I made a calculator

[SLIPPY_EEL]

yep im still with you and have it in my sig and always tell people, its awsome matey

i bought some 25% ammonia and i wanted to get a certain percentage, i also wanted to make a certain amount of the ratio, is there a calculator i can use for this?
i worked it out in the end and made a ratio 4 to 1 ammonia, i was after 5%, but having something you can just enter ampounts for a result would be great for those times you just cant get your head around it
i also wanted to add a percentage to my Ucleaner and roughly worked out how many drop's, but roughly doesnt really cut it

help me out please

 

[100%VG]

Actually, it's the other way around. A "full wrap coil" goes N*360 degrees around the drill bit. A "half wrap coil" goes (N*360)±180 degrees around the drill bit. Well that was probably a terrible explanation, but I hope you get my drift anyway.

If you hover the mouse pointer over the "rounded to ..." labels, you should get a tooltip reminding you which way the legs will be pointing.

Your idea is not bad, though. and I'll consider adding it. Thanks for the feedback.

Your explanation was fine, your reply was really fast, and thank you for considering the idea. And thanks for the note about the Tooltips. I've noticed them now on other things, too.

 

[Dampmaskin]

yep im still with you and have it in my sig and always tell people, its awsome matey

i bought some 25% ammonia and i wanted to get a certain percentage, i also wanted to make a certain amount of the ratio, is there a calculator i can use for this?
i worked it out in the end and made a ratio 4 to 1 ammonia, i was after 5%, but having something you can just enter ampounts for a result would be great for those times you just cant get your head around it
i also wanted to add a percentage to my Ucleaner and roughly worked out how many drop's, but roughly doesnt really cut it

help me out please

Lol, brilliant idea, thanks for that. I'll rename the "juice" calculator to "Dilution" and make the labels flexible, so people can use it for ammonia and whatnot. I'll have to get rid of that mg/ml input, though.

A mode where you enter the amounts in millilitres and it shows you the resulting percentages shouldn't be too hard either. Which volume units of the imperial system are the most ubiquitous?

Your explanation was fine, your reply was really fast, and thank you for considering the idea. And thanks for the note about the Tooltips. I've noticed them now on other things, too.

I think I have figured out a way to do this without doing a whole bunch of calculations "backwards" again. I'll have a go at it one of these days.

 

[Dampmaskin]

There is a new colored icon in the results, that can give you a rough idea about the warmth of the vape. It ranges from blue (cold) via green (medium) to yellow (warm) and red (hot).

The vape is also affected by wicking, airflow and other factors beside the coil itself. If you are recoiling a clearomizer, aim for the cooler end of the spectrum. Choose warmer colors for RDAs or mesh wicked toppers.

 

[Dampmaskin]

The Internet wanted an app. I said "yeah sure bro ... I'll fix that ... later".

But the Internet persisted and the Internet insisted. I tried to buy myself some time, so I could pursue my hobby of just being plain lazy. "Yeah, I'll get to it within the end of the year ... or next year ..." but that just wasn't good enough for the Internet.

In fact, the Internet kept on poking and pinging me, and slapping me around a bit with a large trout, and it just wouldn't leave me alone until I gave it what it wanted.

So here you go, an Android thingy that works offline and costs money.

There is also this other Android thingy that doesn't cost money, but only works when you're online. To be honest, I don't quite see the point, since the experience is mostly the same as browsing Steam-Engine.org in your mobile browser. But tastes differ, and anyway, there's the option.

I hope you'll enjoy it.

BTW; In before the inevitable question: Sorry, but it will be very difficult for me to make an iPhone version. Unless someone buys me an iPhone to test with, that is.

 

[gel drops]

Steam engine has been around for some time..maybe I am missing something here but it took me to the steam engine page!

 

[Dampmaskin]

Yes, that's what the free version of the app does.

The paid version stores everything locally on your phone, so you can use it even if you're not connected to the Internet. This also makes calculators load faster, if speed is a concern.

The drawbacks with the paid version are that you cannot take advantage of online features like Google Translate, and that updates will be somewhat less frequent than when using the web pages.

Other than that, it's not all that different from opening Steam Engine in the browser on your Android device. But for reasons that I only partially understand, people wanted an app. So I gave them an app.

 

[Aal_]

Yes, that's what the free version of the app does.

The paid version stores everything locally on your phone, so you can use it even if you're not connected to the Internet. This also makes calculators load faster, if speed is a concern.

The drawbacks with the paid version are that you cannot take advantage of online features like Google Translate, and that updates will be somewhat less frequent than when using the web pages.

Other than that, it's not all that different from opening Steam Engine in the browser on your Android device. But for reasons that I only partially understand, people wanted an app. So I gave them an app.

