IPV D2 announced.

[eddiea]

I don't think it's the extra mass of the posts, coils I build ohm out the same on the Velocity as they do on my other atomizers, give or take a few hundredths. So the coils ARE getting the same amount of power.

It's the large chamber (much more air inside acting as an initial coolant, combined with much more metal mass surrounding the air acting as a constant heat sink), and high, DIRECT airflow that make it want more power than a tiny chamber, indirect airflow Subtank RBA.

On the whole, with the same build it uses about the same amount of power as any other dual coil rda I own. And all my RDAs take more power than any of my RBAs or RTAs.

It's not inefficiency, it's physics.

Makes sense. In turn, that logic would suggest the Velocity-style base on the Cthulu V2 should require less joules and lower temperature (than the Velocity RDA using "identical" builds) due to it having a smaller base and a much smaller chamber - although it seems it will offer massive airflow.

 

[Croak]

You looked at the Steamcrave Aromamizer V2, with the optional Velocity-style deck? Don't like the rubber airflow control ring, but I do like the direct airflow to the coils, RDA style, combined with the Velocity deck option.

Aromamizer OCC Tank 6ml,AROMAMIZER TANK,,steamcrave

 

[eddiea]

You looked at the Steamcrave Aromamizer V2, with the optional Velocity-style deck? Don't like the rubber airflow control ring, but I do like the direct airflow to the coils, RDA style, combined with the Velocity deck option.

Aromamizer OCC Tank 6ml,AROMAMIZER TANK,,steamcrave

Interesting features indeed, and I do like the new Velocity-style deck option. Yes they could've (should've) implemented the airflow control differently.

RDA-style airflow and Velocity-style decks are the latest innovations, and manufacturers have been taking notes. Youde's soon-to-be-released Bellus RTA has RDA-style airflow, and it seems it will be offered at a very affordable price...it's sort of like a Goliath V2 with RDA-style airflow.
http://www.yourcig.com/product/bellus-rta.html

ECF thread: New Youde RTA the Bellus | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Croak]

It's on my list. Plus the Bellus has a one-piece base (unlike the Goliath V2's screw-in clearo-style bases) which should lend itself to better conductivity/lower static resistance.

 

[Scotticus93]

Has anyone tried STM nickel coils on the d2. Thinking about buying some.
But they aren't cheap.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Has anyone tried STM nickel coils on the d2. Thinking about buying some.
But they aren't cheap.

They arent cheap and they arent that great to be honest!I had a pack of them and got 2, may be 3 to work. The problem is the long legs on the horizontal coil. The AF and JF are also limited. I am waiting for the vertical Ni coils but they havent appeared yet. The Atalantis vertical Ni coils are brilliant! I just use the RBA deck on the STM.

 

[ahmadmfz]

Just learn how to build a coil; much cheaper than buying coil heads. After some practice you can get it done under 2mins.

I use a 10 wrap single contact titanium coil on my Goblin mini. Fantastic flavor, vapor and batt life. Keep it simple

 

[Kemosabe]

Just learn how to build a coil; much cheaper than buying coil heads. After some practice you can get it done under 2mins.

I use a 10 wrap single contact titanium coil on my Goblin mini. Fantastic flavor, vapor and batt life. Keep it simple

whats a single contact coil?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

whats a single contact coil?

single as opposed to dual coil. Contact as in touching wraps (like a standard microcoil you might build with kanthal). instead of spaced wraps. Spaced coils are less popular with kanthal but became de rigeur with the advent of Ni200 for TP vaping since touching Ni coils are a little...unreliable. With Ti, you can, in theory do touching and spaced as it has an insulating oxide layer on the surface (the oxide is why you dry burn or torch kanthal). Ni200 has no such layer (at least not one you want to vape on). Ti has several oxidation states (its a transition metal like Fe, Ni, Co etc etc)). TiO and Ti2O3 form two tightly bound layers on the surface. Overheating in air generates TiO2 which can flake off and can be toxic so any dry heating needs to be done very carefully!

