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DavidAmonettNashville

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I've found with my VV3, MVP1 and SVD the change from yellow light to shut down is pretty quick, as happened to you on your MVP3. Maybe just the way innokin has set the monitor?

Battery Level Indicator: (from innokins website)

The iTaste MVP3.0 e cgiarette battery has a tri-color LED on the top.

Green = Almost fully Charged. When the iTaste MVP3.0 is fully recharged the top LED light will power off.

Yellow = Half Power.

Red = Low Power. Charge the MVP3.0.
 

Nailz

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    Battery Level Indicator: (from innokins website)

    The iTaste MVP3.0 e cgiarette battery has a tri-color LED on the top.

    Green = Almost fully Charged. When the iTaste MVP3.0 is fully recharged the top LED light will power off.

    Yellow = Half Power.

    Red = Low Power. Charge the MVP3.0.

    Might say that, but going by previous products from innokin, it is normal not to have much time once it hits yellow before it goes to red.

    Said only got 4 odd hours before it went to yellow, so I would hope it wasn't fully charged to start with.
     

    DavidOck

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    The manuals for the others say that as well, but who knows, yellow could be 3.4 volts and red trips at 3.3. Just relating how my Innokin products work. Since they all do it, even the SVD no matter the battery capacity I use, I'm guessing their base algorithm to determine "power level" may just be mis-tuned. (Many other Innokin users have reported a similar quick change.)

    I just have enough devices in rotation that I just recharge after some number of mls have been vaped, and rarely hit low batt on anything. (Number of mls will vary wildly depending on vaping style.)
     

    peraspera

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    Battery Level Indicator: (from innokins website)

    The iTaste MVP3.0 e cgiarette battery has a tri-color LED on the top.

    Green = Almost fully Charged. When the iTaste MVP3.0 is fully recharged the top LED light will power off.

    Yellow = Half Power.

    Red = Low Power. Charge the MVP3.0.

    Wonder if that might be a representation of voltage remaining rather than time? Most removable battery charts I see for vaping show that they hold a mid-level charge for quite awhile then fall off a cliff. Maybe the built-in ones fall off even faster?
     

    shreduhsoreus

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    My MVP 20W seemed to have more time on yellow in comparison to green than the first charge of my MVP 3 did. It was pretty close to being fully charged, full bars. Over 4 hours doesn't seem like much considering that it's a 3800mAh battery but when I say I was chain vaping for 4 hours, I mean chain vaping. I went through over 3 tanks on my Subtank Mini lol. Most of it was above 20W anyway so I'm not too surprised how short the time between full and half was, I'm just a little concerned about how short the time between "half" and dead was.
     

    JimmyDB

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    On a regular battery at 4.2 volts, half way is 2.1 but vape devices usually cut off at around 3.2-3.6 so I always wonder what these displays are really telling me.

    Most Li+ batteries are considered dead at 2.5V, but due to regulation circuits... most regulated devices will only go down to 3.2ish as you said... even though the battery mAh as advertised may have been determined with 2.5V as the cutoff.
     

    ian91

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    Do any of you use an Orchid? I bought a V4 to try since it seems to be so closely linked to the Kayfuns that I love. I finally tried it yesterday. Build a dual coil to 1.2ohm. It generates a lot of vape but it is like sucking air. The airflow is way too airy for me. I always looked for a draw similar to a smoke and that is what I get from the Kayfun. Always remove the airflow screws to maximize airflow and prefer the dual air hole models. Thought that since I did that, the Orchid would not be too bad but no way could I use this. Another one in the parts bucket!!
     

    pufZeppelin

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    Do any of you use an Orchid? I bought a V4 to try since it seems to be so closely linked to the Kayfuns that I love. I finally tried it yesterday. Build a dual coil to 1.2ohm. It generates a lot of vape but it is like sucking air.

    The airflow is way too airy for me. I always looked for a draw similar to a smoke and that is what I get from the Kayfun.

    Always remove the airflow screws to maximize airflow and prefer the dual air hole models.

    Thought that since I did that, the Orchid would not be too bad but no way could I use this. Another one in the parts bucket!!

    so reading what you wrote (must be typo)

    you DID put screws BACK IN ? and it is STILL to much air draw ?

    even tightening them to almost closed positions

    :confused:
     

    pufZeppelin

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    Do any of you use an Orchid ? I bought a V4 to try

    since it seems to be so closely linked to the Kayfuns that I love. I finally tried it yesterday. Build a dual coil to 1.2ohm. It generates a lot of vape but it is like sucking air. The airflow is way too airy for me. I always looked for a draw similar to a smoke and that is what I get from the Kayfun. Always remove the airflow screws to maximize airflow and prefer the dual air hole models.
    Thought that since I did that, the Orchid would not be too bad but no way could I use this. Another one in the parts bucket!!

    I meant that I take the screws out of all the kayfuns. There are no air adjustments on the Origin.

    Ooooooooooooooo OK

    I got confused, thought we were talking about an Orchid

    :blink:
     

    bobwho77

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    I really like this Mechanical mod called the Gizmo...I haven't heard one bad review and it looks great with a 22mm or 23mm topper. Check it out real quick.- Dave


    Beautiful device, but what else would you expect from the people who brought us the Jaguar? I'm kind of spoiled by the regulated electronics though.
    Gives me some ideas... Maybe stretched, for an 18650... DNA 40-50W board... If I can get it right, would anybody buy one???
     

    Eric Auer

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    Beautiful device, but what else would you expect from the people who brought us the Jaguar? I'm kind of spoiled by the regulated electronics though.
    Gives me some ideas... Maybe stretched, for an 18650... DNA 40-50W board... If I can get it right, would anybody buy one???

    Sure.

    If the price is right :)

    Eric
     

    shreduhsoreus

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    Just hit yellow, about 24 hours later. Now to see how long until it dies.

    3 hours later it's now red. Checked voltage when I noticed it and it was at 3.61, but it's dropping much more rapidly. Turned yellow at 3.75.

    10-15 minutes later it's reading 3.50 and I'm only vaping at 11W on a .7 ohm build(~2.6V). Dropping rapidly, 3.47 a minute later...

    Should I RMA this thing or does this sound normal?

    Edit: and within 10 minutes of me posting this it died lol.

    If it's normal for a device to die so quickly after it hits "half" power then I'll just have to make note that yellow means I need to be near a charger within a few hours, I just don't want to keep a faulty device if there's something wrong and I can have it replaced. My other MVP seemed to last longer on half charge, which is why I'm concerned.
     
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    Eric Auer

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    3 hours later it's now red. Checked voltage when I noticed it and it was at 3.61, but it's dropping much more rapidly. Turned yellow at 3.75.

    10-15 minutes later it's reading 3.50 and I'm only vaping at 11W on a .7 ohm build(~2.6V). Dropping rapidly, 3.47 a minute later...

    Should I RMA this thing or does this sound normal?

    Edit: and within 10 minutes of me posting this it died lol.

    If it's normal for a device to die so quickly after it hits "half" power then I'll just have to make note that yellow means I need to be near a charger within a few hours, I just don't want to keep a faulty device if there's something wrong and I can have it replaced. My other MVP seemed to last longer on half charge, which is why I'm concerned.

    My MVP20W acts the same way.

    But...

    I get 2-3 days in the green depending on how hot I run it.

    I hardly ever go above 8W tho.

    Eric
     
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