because I've been getting it from FastTech. Ive been wanting to try Good american companies like LightningVapes and advanced vape supply. Do they offer coils or wire that is pretty much similar to the Coilology wire that I'm using? Fyi I dont wanna go any thinner than where im at now. I tried thinner wire and I didn't have good results. The guy at Lightning Vapes sent me this link with a list to choose from but he didn't give a specific recommendation.
    Clapton Wire Spools - Resistance Chart

    As far as Advanced Vape Supply I know they mainly only do Stainless Steel. Is there Fused Claptons that they sell that would be pretty similar to what im using?
    Stainless Steel Wire

    Im trying to find the best wire on the market so I figured I could give these companies a try to compare. I only do airy mouth to lung out of the Project x and Fresia rta's. Id like to be around the same ohms with a 2.5 mm coil with 6 wraps. Im also trying to stick to fused claptons cause im noticing they have the best flavor.

    Also if anyone knows better American companies than those to get top of the line wire from im all ears. Appreciate it. Thanks
     
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    AngeNZ

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    How are you guys? I got a question, sorry if its a little off subject but I dont know where else to ask this and id prefer an answer from the people here.

    Ive been trying different coils and wire from Vandy Vape and Coilology. My favorite wire I like using is the Coilology Ni80 MTL Fused Clapton Heating Wire 2*30/40 AWG. I do a 2.5mm coil with 6 wraps that come out to around .73-.80 ohms. Im guessing that's wire made in China because I've been getting it from FastTech. Ive been wanting to try Good american companies like LightningVapes and advanced vape supply. Do they offer coils or wire that is pretty much similar to the Coilology wire that I'm using? Fyi I dont wanna go any thinner than where im at now. I tried thinner wire and I didn't have good results. The guy at Lightning Vapes sent me this link with a list to choose from but he didn't give a specific recommendation.
    Clapton Wire Spools - Resistance Chart

    As far as Advanced Vape Supply I know they mainly only do Stainless Steel. Is there Fused Claptons that they sell that would be pretty similar to what im using?
    Stainless Steel Wire

    Im trying to find the best wire on the market so I figured I could give these companies a try to compare. I only do airy mouth to lung out of the Project x and Fresia rta's. Id like to be around the same ohms with a 2.5 mm coil with 6 wraps. Im also trying to stick to fused claptons cause im noticing they have the best flavor.

    Also if anyone knows better American companies than those to get top of the line wire from im all ears. Appreciate it. Thanks

    @ShowMeTwice is the best person to help you with american links - I think he uses Lightning Vapes wire.

    But I do use that same coilology fused clapton 30*2/40 wire as you, I just get the ss316l variety. So here's my take on it ;)

    From Advanced vape supply - this would be the closest:
    SPOOLED FUSED CLAPTON 316L SS (28GX2/40G)
    It will be lower in resistance due to it being ss316l and it is 28ga instead of 30ga.

    From lightning Vape - it's the same wire:
    40 SS / 28 SS Fused 2 Core
    Clapton Wire Spools - 25'
     
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    johnpalley

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    @ShowMeTwice is the best person to help you with american links - I think he uses Lightning Vapes wire.

    But I do use that same coilology fused clapton 30*2/40 wire as you, I just get the ss316l variety. So here's my take on it ;)

    From Advanced vape supply - this would be the closest:
    SPOOLED FUSED CLAPTON 316L SS (28GX2/40G)
    It will be lower in resistance due to it being ss316l and it is 28ga instead of 30ga.

    From lightning Vape - it's the same wire:
    40 SS / 28 SS Fused 2 Core
    Clapton Wire Spools - 25'
    Now this is where I get extremely confused. So using this wire in the links you posted it says 6 wraps is 0.325 ohms. I need to be way higher than that so does that mean its almost impossible for me to use fused captions in stainless steal? Im guessing Ni80 is my only option because 5-6 wraps would be best correct?

    Im also confused about something else. I ordered Coilology ni80 28/40 mtl clapton wire also to test out. I thought this wire was gonna be thicker than the Coilology Ni80 MTL Fused Clapton Heating Wire 2*30/40 AWG. I thought the lower the number the thicker the wire is. Can someone please tell me why it's thinner?

    I appreciate the response Ange. I'll definitely wait for showmetwice to chime in. In the meantime if you know the answers to any of these questions id love to know.
     

    johnpalley

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    Look in the middle of page 10 of this thread, we discuss clapton coils and what wire used.
    I just read page 10 but that doesn't give me the answers I was looking for. You were talking about wire that was at 1.50 ohms with 6 wraps. Im trying to be at .70-.80 ohms.

    In my last post I also forgot to add another question.

    check this link
    You are being redirected...
    Scroll down to the last coils on the list. It says 28g mtl ss316l coils that are .90 ohms. How the hell were they able to make those .90 ohms? The 28g wire Ange listed earlier is freakin .35. This stuff is extremely confusing.
     
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