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I shot my cartomizer full of holes.

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Mindfield

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I've been unhappy with the performance of Boge XXLs. Even double-punched, they were good for maybe half a day, and then they started tasting bland, ultimately starting to taste terrible after two or three days, tops - even in a glass tank, even with topping up the carto manually. Something about these just don't absorb juice readily enough to keep the coil stocked with enough juice.

So I did the only thing I could. I shot one full of holes.

4E7A0418-BFF7-42CA-B43F-71086FF39D43-5073-000003DEC3704171.jpg


Four, to be exact. One at each cardinal direction. (Two others appear on the other side of the carto in that image.) It seems to be working -- the coil is finally getting enough juice to keep it stocked and tasting good, and it hasn't flooded yet, and I've been at this more than half a day now, pretty much hitting in constantly. It's more of a juice hog now, but that was sort of the point.

We'll see how it stands up over the next few days.
 

Battlelance

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Neat looking little tank you have there. Are the Boge XXLs DCs?

I've always wondered why all the videos on youtube showing how to punch a tank only show punching near the bottom of the tank, even on a DC. I haven't tried it because I only have a stubby, but wouldn't it make sense to puch at the bottom and the top so a full tank will soak from the top down?
 

Mindfield

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Neat looking little tank you have there.

That's a basic glass carto tank from 505vapor.com [review]. $16 plus shipping, can't go wrong. :)

Are the Boge XXLs DCs?

No, single coil, just in a 45mm form factor instead of the usual 35mm Boges. I don't think Boge does DC.

I've always wondered why all the videos on youtube showing how to punch a tank only show punching near the bottom of the tank, even on a DC. I haven't tried it because I only have a stubby, but wouldn't it make sense to puch at the bottom and the top so a full tank will soak from the top down?

Only to a degree. Once the liquid level dropped below the top hole(s) they'd be largely useless unless you want to periodically give the tank a barrel roll until the juice dropped too low to even reach the carto on its side. It's one of the reasons I haven't really bothered with DCs in a long time; in a tank or by itself, the top coil ends up being semi-useless half the time unless you keep topping up, and the minor advantage of the second coil hasn't really made it worthwhile to bother with for me. Singles work quite well on their own as long as they're well-stocked with juice. Single-coil SmokTech stubbies worked fantastic for me and I plan on buying more; the only reason I've been experimenting with these Boge XXLs is because I'm out of stubbies and have Boges on hand.
 

r77r7r

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    Lol, I have the reverse problem- Can't get Smoketech's to work. With them tho, even soaked, they give me dry hits. Go figure.

    My Boges need good sized holes, wouldn't work with those little laser drilled. Maybe that's why they work better for me- they have xtra packing in so they can keep the coil wet.

    I imagine that you're working with 60%PG or more.
     

    Mindfield

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    i've been finding the boge XXL's aren't soaking properly either..I always have to pull the carto down and fill from the top..going to try what you did and see..certainly can't hurt..

    It seems like 4 holes keeps the liquid pressure up on all sides of the carto, so there are no potentially dry spots inside. With the filler as seemingly packed as it is, it seems to need this additional pressure all around in order to get juice to all sides of the coil. At least, that's my theory, and seems to be holding true so far. The tight packing also seems to be what's stopping it from flooding -- four holes seems to be just enough pressure from enough directions to soak the entire carto, at least around the coil.

    Lol, I have the reverse problem- Can't get Smoketech's to work. With them tho, even soaked, they give me dry hits. Go figure.

    I had that problem with SmokTechs a year ago, but the stubbies I've been getting from Canvape seem to be working really well, surprisingly enough.

    My Boges need good sized holes, wouldn't work with those little laser drilled. Maybe that's why they work better for me- they have xtra packing in so they can keep the coil wet.

    I imagine that you're working with 60%PG or more.

    Nope, 70PG/30VG, my normal blend. With higher VG I might have to punch enough holes you could give it a pearl necklace. (I real pearl necklace, not ... that kind.)

    Your problem my vaping friends is not how many holes you have but the fact that your using carto's at all :p

    Genesis!

