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I finally "get" Tanks!

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Dusty_D

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you don't even want to see my home made tank.. hahaha!.. it involves a 5ml juice bottle and a cartomizer punched with a nail and hammer.. When my husband saw me use it he gave me that what the... :?: :facepalm: look.. lol

I think I'll stop watching youtube and stick to my stardust.. lol

That my friend is the K-tank or as I called it, the G-Tank or Ghetto tank. Did a mini-review on it right here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/canada-forum/227177-review-olivers-k-tanks-i-like-call-g-tank.html.. It was my first "tank". :)
 

Mindfield

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While the tanks have solved this issue for me, I've noticed that I have to use the 1.7 SmokTechs almost like an atty. Vape for a while and top up 4 or 5 drops. It does taste burnt if I don't do that for an extended period. Is this what you are experiencing? It was no biggie for me because I was used to dripping but I could see how it would render using a carto as worthless. I have never understood how folks say they vape on a carto for hours without topping up.

Pertty much. A carto shouldn't need topping off 'til it's nearly dry, at least when it's new. Even if you chain vape, a good carto should be able to keep up. That changes as it get used of course, but a fresh carto should be pretty much maintenance free 'til it needs refilling, and then you should get at least half a dozen fills out of it 'til it starts needing more frequent top-ops.


ON topic question... how do you stop the stuff from the cut off wheel getting into the filler and your lungs?

It isn't going anywhere. As long as you aren't cutting too deeply, any debris from the wheel or shavings from the carto would be sitting at edge and will never get to the coil. I just make sure I make a slow and steady cut, let the wheel do the work with just enough pressure to keep it grinding its way through, and when I see a large enough opening, I stop. The filler acts like a built-in filter.
 

shades

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It isn't going anywhere. As long as you aren't cutting too deeply, any debris from the wheel or shavings from the carto would be sitting at edge and will never get to the coil. I just make sure I make a slow and steady cut, let the wheel do the work with just enough pressure to keep it grinding its way through, and when I see a large enough opening, I stop. The filler acts like a built-in filter.

I dont really agree with the first part, the "metal dust"/finite praticles can easily go into the slot you have cut just as easily as it can go anywhere but in there.

However the filler as a filter seems like an edible argument for my brain to chew on :)

On the topic of refilling cartomizer and being one who is scared of needles....

A good compromise is a bottle with a needle tip, I slip it on the side of the filler on one side, and then do the same to the other side, repeat if it looks to need it/ has had time to soak in. It has made a world of difference for me and my cartomizers.

I used to need 2 of them dripped in to get into work on a 45 min. drive to work, using the above I get easily into work on one. I have only been doing that for a few days now and it has increased my personal experience greatly.

Different folks for different strokes tho!

PS.

I am not trying to be obstinate I just want people to think of all things and make up their own minds as to the risks associated with it
 
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Toronto_Mike

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I was doing well with smoketech 1.7's - they were short - just long enough to work with VPX tank - I was happy & getting a good 5 days out of them with 3 to 4 small punched holes. When the larger 1.7's & 2.6's arrived - I thought I'd be in heaven - WRONG! Some worked for 3 days, some would not wick, some would wick for a few hours & flood! A few were dead right out of the box. I tried punching 2 holes, I tried 3 holes, anything to get it "right"

IMHO, the quality of the filler is key. It needs to be fresh & slightly moist. If it is dry - it will never wick properly. Ever notice the kanger horizonal have better batting averages - they come in blister packaging - maybe air tight?

For the time being, my VPX is on vacation as I mess with Vivi Nova ver1 - already it's flawed but I can work with it with the quck fixes.

I guess it's back to Boges but I had the same issues with Boges back in the winter. I guess it 6 of some or 1/2 a dozen of the other.
 

encee_rz

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The dremel tool I bought came with a little brush add-on, and I usually just scrape the metal shavings out with that.

This is the kit I bought. It was super cheap and came with 6 extra cutting heads.
Jobmate 36-piece Rotary Tool Kit | Canadian Tire

I've been using smoktech 2.8 single coils, and I haven't found any of the problems you discussed Mindfield. I got mine from Health Cabin though, not canvape. I DID however find one of the cartos didn't have air holes drilled. You can imagine my dismay after I had slotted and stuck it in a tank, filled and tried to vape and WHAM can't get anything out of this carto. Went nuts for a little while trying to figure out WTF was going on.

