You can get glass protanks (the origional) for $3.99 ea at Goodejuice.
It is what I got for my citrus juices.
iClear16's breaking
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It is what I got for my citrus juices.
You're welcome. I know that there are cheaper models out there, but I was very impressed with both of those and they've been very reliable. Let us know how it all turns out!
standard simple small lowcost startup glass tank is the miniprotank2.
if you get the miniaerotank or the nautilus I think they come with dual coils;
if you want to save money by rewicking your coils, you'd want to look at single coils;
if you get the dual coils, you might still be able to rewick, but I dunno for sure.
You can just rebuild them to a single coil. It's not a big deal and you have a bit more room to play with. I've done quite a few. I've tried the protank 1 and 2 and the aerotanks, and the nautilus mini and the Aspire pyrex clearo. Out of those small ones, the nautilus mini wins, with the aerotanks coming second.
What is shown in the picture isn't bulging. It's epoxy. The bulging was a softening and warping of the black tip as I described in the original post. Sorry for any misunderstanding.i have used iclear16's for one and a half years.
i have never experienced the bulging you show
nor have heard of it before.
in my experience over time pressure cracks will
form where the plastic tank meets the upper and lower
metal cowling. more so on the bottom.
i have seen dis-configuration of the inner lining due
to chemical reactions but,never bulging.
it appears to me a very high heat was applied to
get that bulging effect.
its clear that normal operation with the appropriate
hardware didn't.
regards
mike
The Kanger mini Protank 3 comes closest to the Iclears in terms of juice capacity.
I kinda like the K1 from Aspire. Cheaper than a Protank Mini, unless the price has dropped since I last looked at them (well over a year ago). Plus, in my opinion, the Aspire BVC coils are more consistent in performance than Kanger heads. Ever since Chinese New Year last year, Kanger clearomizer heads really took a nose-dive in quality and consistency.
I use mainly tobacco and menthol vapes. The menthol is pretty mild. I get mine from smokeless image.
Can that epoxy come into contact with your juice through the cracks or whatever? Sounds a bit dodgy to me.
If your juice is melting the plastic, the epoxy fix is a no-no. The problem is not just the mechanical breakdown of the tank, but also the fact that you'll wind up vaping melted plastic goo (and the epoxy won't help that).
ok.
then its something in the juice.
lemon and cinnamon are known to do that.
they usually scorch the clear plastic but,
i have had a couple of tips melt.
instead of epoxy around the bottom of
the tank i thin out some regular Elmers
glue with water.not to much water though.
just thin enough to get between the plastic
and metal ring. two light coats.
i figure if its safe enough for children
to eat it shouldn't be a problem in the
unlikely event it might get into the juice.
for a better idea of whats melting your tips
go to the search function here and search
the term "tank crackers".
regards
mike
Your juice is causing the plastic to degrade. I can recommend the Aspire K1's. Inexpensive, glass, & bottom feed organic cotton coils, ego threaded, good flavor & vapor. Well, as good as your mod & juice will allow. Same size as the ones that are melting on you. They work very well with those 1300mah batteries you like, too. Be careful when ordering coils, the clones aren't reliable at all. Check the authentication codes on the boxes at the Aspire site before you even open them. Also be careful when ordering coils that you don't order the ones for the 2 Nautilus tanks. The K1's use a smaller coil. Looks the same but is much smaller.
The iclear 16 tanks are made of polycarbonate plastic. Certain flavors react with that plastic which breaks down their chemical structure.
Sour apple (granny smith) and Cinnamon are known tank cracking flavors.
Something Safe for Cinnamon & Citrus Flavors
The pictures above do not show bulging, that is epoxy as I described in the original post. The "swelling" I referred to was on the base of the black tip we use to draw the juice. Where it touches the white cap it swells and becomes soft and pliable. From what I have read above this does happen with certain juices all of which I use unfortunately. You described the cracking perfectly as I experience it. Cracking at the base where it meets the metal. That is where I have placed epoxy until I can get another glass type Clearomizer to replace them or I run out of all the spare heads I wasted money on for the iclear16's. I decided to go with the Aspire k1 and the Nautilus minis to see which I prefer. Thank you for your input.
It took a page and a half to mention the insanity of using epoxy on this thing? Epoxy catalysts are generally corrosive at best, and carcinogenic or mutagenic at worst.
Please get a new clearo while you sort out where to go next. $10/week isn't worth the vile toxins you may be inhaling.
Please get a new clearo while you sort out where to go next. $10/week isn't worth the vile toxins you may be inhaling.
Sooner or later, polycarbonate pressed into a metal ring will come apart.
Metal conducts some of the heat from the coil, expands differently than the plastic, gradually loosening the joint. Vaping known tankbusters in them shortens their lifespan drastically.
Wouldn't scoff at them, though. Good return for the money invested, even when they zonk out. Thats why using glue or epoxy fo fix them isn't worth the hassle.
The chems present in glue or epoxy... might just as well take up smoking again then
Metal conducts some of the heat from the coil, expands differently than the plastic, gradually loosening the joint. Vaping known tankbusters in them shortens their lifespan drastically.
Wouldn't scoff at them, though. Good return for the money invested, even when they zonk out. Thats why using glue or epoxy fo fix them isn't worth the hassle.
The chems present in glue or epoxy... might just as well take up smoking again then
i have used iclear16's for one and a half years.
i have never experienced the bulging you show
nor have heard of it before.
in my experience over time pressure cracks will
form where the plastic tank meets the upper and lower
metal cowling. more so on the bottom.
i have seen dis-configuration of the inner lining due
to chemical reactions but,never bulging.
it appears to me a very high heat was applied to
get that bulging effect.
its clear that normal operation with the appropriate
hardware didn't.
regards
mike
the "bulging" in the picture is the lensing effect from the epoxy... rather clear epoxy at that
Not so much on these. I have some common sense. These were epoxied prior to a crack forming. This was a preventative measure which has little to no chance of getting into my liquid. If your the kind of pushy holier then thou person I think you might be I'll be patiently awaiting your response.
No it was epoxied before a crack appeared. I'll watch for problems and am sure I'll be fine. Thank you
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