Yes and no; we're actually using a number of these terms rather loosely. But putting all that aside, what matters is whether the output of the looks like a relatively flat line on a scope (relatively clean DC), or whether it looks all chopped up, especially if that chopping happens at a low enough frequency to make it noticeable to the user when he's vaping. The Provari, dna mods, and the MVP (and even the VV) all produce reasonably flat DC (despite the fact that there's "PWM" going on inside of them somewhere). Many of the other cheap VV/VW devices produce "chopped" DC, with many (but not all) using a 33.3 Hz PWM frequency to control their output voltage.
If not a Provari, then what?
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Thanks all. I wasn't sure if the OP got an answer that was clear enough for someone with 42 posts. I hope she comes back with her decision.
Honestly, the MVP you ordered will be a good ProVari substitute. I couldn't afford a new ProVari at the time I got mine, so I bought a used ProVari from the ECF classifieds.
I was reading this thread with the intention to post those very things baditude. Your a damn hero 'round these parts.
My other "go to" mod is a Reo, but it doesn't meet your criteria and the price is up there as well. Of my less expensive mods my favorite is the Bobo. It's essentially a Sigelei Zmax (version 2, I believe) in a limited edition body. I have never tried a "regular" Zmax, but the Bobo uses the same chip and OLED screen and if it's any indication of the quality in the standard edition I would be very impressed. As it is, the solid feel, and ease of use blows my Vamo out of the water.
The Sigelei Zmax is available as a telescopic and has three size configurations, but if size isn't important to you (it's not to me, most of my mods are small) Sigelei makes a mini Zmax in pretty colors.
Thinking of the flat line on the O-scope, I take it that the Provari, MVP2, DNA are the most consistent DC power flow. Anyone run across any others?
At 6 volts, VTR output is flat. With a 2.4Ω coil, I get my 15 watts.
Any mod that uses PWM has a flat voltage signal when it's adjusted to the top of it's scale.
Only devices like a Sigelei or Vamo using stacked 18350's show PWM when you adjust it to top of scale.
Of course it should go without saying that the closer you are to the upper voltage setting of a device, the less noticable the PWM is, because the device is staying on for longer and longer portions of the duty cycle.
I was under that impression as well; so why all the hubbub about flat signal? Set your mod to max, and use your coil to compensate. Right?
edit: I only use the VTR as an example everywhere because it's the only mod I have so far.
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Kinda defeats the point of having a variable voltage or variable wattage mod now, doesn't it.....
Agrees with this postKinda defeats the point of having a variable voltage or variable wattage mod now, doesn't it.....
I don't necessarily disagree.
But you can't always have your cake and eat it, too...
But you can't always have your cake and eat it, too...
So, if you used higher resistance toppers, the duty cycles would be longer for any given wattage (greater voltage). So is it safe to say that the rattlesnake effect would be less?
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Other way around, use a high resistance topper so you can crank the voltage up to maximum without exceeding the amp limit of the device.
To answer the OP's question, I'd probably use an eGo twist and eat cheap until I saved enough for a ProVari. I figure in about a month, I'd be able to buy the ProVari.
I knew that! .....and as I was typing I was thinking that it didn't sound right. I'm sick and I'm blaming it on my fever.
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