Great app by the way. Full of features. I would suggest if you can make a native app for android instead of showing the html page. That would be more responsive I think.

 

[1mouse3]

for the steam engine, I have been noticing that wire resistance is off for A1 kanthal compared to what temco list them as.

 

[PaulBHC]

Thanks for the additional tabs for Battery Drain and Mods. I like to play with the numbers to better understand what I am doing and why others have different equipment and needs.

 

[Dampmaskin]

A few updates:

• There's been a tweak to the calculation of coil width, which is now based on the un-rounded number of wraps.
• Per 100%VG's request, the actual resistance is now stated next to the rounded number of wraps. (Better late than never, eh?)
• An unknown number of minor fixes and tweaks, and I'm still adding new mods and batteries to the presets in the other calculators from time to time.

Great app by the way. Full of features. I would suggest if you can make a native app for android instead of showing the html page. That would be more responsive I think.

I agree, but porting the whole thing to Java would be quite the task, even after I'd taught myself how to properly code Android apps. I have a full-time day job, and sometimes I even try to have a life, so while I won't say that it's never going to happen, I can say that it's going to be a while before I get there.

for the steam engine, I have been noticing that wire resistance is off for A1 kanthal compared to what temco list them as.

You're right, and that is odd because I'm pretty sure the number (1.45 Ohm mm2)/m is correct. If you know of a document where Temco states what specific resistivity they're basing their numbers on, I'd appreciate a link.

Thanks for the additional tabs for Battery Drain and Mods. I like to play with the numbers to better understand what I am doing and why others have different equipment and needs.

I'm glad you're finding it useful.

 

[Aal_]

A few updates:

• There's been a tweak to the calculation of coil width, which is now based on the un-rounded number of wraps.
• Per 100%VG's request, the actual resistance is now stated next to the rounded number of wraps. (Better late than never, eh?)
• An unknown number of minor fixes and tweaks, and I'm still adding new mods and batteries to the presets in the other calculators from time to time.

View attachment 392640


I agree, but porting the whole thing to Java would be quite the task, even after I'd taught myself how to properly code Android apps. I have a full-time day job, and sometimes I even try to have a life, so while I won't say that it's never going to happen, I can say that it's going to be a while before I get there.


You're right, and that is odd because I'm pretty sure the number (1.45 Ohm mm2)/m is correct. If you know of a document where Temco states what specific resistivity they're basing their numbers on, I'd appreciate a link.


I'm glad you're finding it useful.

Thanks man you are doing a great job.

 

[1mouse3]

here links to were resistance charts can be found for temco's kanthal an nichrome can be found

Kanthal A1
Kanthal D
Flat Ribbon Kanthal
nichrome

 

[mix1983]

So you created Steam Engine? I am indefinitely grateful!

 

[100%VG]

A few updates:

• There's been a tweak to the calculation of coil width, which is now based on the un-rounded number of wraps.
• Per 100%VG's request, the actual resistance is now stated next to the rounded number of wraps.
  (Better late than never, eh?)
• An unknown number of minor fixes and tweaks, and I'm still adding new mods and batteries to the presets in the other calculators from time to time.

View attachment 392640

I'm glad you're finding it useful.

Thank you so much, Dampmaskin. I use your website regularly. And knowing how much you have on your plate, it really didn't take all that long!

Thanks again!

 

[Dampmaskin]

If you want to get to know the advanced features of Steam Engine better, you might want to check out this. ECF member State O' Flux has written a guide to Steam Engine with a focus on heat flux.

Part 1, introduction - Steam Engine: From basic use to advanced features...

Part 2, heat flux - Steam Engine: From basic use to advanced features... Part Deux!!!

 

[saddlehorse blues]

Dampmaskin, your contribution to my successful builds has been incredible. You have helped me get years ahead of where I would be on my own. I have worked with hundreds of software programs over the years and can only think of a very few that I actually give a crap about, or that make a positive difference in my life. Not many people I would cut firewood for, but you are certainly one.

 

[100%VG]

Dampmaskin,

Was this post below from 1mouse3 not helpful? . . .

here links to were resistance charts can be found for temco's kanthal an nichrome can be found

Kanthal A1
Kanthal D
Flat Ribbon Kanthal
nichrome

This is an extract from TEMCo for A1 Round Kanthal (the first link above)...

I saw no mention of anything like (1.45 Ohm mm²)/m. Only Ohms/foot @ 68°F, which is weird because Kanthal A1 Round is rated at up to 1400°C, or 2550°F. And if you look at a spool link and read the info there, it says...
Temperature: The more heat the wire generates, the more resistance it will create.
You'll also find other info there, like Density and Specific Heat Capacity @ 68°F.
But I did not see the term Specific Resistivity.