On another note, does anyone here use the "shorty" tanks you can use with normal sized cartos? I think tossing a kanger horizontal in there would be pretty awesome.
 

Rttch

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I have a phiniac tank (regular size so that I had more options for cartos and not have to worry about the length) and punched cartos work fine in it. An idea, that I have not tried yet, is to put one of those wood dowels in the open end of the carto before punching to help the carto keep its shape. I punch a larger hole near the bottom and a smaller one near the top to use with my 100% vg juices and get a minimum of a week every time. Vaping JokeSmoke 2.0 right now in a new carto that I started today. Going to be a great week :)

A couple other tips to help with the filling process. Put the little rubber piece back in the end of the carto before you slide it down to fill it up. When you push the tank back down into place, you don't risk cutting the o-rings and it's just easier. I will usually throw a couple of drops in the carto when I take that rubber piece out before I put my drip tip back on, so that may help you as well. The last tip is to put your new carto on your pv to line up your holes with your button. I use my thumb to fire up my silver bullet and it keeps the holes on the downside of the tank to keep the hole in the deepest part of the liquid. That black phiniac is not see through at all, so I'd highly recommend strategically placing your holes in your carto.
 
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Dusty_D

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The dremel tool I bought came with a little brush add-on, and I usually just scrape the metal shavings out with that.

This is the kit I bought. It was super cheap and came with 6 extra cutting heads.
Jobmate 36-piece Rotary Tool Kit | Canadian Tire

I've been using smoktech 2.8 single coils, and I haven't found any of the problems you discussed Mindfield. I got mine from Health Cabin though, not canvape. I DID however find one of the cartos didn't have air holes drilled. You can imagine my dismay after I had slotted and stuck it in a tank, filled and tried to vape and WHAM can't get anything out of this carto. Went nuts for a little while trying to figure out WTF was going on.

On another note, does anyone here use the "shorty" tanks you can use with normal sized cartos? I think tossing a kanger horizontal in there would be pretty awesome.

I got this one: Mastercraft 250-piece Rotary Tool & Kit | Canadian Tire except it was on sale for $59. I don't even know what all the other stuff is for. :)
 

Dusty_D

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That black phiniac is not see through at all, so I'd highly recommend strategically placing your holes in your carto.

I realized that, only after I got it! I don't have to worry about holes though, because I am slotting, about 1/2 cm on either side.
 

ChellyNelly

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I was doing well with smoketech 1.7's - they were short - just long enough to work with VPX tank - I was happy & getting a good 5 days out of them with 3 to 4 small punched holes. When the larger 1.7's & 2.6's arrived - I thought I'd be in heaven - WRONG! Some worked for 3 days, some would not wick, some would wick for a few hours & flood! A few were dead right out of the box. I tried punching 2 holes, I tried 3 holes, anything to get it "right"

IMHO, the quality of the filler is key. It needs to be fresh & slightly moist. If it is dry - it will never wick properly. Ever notice the kanger horizonal have better batting averages - they come in blister packaging - maybe air tight?

For the time being, my VPX is on vacation as I mess with Vivi Nova ver1 - already it's flawed but I can work with it with the quck fixes.

I guess it's back to Boges but I had the same issues with Boges back in the winter. I guess it 6 of some or 1/2 a dozen of the other.

The Smok 1.7s fit in the VPX??? The Boge XLs are too short for the VPX, I have found :( I have to use a 510 connector on the bottom, it's about 1mm too short.
 

ChellyNelly

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The dremel tool I bought came with a little brush add-on, and I usually just scrape the metal shavings out with that.

This is the kit I bought. It was super cheap and came with 6 extra cutting heads.
Jobmate 36-piece Rotary Tool Kit | Canadian Tire

I've been using smoktech 2.8 single coils, and I haven't found any of the problems you discussed Mindfield. I got mine from Health Cabin though, not canvape. I DID however find one of the cartos didn't have air holes drilled. You can imagine my dismay after I had slotted and stuck it in a tank, filled and tried to vape and WHAM can't get anything out of this carto. Went nuts for a little while trying to figure out WTF was going on.