    I am utterly hopeless at making a proper Genesis coil. I've tried and tried and it just doesn't work out. However, the latest experiments Scubabatdan has been doing with porous ceramic and airstones looks really promising, and I'd like to try my hand at it as soon as I can find a pet store that sells the right airstones.
     

    chagrin

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    The last time I tried a cartomizer I kept increasing the size of 2 holes and still had dry hits, I didn't have enough cartos or patience to try 4 holes and I was worried about flooding. I'd be interested to see if you have flooding issues in a day or two. Perhaps the filler material is more dense than it used to be.

    Is that tank on a Vamo ? Have you looked at ibtanked tanks before Mindfield ? Those were previously the cheapest pyrex tanks I've heard of and look like they come in smaller diameters.
     

    Projectguy

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    I am utterly hopeless at making a proper Genesis coil. I've tried and tried and it just doesn't work out. However, the latest experiments Scubabatdan has been doing with porous ceramic and airstones looks really promising, and I'd like to try my hand at it as soon as I can find a pet store that sells the right airstones.

    No one is "utterly hopeless at making a proper Genesis coil".

    The trick is proper instruction:

    The first is Mike Morgan's video on the 35 second perfect coil zenesis coil basics - YouTube

    The second is the fail safe for clearing any hotspots which is the pulse fire method. Don't have a video on that yet but the quick and dirty is to ripid fire the coil (DRY) thereby oxidizing the hotspots progressively until the are all cleared. The check is a sustained fire of the coil (DRY) to look for the even glow. Thanks SloHand for the Pulse Fire Method for Clearing Hotspots (the "PuFiMeCH").
     

    Projectguy

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    I shot holes in my XXL's too, threw them on the floor and then stomped them with my heel.
    They don't work! Do you think I went too far? :D

    Actually not far enough.

    Cartos are an excellent source of insulators for the wick hole in a Zen style mod. So next time use the Dremel and cut all that extraneous metal away (save the metal tube for a wind chime) tear out the packing material and presto there it is as a sleeve on the wire. Remove carefully and you should have enough for 2 wick holes.
     

    Mindfield

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    I shot holes in my XXL's too, threw them on the floor and then stomped them with my heel.
    They don't work! Do you think I went too far? :D

    If your destination was beating them to a pulp and shaming them, then you went exactly as far as you needed to. :)

    The last time I tried a cartomizer I kept increasing the size of 2 holes and still had dry hits, I didn't have enough cartos or patience to try 4 holes and I was worried about flooding. I'd be interested to see if you have flooding issues in a day or two. Perhaps the filler material is more dense than it used to be.

    That's sort of what I've been thinking. Liquid takes longer to soak into these than most other cartos so it must be packed pretty densely.

    Is that tank on a Vamo ?

    Yep, seems to suit it very well.

    Have you looked at ibtanked tanks before Mindfield ? Those were previously the cheapest pyrex tanks I've heard of and look like they come in smaller diameters.

    They're still a bit pricey when you factor in the cost of the caps. They're quite nice though.

    No one is "utterly hopeless at making a proper Genesis coil".

    The trick is proper instruction:

    The first is Mike Morgan's video on the 35 second perfect coil zenesis coil basics - YouTube

    The second is the fail safe for clearing any hotspots which is the pulse fire method. Don't have a video on that yet but the quick and dirty is to ripid fire the coil (DRY) thereby oxidizing the hotspots progressively until the are all cleared. The check is a sustained fire of the coil (DRY) to look for the even glow. Thanks SloHand for the Pulse Fire Method for Clearing Hotspots (the "PuFiMeCH").

    I'll give it another shot, maybe this weekend. I've got some well-oxidized 400 mesh rolled and ready, but I kept popping coils and I couldn't figure out why. Just that one hotspot at the top where the wire leaves the coil to stretch over to the positive terminal. Even at low voltage, fire it up and it just goes pop. It never did that before, and it's pretty standard 32AWG Kanthal.
     

    larktdl

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    I've been unhappy with the performance of Boge XXLs. Even double-punched, they were good for maybe half a day, and then they started tasting bland, ultimately starting to taste terrible after two or three days, tops - even in a glass tank, even with topping up the carto manually. Something about these just don't absorb juice readily enough to keep the coil stocked with enough juice.

    So I did the only thing I could. I shot one full of holes.

    4E7A0418-BFF7-42CA-B43F-71086FF39D43-5073-000003DEC3704171.jpg


    Four, to be exact. One at each cardinal direction. (Two others appear on the other side of the carto in that image.) It seems to be working -- the coil is finally getting enough juice to keep it stocked and tasting good, and it hasn't flooded yet, and I've been at this more than half a day now, pretty much hitting in constantly. It's more of a juice hog now, but that was sort of the point.