Probably more info than you need but there it is!

 

[Scotticus93]

They arent cheap and they arent that great to be honest!I had a pack of them and got 2, may be 3 to work. The problem is the long legs on the horizontal coil. The AF and JF are also limited. I am waiting for the vertical Ni coils but they havent appeared yet. The Atalantis vertical Ni coils are brilliant! I just use the RBA deck on the STM.

Do you build the nickel on the rba deck vertical? I tried to do that but couldn't get the wicking right. So now I'm thinking about trying horizontal. What gauge and id are you using?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Do you build the nickel on the rba deck vertical? I tried to do that but couldn't get the wicking right. So now I'm thinking about trying horizontal. What gauge and id are you using?

Horizontal and I dont use Ni any more. PITA! Ti all the way. Currently using 4 wraps (I think) of twisted 30g Ti grade 1 in the v2 RBA deck (although it works great in the v1 also. Fantastic vape!
I tried to rebuild the premades but ended up with the worst dry hit ever and a lungful of burnt insulator. Never again...

 

[Scotticus93]

Horizontal and I dont use Ni any more. PITA! Ti all the way. Currently using 4 wraps (I think) of twisted 30g Ti grade 1 in the v2 RBA deck (although it works great in the v1 also. Fantastic vape!
I tried to rebuild the premades but ended up with the worst dry hit ever and a lungful of burnt insulator. Never again...

I still need to buy ti. Tho I sorts plan on getting Nichrome next I think. Why is nickel hard to work with? And how are the new vertical occ .5 coils? I'm just feeling lazy and might go down to the local vape shop to get some. I have also never gotten as good of a vape out of the rba as the occ and I have a v2 now.

 

[Kemosabe]

single as opposed to dual coil. Contact as in touching wraps (like a standard microcoil you might build with kanthal). instead of spaced wraps. Spaced coils are less popular with kanthal but became de rigeur with the advent of Ni200 for TP vaping since touching Ni coils are a little...unreliable. With Ti, you can, in theory do touching and spaced as it has an insulating oxide layer on the surface (the oxide is why you dry burn or torch kanthal). Ni200 has no such layer (at least not one you want to vape on). Ti has several oxidation states (its a transition metal like Fe, Ni, Co etc etc)). TiO and Ti2O3 form two tightly bound layers on the surface. Overheating in air generates TiO2 which can flake off and can be toxic so any dry heating needs to be done very carefully!

Probably more info than you need but there it is!

oh. i gotcha. i read that as single-contact coil as opposed to single contact-coil. i thought you were leaving the neg lead unattached or something like that that ive never heard of.

i appreciate the extra info about TC coils. been vaping for 4 years but im a TC noob. i think i will eventually get into TC and the info helps. im glad i didnt just dive right into TC without researching the coil properties more. the more i learn, the less i want to get into TC lol. seems like a whole host of new toxins i need to learn how to avoid.

 

[taylord22]

Hey guys, just picked up my IPV D2 yesterday and I'm experiencing some problems. Just wanted to see if anyone else has had any experience with these issues, specifically with a Smok TCT on top

First thing I did was throw my Smok TCT on it. Set resistance. Put the Joules and temp low, just to acclimate everything. Vaped that for awhile (extremely light and whispy), then let the coil cool and reset resistance. Came out to .18. Perfect.

I put the Joules at 40 and the temp at 350....a half second of a real hit, followed by an extremely whispy vape. We're talking less than a clearo from 4 years ago.

Put my Joules to 30, crank them temp to 400...same thing

Put Joules to 40, temp at 450...finally, a mediocre vape. But, actually visible clouds.

Put Joules to 40, temp at 440...immediately reverted back to the whispy vape.