On another note, does anyone here use the "shorty" tanks you can use with normal sized cartos? I think tossing a kanger horizontal in there would be pretty awesome.

I use short tanks as well as XL. I have a Mom & Pop Min Sub tank (holds 4ml) and a Phiniac for shorts, and a VPX and M1A1 for XLs. The Kangers sucks in tanks though, IMO. They burn out in just a few days or less.
 

Cobber

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I've gone back to my tanks with the new Boge XXLs because I was tired of the sketchy quality of the dual coils. On my second slotted carto change in the tank I ripped the o-ring on the bottom cap and went back to punching with the saddle valve.

That was the 3rd ripped o-ring in my 2 tanks. Didn't rip any while punching.
 

Toronto_Mike

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The Smok 1.7s fit in the VPX??? The Boge XLs are too short for the VPX, I have found :( I have to use a 510 connector on the bottom, it's about 1mm too short.

I have the short 2.5ml VPX(3.5cm). The Smok 1.7 XL are 4.5cm. Judging from the pic on Happy Vaper - I'd say it would work but don't quote me - I've been wrong, before.
 

fuzzione

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I was doing well with smoketech 1.7's - they were short - just long enough to work with VPX tank - I was happy & getting a good 5 days out of them with 3 to 4 small punched holes. When the larger 1.7's & 2.6's arrived - I thought I'd be in heaven - WRONG! Some worked for 3 days, some would not wick, some would wick for a few hours & flood! A few were dead right out of the box. I tried punching 2 holes, I tried 3 holes, anything to get it "right"

IMHO, the quality of the filler is key. It needs to be fresh & slightly moist. If it is dry - it will never wick properly. Ever notice the kanger horizonal have better batting averages - they come in blister packaging - maybe air tight?

For the time being, my VPX is on vacation as I mess with Vivi Nova ver1 - already it's flawed but I can work with it with the quck fixes.

I guess it's back to Boges but I had the same issues with Boges back in the winter. I guess it 6 of some or 1/2 a dozen of the other.

Same experiences with the ST's in tanks. Only 2 of 5 have thus far worked flawlessly for me (2.5ohm DC). It's very frustrating because the 2 that do work are simply amazing. I had one of these 2 going for almost a month.
The 2 1.7 DC's that came with the ST tanks were basically DOA. Horrible burned taste from the get go.

After much research I've got some of the 801 XL fusions coming in. Some people swear by their filler quality and consistency particularly when used in a tank setup. We'll see. You need a 501 adapter for them but they do have something that resembles a flange so they don't pop off the tank. Punching required.

One of the ways I use to minimize metal filings from dremeling is to position a shop vac hose 2-3" from where you're cutting. Most of that junk will just get sucked up. I would personally use my drill press, cobalt bit and clamping device instead but I know not everyone has that equipment.
 

therealcmac

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I've gone back to my tanks with the new Boge XXLs because I was tired of the sketchy quality of the dual coils. On my second slotted carto change in the tank I ripped the o-ring on the bottom cap and went back to punching with the saddle valve.

That was the 3rd ripped o-ring in my 2 tanks. Didn't rip any while punching.

this happened in my Phiniac tank, the O-rings are soooo tight that they bite right into the slot. I have no issues with the SMK tanks though.
 

vise

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this happened in my Phiniac tank, the O-rings are soooo tight that they bite right into the slot. I have no issues with the SMK tanks though.

The nice thing the Phiniacs though is the end caps can be pried off fairly easily, thus allowing the slotted carto to be inserted into the tank without the slot cutting the inner o-ring.
 

Rttch

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therealmac said:
this happened in my Phiniac tank, the O-rings are soooo tight that they bite right into the slot. I have no issues with the SMK tanks though.

The nice thing the Phiniacs though is the end caps can be pried off fairly easily, thus allowing the slotted carto to be inserted into the tank without the slot cutting the inner o-ring.

Have you guys tried my method of putting that rubber cap in before sliding the tank to put in more juice? I haven't had a problem with slicing my o-rings when I do it this way.
 
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