I call it ADP Mod.. Auto Drip Mod!
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Im guessing he cut it so he had a ring of rubber kinda like a O ring.. and inserted it sidways so it still works like a spring >>> i think this is what he is saying... chime in Kelemvor
Really you should be able to find alot of things that will stop the plug from pushing down in the cart you could probly even use somthing as simple as a toothpic really cut it down to the right size and rest it on the tabs inside the cartridge...
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Just to let you know Ive not heard of anything like this.. I was at work with 5 carts modded with PTB.. I would get a few good hits then I would have to top off ... hit a few more... top off again. So I figured why not just fill the thing up with juice and cap it.. well the only other thing I had was the filler that came in the carts... I was going threw a junk drawer looking for somthing to hold up the plug and picked up a pen when It hit me I could cut the spring down wedge it in there to hold up a peice of polly... I tried it and it worked so I did a write up and video.. if sombody else thought of it before me kudo's to them... But saying that im just reinforcing sombodys else's Idea is somwhat discrediting to me.. but whatever im not trying to be the hero of e-cig forums I just wanted to help some others out with a Idea I had while working.
Tried to word that as carefully as possible ;-). Your idea was unique, not saying you took it from someone else. Just as I have done cart venting and such to find it has already been done. Was a unique idea, but approached already. Using a spring to push poly against the bridge is the same for all practical purposes, as long as the "plug" covers the cart opening.
It was an awesome idea, and thanks to you and whoever may of had a similiar idea prior (better?) ;-)
Now, we need a clear glass or plastic cart with three bridge layovers to support the plug pad and free up the room the spring uses for more fluid. Keeping the cart clear would allow quick reference to how full it is!
don't know, it was only an idea.
i just did it. and for now it seems to work well.
seems if you can cut 2mm with scissors it should also be fine.
my wife just took a few pictures, maybe this is a better explanation:
hope it helps
i just did it. and for now it seems to work well.
seems if you can cut 2mm with scissors it should also be fine.
my wife just took a few pictures, maybe this is a better explanation:
hope it helps
Its all good man ... I do really like the idea of a clear cartridge, not to mention how cool it would be to see the vapor coming threw....
Looks good to me Kelemvor! I dont see why that would not be just as effective
however is rubber safe? lol.. who knows but one thing is for sure all these mods have to be better then smoking analogs
however is rubber safe? lol.. who knows but one thing is for sure all these mods have to be better then smoking analogs
I've actually been thinking of something similar, but couldn't figure out what to use to keep the filler material from getting pushed down into the cart. The spring isn't a bad idea at all, though I'm not sure that the shape or material is ideal.
Ideally I think a piece of extremely coarse/porous filter material would be ideal to fill the majority of the cart - especially if it could be permanently bonded to the thin layer of filter that would touch the bridge.
Something like:
I have a suggestion for this, think it sounds possible?:
For the course material possibly use the fish tank sleeves then the normal cart filler on top, and spin a sring down through them both to get them attached. I am suggesting the blue foam as unless you cut the foam larger than the cart it is very porous, and does not stop a leak untill compressed further by using a larger section.
Just add spring in the middle of the pic above for finished product.
Spining the spring through both before insertion is probably the best way, then insert the completed assemly into the cart.
Glue wouldnt be a good idea lol, as bond material/method needs to be porous, hence the idea of using a spring. Another aproach might be to use some sort of mesh or bar on the top to hold everything in, but I cant think of an ideal mesh (or method to get mesh to stay in), and the bar idea would either need to be glued in place (not good) or have micro holes drilled in the side of cart ( more work than I feel this warrants lol) to slide the bar(s) through.
don't know, it was only an idea.
i just did it. and for now it seems to work well.
seems if you can cut 2mm with scissors it should also be fine.
my wife just took a few pictures, maybe this is a better explanation:
hope it helps
Definitely looks good, and sure it would do the trick. I think the spring displaces a little less room. I do not believe temperatures are getting to the point to melt the rubber, and inhaling through a spring??? Well, compared to what I've smoked in my history... a spring is the least of my concerns ;-)
The condoms aren't rubber.. they're a silicone based elastomer. Very high melting/burning point. No worries.
Re: the two piece foam solution.
