Sledge hammer and sharp chisel? Did I miss that method!!!
That's how I have to do it or I can't crank the wattage up that muchI do it the same way that you described bman. Like in my post on p41.
I don't know what cotton bacon is but if it's like native wicks its price gouged supima cotton.
I don't buy any branded cotton because you get ripped off on it. Just like all the guys that got ganked on the gplat special wire. What a damn joke that turned out to be
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
That's dependent on how you wick with rayon too though.I don't have any break in time,right from the start all i taste is my juice.I definitely agree though,i could never go back to cotton after my first try with rayon.The first time i tried it a year ago,i gave all my cotton to my wife to use for her makeup haha.Another advantage to properly wicked rayon is the longer time between rewicking,i've went as as far as 150ml before needing to rewick.On the wicking issue, two words: Rayon! Wait, that's only one word... I dunno, guys. I don't wick cotton. But it seems to me rayon is less susceptible to choking because it doesn't swell when wet. I also think it does better fluid transport because the fibers are continuous. (And tastes better after break in, but others disagree about that.)
in my personal case, it would be because Cotton Bacon is not rayon. I don't think it wicks as well, I find it harder to work with, it burns too easily, it has to be changed too often, and I think it mutes flavor. YMMV, of course.Why no cotton bacon v2 love? I really like it and easy to work with.
After the gplat thing was figured out its really hard to believe that anything is special in the vape market. Cotton is cotton, they find something like supima cotton put native wicks name on it and mark it up thru the roof. I'm sure that's the same thing that's going on with cotton bacon i just don't know what it is for sure because I've never looked into it.
try that in 28 andvit will rock. Mines wearing a 4/5 in 28 for .32 ohms.Dual parallel 26 6 wrap....coming out at .23 on the sigelei. Running it at 80 watts.....not bad gonna do another build after dinner this is a lil too low for me, I prefer .3ish and a lil longer pull timeView attachment 519742

Any suggestions on the leaking? Maybe more rayon but I have it pretty tight in the coils already. Or maybe cut it long and fold it to ensure it is stuffed by the juice holes?
somewhere above is a link for the grub screws you need to replace the factory ones. I'm on my tab and don't have it handy. And yeah, try more wick. Using rayon, bring the wick straight down to the deck from the coil ends, then out the juice channels. Install the barrel, then trim the wicks close. Wet the wick with juice and stuff the excess back into the channel. I suggest you leave the lower tank seal on the base during wicking. Sometimes installing the glass with the lower seal on it will bunch the wick in the channel, making a hole for leaks and undoing your careful stuffing job.I got my MT about a week now. Been through 4 builds on it using Ti with 26ga and 24ga and was a very frustrating experience with it since Xmas. I was not able to hold resistance on it no matter what I initially tried. The screws are crap to hold the wire and it keeps on getting loose no matter what I tried. I kept rebuilding thinking something I did was wrong but even with a meticulous build it couldn't hold resistance steady. I never had a problem like this with a dozen or so different attys of all types. It also leaked like a crazy after a fill and for a while afterwards. Then I started examining the 510 pin. It looked ok but I thought I might just unscrew it a turn and see what happens. It was just amazing and resistance was stable allowing it to be vaped, and a great vape it has been since. Without doing that it would not hold resistance on my SXM or on my Reuleaux DNA200 mods and I never had that experience with anything else.
I have settled in with dual 24ga Ti, 6 1/2 wraps on a 6-32 screw, about 2.7mm, and using rayon stuffed tight in the coil and with no haircut just placed into the juice channels until it touches the bottom. Resistance is around .110 ohms and quite steady after screwing the hell out of those crappy screws and checking them over and over again adjusting almost every time until I finally got them solid and not breaking the wire.
The vapor and flavor production is stellar I must say but I have not solved the leaking problem after filling. I give about 20% air space and fill with the airflow closed. Put on the cap and when almost a turn left quickly flip it and tighten it down and open up the airflow again. I have been using this tank with fully open airflow. I hold it upside down about 5 seconds before flipping it and then it is wipe up time. I am using 80% VG but that stuff always finds its way through the air holes. Not as much as it was at first, but for about 5 mins of vaping time I have to keep wiping it up as it very slowly keeps seeping out.
As for those damn post screws, I ordered a set of grub screws on eBay that were posted earlier and hope that will help when they come. I just think the threads are too coarse and should have been a finer threading for the build deck. But despite the issues, I am loving the vapor and flavor out of this tank. It does drink up juice like crazy and had it not been that I DIY, it would break me with probably a dozen tanks I have gone through in a day or so.
Any suggestions on the leaking? Maybe more rayon but I have it pretty tight in the coils already. Or maybe cut it long and fold it to ensure it is stuffed by the juice holes?
I will say that this thread has been so busy it has been quite a challange to keep up but finally did so today. Whew!!!![]()
I will give that a try when putting it back together. Thanks! As far as the grub screws, I ordered them last night from eBay and they have already shipped. It has to make things better than those crappy screws that came with the atty.somewhere above is a link for the grub screws you need to replace the factory ones. I'm on my tab and don't have it handy. And yeah, try more wick. Using rayon, bring the wick straight down to the deck from the coil ends, then out the juice channels. Install the barrel, then trim the wicks close. Wet the wick with juice and stuff the excess back into the channel. I suggest you leave the lower tank seal on the base during wicking. Sometimes installing the glass with the lower seal on it will bunch the wick in the channel, making a hole for leaks and undoing your careful stuffing job.
fwiw, I set my coil inner diameter to 3.5mm to gain as much wick as possible.I will give that a try when putting it back together. Thanks! As far as the grub screws, I ordered them last night from eBay and they have already shipped. It has to make things better than those crappy screws that came with the atty.![]()
I had some 2.5mmX5mm grubs already on hand and changed out the crappy screws before doing my first build. Works quite well.I will give that a try when putting it back together. Thanks! As far as the grub screws, I ordered them last night from eBay and they have already shipped. It has to make things better than those crappy screws that came with the atty.![]()