If it makes it any easier for you to work with the info above, 1 foot (12 inches) = 304.8mm.
1 inch is precisely 25.4mm.
12 inches x (25.4mm/inch) = 304.8mm, or simply multiply 12 x 25.4
Conversely, to convert mm to inches, multiply mm x (1 inch/25.4mm), or simply divide mm by 25.4

For 29g at 0.0113 inch in diameter, the conversion is: 0.0113 inch x (25.4mm/inch) = 0.28702mm.
But you probably already know this.

I guess you could contact TEMCo at 510-490-2187 (Alaska, Hawaii, and International) and ask them about it, if you could make an International Call from Greece. Or Fax to 510-490-1507. Or send them an email to info@getpower.us Their office hours are Monday-Friday 5:30AM to 5:30PM PST (Pacific Standard Time in California, USA).

And I found this Kanthal Handbook PDF http://heatingelements.hitempproduc...l-Furnace-Mini-Handbook---Metric-version-.pdf
And this Review of Heating Elements used for Zirconium Fabrication that you can download.
The 2 links above talk about (1.45 Ohm mm²)/m and other specs.


I hope at least some of this is helpful.

 

[100%VG]

Or maybe people aren't paying enough attention to the Ohms that are listed on the calculator now, like in your example of the 10 full wraps at 1.76Ω, and 11/10 half wraps at 1.85Ω, and not seeing that 10.23 wraps would give 1.80Ω, or maybe not realizing what that means.

View attachment 392640

10.23 wraps could actually be attained by making that number of wraps and bending the leads from there to accommodate the posts/terminations. As long as the lead lengths are short to the posts/terminations (no longer than necessary), the resulting Ohms should be very close to what was desired when entered into the calculator. Setting the "Leg length (total)" will also change the 10.23 wraps to something else, up or down.

Personally, I have been getting Ohms that read what I was seeking on my Sigelei ZMax, Smok ZMax, and others, with some Mods reading a 0.1Ω difference when testing the same Coil/s and Tank (or RDA). The Ohm reader doesn't have the same accuracy from one type of Mod to another, or probably even between one brand of stand-alone Ohm Reader to another.

When building, I leave my microcoils on the drill bit I use to wrap them, then hold them tight by the coils on the drill bit, keeping the leads where they exit, while manipulating the position to mount them, and then mount them before they can spring loose and change the ohms. Then, if they are for a dual coil setup, I glow burn them, one at a time as I make them, while mounted in the posts of a rig I made and squeeze with pliers until they glow from the inside to the outside like they should. They maintain shape after that, for where they will be used. For my AGA-T2s with a single microcoil, I mount them, glow burn, and squeeze them in there. When mounted as dual coils where they will stay, I glow burn and squeeze them again, and wick them with whatever I'm using... generally organic cotton.

This may sound like more work, but I get great coils that last a very long time. And I can make coils in batches for later. I use the coil glow burn rig to make coils for friends, or when I need dual coils. I made this rig because my tanks are usually full of juice, and I don't want to tear out a good coil and wick when I need to make coils for friends, or dual coils for myself.

If anyone wants to look into making one, send me a PM. I didn't take pictures as I made it, but I can tell you how I did it and what I used.

 

[Dampmaskin]

Was this post below from 1mouse3 not helpful? . . .

It was mostly puzzling, to be honest.

As you may be aware, the calculator does not look up the resistance in a table, but calculates it from the specific resistivity (which is looked up in a table, one value for each wire material), the length of the wire, and the cross section area of the wire. All the sources that I've found, that state the specific resistivity of Kanthal™ A-1, agree that the number is 1.45 ohm mm²/m (at 20 degrees C, which is the standard temperature for specifications, which I think is OK since Kanthal has an almost negligible temperature coefficient of resistance at the temperatures relevant to vaping).

The Temco source has a narrower scope; some specific gauges of Kanthal A-1 wire from a specific manufacturer. I suspect that their number may either contain some rounding error(s) from their own calculation, or perhaps more likely, is based on measurements of their actual wires, which are probably subject to slight variations or idiosyncracies in their manufacturing process, or simply in the way Temco determine their specifications.

If I was to use Temco's numbers in the coil calculator, I would have to "reverse engineer" their stats in order to figure out a specific resistivity for the material. This I feel would introduce even more potential for rounding errors, and perhaps make the calculator less accurate in regards to Kanthal A-1 from other manufacturers.

What it boils down to, is that I don't know what factors Temco may have taken into their number. Therefore I would feel less comfortable using it, than the more "ideal" or general number that I've found elsewhere.