I had played with a similar idea after I had taken a KR808D-1 cartomizer apart. They use a tightly woven inner layer wrapped around the coil, and this acts as a wick and buffer between the coil and the outer sleeve of loose poly. I filled a cart up with the standard poly, and then capped it with the material from the KR inner layer. As it turns out, if you have the top "plug" of the tightly woven stuff, then you don't need the standard loose poly below it at all. The "spring mod" just further reinforces that idea. The lower level can just be pure liquid. You just need the "membrane" layer between the liquid and the atty bridge mesh to keep it from leaking and flooding.
I had played with a similar idea after I had taken a KR808D-1 cartomizer apart. They use a tightly woven inner layer wrapped around the coil, and this acts as a wick and buffer between the coil and the outer sleeve of loose poly. I filled a cart up with the standard poly, and then capped it with the material from the KR inner layer. As it turns out, if you have the top "plug" of the tightly woven stuff, then you don't need the standard loose poly below it at all. The "spring mod" just further reinforces that idea. The lower level can just be pure liquid. You just need the "membrane" layer between the liquid and the atty bridge mesh to keep it from leaking and flooding.
Any filler will displace volume which can be used by fluid. I have done this idea with the foam, compress more toward the top, leave the bottom more porous. It works good, but the horizontal spring rules. I think the spring itself is wicking the fluid to the foam/poly. It also captures the fluid in between the coils when the cart is going low. The rounded surface allows for the foam mesh/poly to be tucked in on the sides. The spring also conducts some heat to allow more fluidity of the juice. All around, I can not think of a better untensil than the spring to use here. Now, the material, not sure. I do know they use different materials to make springs, including materials that do not contain metallic substances.
LMAO!! you aint lying!! You dont even want to know some of the things ive came up with as far as smoking utenzels.. dont make me whoop out some of my "analog" smoking devices
Does anyone have a JOYE contact? They should make a new aftermarket cart based on this idea, with the flip top cart so filling it back up is easy, a built in "spring" to stop the poly-fill and hold it into the flip top area.
I cant imagine it would cost that much more to produce than the stock cart. And I'm sure all of us would gladly pay a bit more for carts that worked right out of the box.
Man I would love to have carts like that.
I cant imagine it would cost that much more to produce than the stock cart. And I'm sure all of us would gladly pay a bit more for carts that worked right out of the box.
Man I would love to have carts like that.
I am trying the spring mod today and so far it is working great. I am a n00b and just went full time on e-cigs (have a Joye 510) on Friday. LOL I am already looking into getting a SB or a Protege as I am going through batteries like crazy. I just love all the great tips and tricks yall have come up with and everyone is so eager to share. Thanks
I used a drinking straw cut to length instead of a spring or the cut piece from the rubber cap. Displaces less liquid than the rubber piece and no metal to corrode.
I also used a piece of a greenie scrubber for the plug - BUT don't use the green ones. I switched to the BLUE NON-SCRATCH as they don't contain abrasives embedded in them!! Press the cart mouth on the greenie and it leaves an impression to cut around. Just make it slightly larger, so it seals the opening. The liquid chamber itself never gets hot, so no worries about the straw melting.
I also used a piece of a greenie scrubber for the plug - BUT don't use the green ones. I switched to the BLUE NON-SCRATCH as they don't contain abrasives embedded in them!! Press the cart mouth on the greenie and it leaves an impression to cut around. Just make it slightly larger, so it seals the opening. The liquid chamber itself never gets hot, so no worries about the straw melting.
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I wish they would upgrade the whole thing theres alot of things that could use improvment my biggest gripe is how inconsistant there attys are.. out of 6 attys I have 1 that hits like a freaking champ the rest of them are not worth a crap! ive cleaned and re primed nothing helps.. I guess Im going to have to start checking the ohm's on these things when they arrive I dont understand why the ohm's on a brand new atty are all over the place Ive seen anywhere from 1.5 ohm's to 5 on brand new attys I dont get it..
guess this is the next project improving on them non hitting attys
Heck... you really don't need a spring. Just a couple of "cross bars" molded into the original design to keep the poly at the correct elevation, and you're done. Early in this thread somebody posted an idea about putting two staple bars across the cart.... this will actually work well, it's just harder to make than dropping a spring down in there.
P.S. If the poly is part of the "flip top", then you don't need a bar or a spring or anything. The rest of the cart can just be an empty well.
It varies 3-5mm from the edge to the center of the pad. It can be compressed to be about 3mm.
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