    We'll see how it stands up over the next few days.

    I like to mix things up a bit when it comes to vaping: I am not a fan of cartos but if you like this setup then I might give it a try (again).
    What is it that you are using .... tank type, carto type (Boge xxls). What do you use to punch the carts? (I assume the punching tool available from VG will work).
     

    Mindfield

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    I like to mix things up a bit when it comes to vaping: I am not a fan of cartos but if you like this setup then I might give it a try (again).

    Well, keep in mind that I did this because I was frustrated precisely because it wasn't satisfying prior to just going mental punching holes. To be honest, the 35mm stubby SmokTechs from Canvape worked just as well or better right out of the box -- this was a move of desperation. That being said however it is working really well so far -- one full day on, where by now a simple two-punch deal would have started tasting flat already with these cartos.

    What is it that you are using .... tank type, carto type (Boge xxls). What do you use to punch the carts? (I assume the punching tool available from VG will work).

    The tank is the $16 glass tank (standard size) from 505vapor.com. Punch was a self-tapping saddle valve, with some after-care using a set of pliers to squeeze down slight deformities so I wouldn't have a hassle sliding it in through the tank's endcaps. Don't bother with the SmokTech carto punch. It punches without much deformation, but the screw it comes with dulls after a few punches and if you keep trying to use it while dull you'll eventually strip the threads to uselessness, as I did.
     

    MisterMike

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    I'll give it another shot, maybe this weekend. I've got some well-oxidized 400 mesh rolled and ready, but I kept popping coils and I couldn't figure out why. Just that one hotspot at the top where the wire leaves the coil to stretch over to the positive terminal. Even at low voltage, fire it up and it just goes pop. It never did that before, and it's pretty standard 32AWG Kanthal.

    Those hotspots used to be the bane of my existence, too. I'm surprised you're popping coils even at low voltage, though. Are you dry-firing on your Provari? It throws a tantrum if things get too much for it; can be frustrating, but it's helped me learn how to wrap a really good coil. I've only ever popped one coil on the Provari and that was after three weeks of use.

    One trick I've found that works really well is when you notice a hotspot starting to happen, blow on it while you continue to fire the device. It won't work immediately (Usually takes me 4-5 rounds) but the moving air will keep the coil temperature down a bit so it doesn't pop and will also help oxidize the coil better. At least that's how I've worked it out in this noggin o' mine.

    If that doesn't help, try to give your mesh a quarter-turn and fire it up again.

    If it still doesn't work, try to resist the urge to test the atomizer's durability against your wall. ;)
     

    larktdl

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    Well, keep in mind that I did this because I was frustrated precisely because it wasn't satisfying prior to just going mental punching holes. To be honest, the 35mm stubby SmokTechs from Canvape worked just as well or better right out of the box -- this was a move of desperation. That being said however it is working really well so far -- one full day on, where by now a simple two-punch deal would have started tasting flat already with these cartos.



    The tank is the $16 glass tank (standard size) from 505vapor.com. Punch was a self-tapping saddle valve, with some after-care using a set of pliers to squeeze down slight deformities so I wouldn't have a hassle sliding it in through the tank's endcaps. Don't bother with the SmokTech carto punch. It punches without much deformation, but the screw it comes with dulls after a few punches and if you keep trying to use it while dull you'll eventually strip the threads to uselessness, as I did.

    Thanks for the info ...
     

    Projectguy

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    I'll give it another shot, maybe this weekend. I've got some well-oxidized 400 mesh rolled and ready, but I kept popping coils and I couldn't figure out why. Just that one hotspot at the top where the wire leaves the coil to stretch over to the positive terminal. Even at low voltage, fire it up and it just goes pop. It never did that before, and it's pretty standard 32AWG Kanthal.

    Remember the pulsing is exactly that pulsing, for about a minute then a sustained fire to check.

    The pulsing should fix the top hotspot other issues could be: incomplete oxidation at the top of the mesh wick or a stray wire at the screw connection.

    I've seen a video tip, part of a demonstration of the (I think) the Peter Kay method of wrapping a coil using a drill bit inserted inside the wick hole was to crimp the top and bottom wraps so that there was an angle in the wire departing from the mesh to each of the screws.

    Hope this is helpful
     
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