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Got a u-can Friday, was all ready to Frankenstein it and, well I made the mistake of trying it out (for what it was intended for) and I REALLY like it.
Sooooo, I ordered another one to mod. LOL!
Sooooo, I ordered another one to mod. LOL!
I was just wondering if that was going to happen to anyone! Just got mine, haven't opened it. I want to finish my 2nd Micro-Gen before starting this project.
I actually ordered 2 more.
One will be like this hybrid, the other I want to add a 510 connection.
One will be like this hybrid, the other I want to add a 510 connection.
Has anyone successfully modded one yet? Still holding off until I can get a clearer description of what to do. Haven't really modded anything before, so I'm really trying not to create something that'll blow up in my hands.
Mine is still floating somewhere in the vast abyss... Better known as the USPS.
I've got two coming and two designs in mind. Just need to get them in my hands...
I'll try to take some "as I go" shots.
I've got two coming and two designs in mind. Just need to get them in my hands...
I'll try to take some "as I go" shots.
Here are some pics
Here are the posts
At the moment I'm using some heat shrink to isolate, but I'm worried that this wont stop the liquid from coming in contact with the battery.
It might not leak, but I would rather know for sure before I take her out
Thanks
L
Here are the posts
At the moment I'm using some heat shrink to isolate, but I'm worried that this wont stop the liquid from coming in contact with the battery.
It might not leak, but I would rather know for sure before I take her out
Thanks
L
I was thinking something like this would work when I get mine in. Not completely sure though.
Metric Flexible Nylon Pneumatic Air Line Tubing Compressed Airline Pipe Tube UK | eBay
4mm in diameter outside and 2.5mm inside is the smallest tubing. It's a lot for cutting one little piece off though. >_>;;
Metric Flexible Nylon Pneumatic Air Line Tubing Compressed Airline Pipe Tube UK | eBay
4mm in diameter outside and 2.5mm inside is the smallest tubing. It's a lot for cutting one little piece off though. >_>;;
No idea what the red insulator is or where it came from...
I was planning on simply filling the top with JB-Weld. Once it's fully cured it can be drilled and tapped for the screws you're using.
I was planning on simply filling the top with JB-Weld. Once it's fully cured it can be drilled and tapped for the screws you're using.
That's an interesting option...thanks for sharing...sure beats my trying to waterproof the entire top cap
L
I haven't started on mine yet. (Had some very pleasant distractions). Today, at the Hardware store, though, I got some 4-40 brass pan-head screws. This, because I replaced stems on AGA-Ts and I know that 4-40 and M3 machine screws work nicely with the standard insulators found on AGA stems, and 510 connections. I also got matching nuts and these tiny little o-rings that fit the screw (o-ring ID) and have ~same footprint as the nuts.
Like I said, haven't started yet; but I'm picturing (from battery and working up) brass pan-head filed flat, standard atty (AGA) insulator, the "deck", black o-ring (seated around&on insulator's top), 1 nut to cinch, and 2nd nut to catch wire. (I'll probably grind down the nut shoulders to minimize their footprint). Neg screw similar; but no AGA insulator (maybe yes o-ring) and nuts with pan-head filed extra shallow.
edit: if I need more OD on pos. post insulator, I'll probably find something in my junk box to act as a washer btwn AGA insulator and deck
Like I said, haven't started yet; but I'm picturing (from battery and working up) brass pan-head filed flat, standard atty (AGA) insulator, the "deck", black o-ring (seated around&on insulator's top), 1 nut to cinch, and 2nd nut to catch wire. (I'll probably grind down the nut shoulders to minimize their footprint). Neg screw similar; but no AGA insulator (maybe yes o-ring) and nuts with pan-head filed extra shallow.
edit: if I need more OD on pos. post insulator, I'll probably find something in my junk box to act as a washer btwn AGA insulator and deck
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Oh, hey, started looking at disassembly of u-can. Always afraid I'll break something. If anyone has pointers or can share what they did . . . .. (specifically, key-ring loop at top).
I'm assuming the filler tip needs drilling out. I see the screw on the bottom. So that should all be pretty straight forward. Imagine I can drill out the top thing too; but knocking it out would be easier.
I'm assuming the filler tip needs drilling out. I see the screw on the bottom. So that should all be pretty straight forward. Imagine I can drill out the top thing too; but knocking it out would be easier.
Hammer love tap to the key ring thing and it came right off...there is no screw under that plastic thing you see. Just sit it down on desk, as if it was screwed onto the body and hit the "nail on the head" and it come out.
I drilled through the dripping stem and it can out very easy.
Where/how to drill the negative hole. Be careful because you might end up doing what I did which was end up with a slanted screw (think tower of Pisa) and then not be able to screw top on...but if you go too close, then the plus and minus connection will touch...I also machined all the screws and nuts to have more room...the smallest screws and nuts I could find locally are 3m and they work, but I would rather have 2m or 2.5m.
Hope this helps
I drilled through the dripping stem and it can out very easy.
Where/how to drill the negative hole. Be careful because you might end up doing what I did which was end up with a slanted screw (think tower of Pisa) and then not be able to screw top on...but if you go too close, then the plus and minus connection will touch...I also machined all the screws and nuts to have more room...the smallest screws and nuts I could find locally are 3m and they work, but I would rather have 2m or 2.5m.
Hope this helps
I also haven't dismantled my Ucan... How do you remove the base in the bottom where the button is located?
For that you just unscrew the screw on the bottom of the button...that was the easiest part actually. I didn't have the right size bit, so all I did was spin the button itself and that did the trick
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