I have confused myself and need help deciding RTA/ VW/VV

[Munnin42]

I tried on Reddit and got more confused. I want a re-buildabe tank, I need to know which is the best for the money. I wanted a kanger sub tank but I guess they have fallen out of favor and there are better out there now that don't leak. I originally wanted an Orchid but I don't like the plastic. So that's my first problem, which tank?

Also, I have a Akuma V2 mech right now in 18500 mode, can I run a RTA on this safely? Should I get VW/VV device for my tank? I do not like the size of the boxes, I have tiny hands and they don't feel right to me. Is there a VV/VW that is shaped like a tube mech and is decent, like it will last longer then 6 months?

Thanks everyone!

 

[Susan~S]

I wanted a kanger sub tank but I guess they have fallen out of favor and there are better out there now that don't leak. I originally wanted an Orchid but I don't like the plastic. So that's my first problem, which tank?

I have the mini Subtank and have had no issues with leaking.

I do not like the size of the boxes, I have tiny hands and they don't feel right to me. Is there a VV/VW that is shaped like a tube mech and is decent, like it will last longer then 6 months?

Look at the iStick 30watt (2200 mAh). It's very small and is almost tube style. Just a little larger than a bic lighter

Also, I have a Akuma V2 mech right now in 18500 mode, can I run a RTA on this safely?

Yes, if you are up to speed on battery safety, Ohm's Law, amp draw, etc. You must own an ohm reader and check all your builds before firing and respect the CDR of the battery you are using PLUS allow some headroom. Here is a list of some 18450/18500 batteries and their CDR/amps.

1. AW IMR 18490 1200mah 18A (new)
2. AW IMR 18490 1100mah 16.5A
3. Efest (purple) 18500 1000mAh 15A

If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[Munnin42]

WOW! That is a lot of information.
I know most of these things, I have been building my own coils for awhile on my TOBH and a few others I have tried. I just know next to nothing about re-buildable tanks.
I appreciate all of the info though, and hope I don't come across like a snob or anything. Someone recommended the istick to me, but I wasn't sure how big it was. Is a 30w big enough for a kanger subtank mini, or should I choose a different subtank from them?

 

[93gc40]

What are you using for an atomizer NOW? Because with your Mech mod, that will help determine the TYPE of vaping you want to do.

I have and like the Kayfun style tank. They are easy to build the vape well and like ALL tanks if done correctly don't leak. I run my Kayfun on a Mech mod using a kick. I run 1.6-2ohm coils and set the kick at 8-10watts. When I feel like experimenting or want more than 1.5phm can provide. I pull the kick and build a subohm coil for either my dripper or the Kayfun. Some day I will get a real VV/VW device, But I'm happy with what I have. Although I am kicking around the idea of picking up a Genesis Tank.

 

[Hitmetwice]

This https://www.canvape.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=JOYEeCom2200 will fire down to 0.5 ohm and is only 19mm, in diameter. It is a bit lengthy though.

The ego one tanks are 19mm also and they are coming out with a rebuildable coil for them. No ETA. Cheers.

 

[Technonut]

Moved from Simple Solutions to RTA forum..

 

[Munnin42]

Right now, I a using an original TOBH, and I love it. After 3 other RBAs this one is my favorite, it's just not practical for going out in public and doing things outside.

 

[Munnin42]

Are Provaris still okay? they look like a mech but see to be something I can use with a tank...

 

[doofy666]

Is there a VV/VW that is shaped like a tube mech and is decent, like it will last longer then 6 months?

Vamo ought to last longer than 6 months.

 

[USMCotaku]

I like my zna50, it's kinda like a tube

It's the one on the right.
As far as kanger sub tanks, they haven't "fallen out of favor" at all.
Most of the leaking is caused by user error....improper build/wicking, over tightening compressing the seals too much, etc. I don't have leaking issues with mine.... When I first started rebuilding the occ heads I would get a bit of leaking.... Till I learned the way to wick them, and all leaking disappeared.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[roxynoodle]

Yes, Provaris are fine

 

[Munnin42]

You guys are so helpful! I found an istick 30w and a subtank mini for 72.00$ is this a good price? It's on myvaporstore.com

Next question, and I apologize for all the questions, I currently build at .8 ohms in my RDA, I don't know much about building single coils, but I learn quickly. Is .8 doable with this set up? Or is there a better range I should be aiming for?

 

[roxynoodle]

Probably, though single coils can certainly have good flavor at above 1 ohm as well. I build many of my RTAs above 1 ohm.

 

[doofy666]

I can't comment on the price, but this set up will perform fine at 0.8. The istick 30 fires from 0.4 up.

 

[Munnin42]

Sounds like that's the way I am going to go... and again a question :/ I have 26ga kanthol right now, will this be okay or should I get a thinner gauge?

 

[doofy666]

26ga is fine.

 

[ruet]

You guys are so helpful! I found an istick 30w and a subtank mini for 72.00$ is this a good price? It's on myvaporstore.com

Next question, and I apologize for all the questions, I currently build at .8 ohms in my RDA, I don't know much about building single coils, but I learn quickly. Is .8 doable with this set up? Or is there a better range I should be aiming for?

Sounds a tad high. You can get both (iStick is a full kit) from Mt. Baker Vapor for $60.06 before shipping. You need to use a code at checkout. I've used it and all was well.

Eleaf iStick 30 Watt - $30.70 | Best Vape Deals

 

[Munnin42]

Sounds a tad high. You can get both (iStick is a full kit) from Mt. Baker Vapor for $60.06 before shipping. You need to use a code at checkout. I've used it and all was well.

Eleaf iStick 30 Watt - $30.70 | Best Vape Deals

Thank you!!! I would have just assumed the price was good, and I always here good things about mt baker

 

[USMCotaku]

Sounds like that's the way I am going to go... and again a question :/ I have 26ga kanthol right now, will this be okay or should I get a thinner gauge?

For that sub tank, 26 gauge is what I use

 

[Munnin42]

For that sub tank, 26 gauge is what I use

Awesome! Thanks! I'm going to hit the order button now Thanks for all of your help EVERYONE! You guys have been amazing!