• Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers

    Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?

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Indulgence Mt-Rta

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haleysdadda

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I swap their positions every cycle JIC.
The water stays hotter at max capacity with 2 120s & 2 60s
I refresh it with HOT water for every cycle.
I always use glass. I read about BPA leaching before I even started so figure why chance it.
I don't know if all of our juice bottles produce it but IDGAS. No plastic in my USC.

Glass should work better anyway.
It'll transfer UC waves better while plastic would soften their effectiveness IMO

I let the bottles aerate during cooling cycles and overnight in a shoebox but rarely vape it within a week.
Friends say it's good to go the very next day after making it but I like it better with a steep.

What is BPA? Should I be worried about it? - Mayo Clinic
Those BPA-free plastics you thought were safe? Think again.
The Facts About Bisphenol A
Bisphenol A - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I did my first batch in glass yesterday and vaped it first thing this a.m. & it's really good! I just changed from plastic because it was leaving a funky taste that went away but still! I left the top off while cycling this time & that seemed to work for me!
 

suprtrkr

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Maybe thats my problem then cause I think I have a .17 in hers. It is wicked horseshoe though. To me the wick gives out to fast compared to horizontal with each end of the coil having its own tail aka I get too many dry ended hits lol.
I'd say so, lol. But in the .5Ω, 25 watt range, they're incomparable for flavor.
 

Adam harris

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just now getting it through rayon break in--I switch mods too much-- but they hit very well. I'm running it on the SX at 40 watts. It doesn't want to go higher because the ID is too small for juice transport. I first built a set of parallel 4 wrap tigers for it, which would have been beastly, but I couldn't get them in the barrel. (Sigh)


Oh nice! Is it kind of like twisted coils?
 

dshuld

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Jan 7, 2016
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Hi guys,

Anyone else have the problem of the chimney piece coming apart? The piece where they are press fitted together. My wife dropped her mod one time and it came apart. Ever since then, it'll come apart easily which is annoying when it's a full tank. What have you guys done to fix it?

Thanks!

I have the mutank so mine is threaded but I believe someone had mentioned they just pushed the mt chimey back together with their hands.
 

suprtrkr

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Hi guys,

Anyone else have the problem of the chimney piece coming apart? The piece where they are press fitted together. My wife dropped her mod one time and it came apart. Ever since then, it'll come apart easily which is annoying when it's a full tank. What have you guys done to fix it?

Thanks!
It hasn't happened to me, but there's been some mention of it. So far, all that's been done is to tap them back together. If this isn't working for you, they could be spot welded, or even epoxied together.
 

badonkadonk

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Feb 2, 2015
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It hasn't happened to me, but there's been some mention of it. So far, all that's been done is to tap them back together. If this isn't working for you, they could be spot welded, or even epoxied together.

Yea I've been pushing them back together but it comes apart easily now. I was thinking of gluing them together but wasn't sure how safe that was.
 
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suprtrkr

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Yea I've been pushing them back together but it comes apart easily now. I was thinking of gluing them together but wasn't sure how safe that was.
If you don't know somebody with a Tig welder-- a single spot weld would do, but 2 would be better-- then I think I would use an epoxy formulated to adhere to metals; and if possible for food-grade contact. Many tanks are epoxied together anyway, particularly those where glass parts are joined to metal ones. Slow dry is preferable to high speed for bond strength. Rough the surfaces to be joined with a bit of sandpaper. Mix the epoxy according to the directions. Spread it on both surfaces and put the parts together. Clean the excess glue immediately using Acetone or rubbing alcohol. Clamping the parts together will be helpful, of this is possible. A small C-clamp or bar clamp, or a large Vice Grips would work, and you don't need a lot of pressure. Failing that, set the barrel base down and lean a heavy book on top of the chimney. Let it cure for twice the recommended time, then wash it carefully before use. Judicious use of a hair dryer to gently heat the parts once an hour or so will be helpful in speeding cure time and making sure the cure is complete; all chemical reactions vary directly with temperature. Don't get it hot, just warm. If you have a metal clamp, the whole assembly can be placed in a warm oven. Hotter than skin temp, not so hot touching the rack burns you. You may want to run the clamp down and then re-clean any excess glue that may have gotten squeezed out before re-clamping. Let us know how it works.
 

suprtrkr

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I told you guys my Vortex has been begging me for a quad stainless build. Here she is, coiled 4 x 28ga SS316 slick wire, 7/6 wrap, 3.5ID, totaling .256Ω:
20160118_171940[1].jpg
 

suprtrkr

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Ok, you guys got me worried about The Great Battery Shortage. So I ordered 6 more LG HG2s. And a new RX to go with them. Oh, and some battery boxes to keep them in. Those dam RXs are selling so fast, LG can't keep up...
 
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