JohnD:
Great!!! Off to order some vivi nova's!!! But which ohm? And which ohm-age with a provari may I ask? Any other accessories needed to make work? Hate missing a part like a drip tip/mouthpiece or something.
What's wrong with long answers btw??? I'm grateful for everyone's help/input!!!!
The new tanks are confusing me! Like the phiniac....it's just the holder right? You need to order an atty in addition to make work, correct?
Yep, in this meaning of the term "tank", the tank is what holds the liquid, and the punched or slotted cartomizer is stuck right through the middle of it and obviously screws into the 510 connection. The tank is pretty much "wearing" the tank.
I found the earlier post:
*****
"To me, cartos in tanks are a solid ally in the war against cigarettes. Yes, there are better weapons, but this one is basic and reliable. [And now, I prefer the easier-IMO-to-use Vivi Nova, especially for beginners].
I'm watching a war movie right now - July 4, 2012. A platoon will have many different weapons carried by different guys. In WW2, a squad in a platoon might have had a guy with a BAR (Browning Automatic Rifle), a guy with a bazooka, a couple of guys with a light machine gun, and maybe a guy with a flame-thrower if they were on a Pacific island. All the other guys would likely be carrying the 30-06 caliber M1 Garand semi-automatic rifle, the main infantry weapon of the war. Reliable, basic, and effective.
There are plenty of better-perfoming attachments out there, but to me, a Boge single-coil carto (of a resistance suitable to the voltage and amp limit of your device) inside a Smoktech 3.5ml DCT tank is the M1 Garand in the war on cigarettes. If you can outfit your squad with the more advanced weapons, great. But make sure there are plenty of M1's around too.
This is from a post I just made in another thread, where the OP is starting out with Joyetech Twists, Smoktech tanks/cartos, a Vivi Nova or two, and maybe some clearos.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...aying-hi-looking-pointed-right-direction.html
Tips and tricks:
When filling your cartos and tanks: (After slotting it of course), lubricate the carto with a bit of juice and slide it up into the bottom of the tank, leaving enough room between the top of it and the top cap so you can squeeze in some juice without dumping any directly into the carto. That said, then drip about 15-20 drops directly into the top of the carto. Fill the tank as full as you can without having the level in the tank overflow into the carto, then slide the carto all the way up into and through the top cap.
THEN WAIT until a drop or two of juice finally drips out the 510 connector on the bottom of the carto. (During the waiting period, you can go ahead and add more drops - maybe as much as 10-15 more - but making sure that the carto doesn't develop any signs of "standing" liquid at the top surface of the polyfill. Pretty much fill it like you would water a houseplant; moist, but not soggy. This is very important for a great draw and great hit "right out of the box"). You do not want to put power to the coil before the carto is nice and moist; once the polyfill is scorched, it can't be unscorched. (I came up with that all by myself).

As the carto "stabilizes", you'll see little bubbles coming out of the slot.
When you need to refill the tank, just pull the carto back down a bit, leaving the same gap as before between the top of the carto and the bottom of the top cap, and fill 'er up. Be careful not to pull the tank away from the bottom cap in the process. Been there, done that, cleaned up that mess. And again, be careful not to pour any juice directly into the top of the carto. After using these tanks for about half a year, I just did that again yesterday. When (not if) it does happen, just go ahead and fill the tank (after mildly swearing and oulling th carto down a bit further), and then blow through the drip tip to help remove the xcess juice that has now flooded it. After a few gentle hits that will get some juice into your mouth, the carto should begin to draw nicely again.
After maybe a few days (some lucky users say a week or more), the carto will become increasingly hard to draw through. At that point, simply put a new, properly-slotted one in. Regardless of the juice level in the tank, what I do is to simply invert the tank, push the new carto in through what is now the bottom of the tank, driving the old carto out through what is now the top of the tank. Presto.
Yes, the tanks are intended to have a top cap and a bottom cap, and might or might not have functional design elements on the "bottom" cap that would engage the flat spots on a flanged carto, but at best they barely work anyway, so I just ignore that feature and enjoy the luxury of being able to swap cartos so easily. I rarely have a problem unscrewing an unflanged carto and tank from the 510 connection, but if one does become stuck, just gently grip the top of the carto where it protrudes from the tank with a pair of pliers and turn it right out. Keeping the trim piece screwed tightly down on the 510 connectors reduces the chances of it acting like a lock nut.
Slotting cartos:
I recommend getting a little tube of 36 "Dremel Cut-Off Wheel No. 409" down at the local hardware store. They are 1mm thick, and do a very nice job. They are also EXTREMELY brittle, and if you're not careful, you will go through more of them through breaking than through their intended purpose. DO NOT leave the arbor with cut-off wheel mounted on the Dremel (or equivalent) when you're not using it. DO NOT ask me how I know this. Also consider getting a spare arbor for when you lose the little screw. Backup, backup backup.
When cutting the slot, there's obviously a trade-off between maximizing tank capacity (slot down low) and having it too damn low (insufficient juice flow into the carto). Have I made a jig yet to uniformly slot my cartos? Of course not. That would be far too sensible, and would require effort. For now, I mark them with a fine Sharpie, and err slightly on the high side.
A PBusardo Tutorial - How I slot my cartos!.wmv - YouTube pbusardo slotting cartos