I put my lemo 2 on with a .09 build...same thing

Put my TCT on my IPV4...rocking and rolling at 45J and 350 degrees. Same with my Sig 150

Power mode works flawlessly, but TC just doesn't seem 'right'. And one thing I've noticed: I know this reads active resistance, but if I lock in my coil at .19, as soon as i hit it, it only displays ".39". I never see it display anything below that until I reset my resistance (but that just jumps back to ".39" as soon as I hit it)

 

[BigEgo]

Hey guys, just picked up my IPV D2 yesterday and I'm experiencing some problems. Just wanted to see if anyone else has had any experience with these issues, specifically with a Smok TCT on top

First thing I did was throw my Smok TCT on it. Set resistance. Put the Joules and temp low, just to acclimate everything. Vaped that for awhile (extremely light and whispy), then let the coil cool and reset resistance. Came out to .18. Perfect.

Are those nickel coils? If so, be sure the temp setting is set to nickel. If using Ti coils, be sure it's set to Ti mode.

I put the Joules at 40 and the temp at 350....a half second of a real hit, followed by an extremely whispy vape. We're talking less than a clearo from 4 years ago.

Put my Joules to 30, crank them temp to 400...same thing

Put Joules to 40, temp at 450...finally, a mediocre vape. But, actually visible clouds.

I need to be around 450 to get a decent vape as well.

Put my TCT on my IPV4...rocking and rolling at 45J and 350 degrees. Same with my Sig 150

I doubt 350 is accurate. It would be impossible to get much vapor (especially with a high VG juice) at 350°F. I doubt you would see much vapor until 400°F.

I know this reads active resistance, but if I lock in my coil at .19, as soon as i hit it, it only displays ".39". I never see it display anything below that until I reset my resistance (but that just jumps back to ".39" as soon as I hit it)

Yeah, if you want to see your locked resistance, you have to lock it again. It's one of the cons of this device, imo.

 

[taylord22]

@BigEgo That makes me feel a bit better. I just wasn't sure if there was reason to return it. I did have it set to the NI setting, so I should be good there. Regarding the resistance, I'm having a hard time understanding the reasoning for it displaying the (seemingly random) resistance of .39 at all-times (that is, if I adjust the Joules, that's the resistance that it shows me, despite being lockedat around .19).

 

[BigEgo]

@BigEgo That makes me feel a bit better. I just wasn't sure if there was reason to return it. I did have it set to the NI setting, so I should be good there. Regarding the resistance, I'm having a hard time understanding the reasoning for it displaying the (seemingly random) resistance of .39 at all-times (that is, if I adjust the Joules, that's the resistance that it shows me, despite being lockedat around .19).

The resistance it shows is the highest resistance the coil hit when you last fired it. Nickel wire changes resistance when heated (this is how the temperature is calculated).

 

[TheotherSteveS]

@BigEgo That makes me feel a bit better. I just wasn't sure if there was reason to return it. I did have it set to the NI setting, so I should be good there. Regarding the resistance, I'm having a hard time understanding the reasoning for it displaying the (seemingly random) resistance of .39 at all-times (that is, if I adjust the Joules, that's the resistance that it shows me, despite being lockedat around .19).

just do a quick but solid press of fire to see locked resistance. It threw me for a while and is a totally stupid 'feature' in my opinion..

 

[BigEgo]

just do a quick but solid press of fire to see locked resistance. It threw me for a while and is a totally stupid 'feature' in my opinion..

I kind of like the real-time resistance reading because it allows me to calculate if the temperature is correct (or if the mod is using the right TCR). I do wish, however, that there was a way to check the locked resistance without having to manipulate the fire button.

 

[Croak]

I kind of like the real-time resistance reading because it allows me to calculate if the temperature is correct (or if the mod is using the right TCR). I do wish, however, that there was a way to check the locked resistance without having to manipulate the fire button.

Same here, though showing the locked resistance full time and just doing another math function and modifying the temp number to be active instead would have avoided a lot of confusion for folks.