IPV4 preorder

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HDMontana

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Anyone find that TP is the coldest vape ever? The ipv4 is great, but the overall technology is kinda weird to me. Are the days of warm vapes over in the TP world? I like my 0.3/24g type of heat. I think my VTR + AeroTank produce more heat at 2.2 ohm/11 watts than the ipv4 at 50 (max) joules at 450 degrees lol. :(
I've only been using TP a few weeks. What I have found is that if you tighten up the air flow, the vape will get hotter. At one point, with air flow restricted, I was starting to get a really hot drip tip. I opened up the air flow for good lung hits and the vape cooled way down.

HD
 
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foliagegreen

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Petabread, i thought the same thing on my first Ni build, what i have discovered is that i like a higher resistance between .23 to .28 with T.C.(more surface area), now i'm getting what i want....i also switched over to TI but that's another story in another thread.
and it's the same on all three of my T.C. devices (all clns).

i don't really wanna get off topic, but do you think Ti is superior to ni200? i kinda wanna try it.
 
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Petabread

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Petabread, i thought the same thing on my first Ni build, what i have discovered is that i like a higher resistance between .23 to .28 with T.C.(more surface area), now i'm getting what i want....i also switched over to TI but that's another story in another thread.
and it's the same on all three of my T.C. devices (all clns).

Really? That's interesting. I wish I could try a higher resistance right now. But I'm using a goliath RTA atm, and with 30g/15 wrap duals at .10, I cant imagine getting anything longer in there. So frigging cramped in there as it is lol.
 

TheBloke

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Question about batteries: I've heard multiple times that one needs to dedicate sets of batteries for a given mod. Various people have said to label (with felt tip pen or whatever) your batteries for a designated mod, and never ever use them between mods.

So my question is - why? Right now for example I have 2 x Samsung 25R sitting in my charger, fully charged. They've been used for a couple of weeks in my Waidea VaporFlask clone. What would be the problem with me now using that pair in the IPV4?

I can understand that individual batteries shouldn't be moved about, because you don't want to have a situation where you have one battery with a different charge level to the other. But if I marry them in sets of two, and always use a given set as a pair, does it matter if that pair is sometimes in my parallel-battery Waidea VF and sometimes in my series-battery IPV4?

In either case I'm always going to use them from fully charged to completely empty, then put them, as a pair, on my charger until they're fully charged.

TLDR: Can I label my batteries "Pair 1", "Pair 2", "Pair 3" and use any given pair in any dual-battery mod, or must I label them "VF Pair 1", "VF Pair 2", "IPV4 Pair 1", etc? And if so, why?
 

wooglins

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Question about batteries: I've heard multiple times that one needs to dedicate sets of batteries for a given mod. Various people have said to label (with felt tip pen or whatever) your batteries for a designated mod, and never ever use them between mods.

So my question is - why? Right now for example I have 2 x Samsung 25R sitting in my charger, fully charged. They've been used for a couple of weeks in my Waidea VaporFlask clone. What would be the problem with me now using that pair in the IPV4?

I can understand that individual batteries shouldn't be moved about, because you don't want to have a situation where you have one battery with a different charge level to the other. But if I marry them in sets of two, and always use a given set as a pair, does it matter if that pair is sometimes in my parallel-battery Waidea VF and sometimes in my series-battery IPV4?

In either case I'm always going to use them from fully charged to completely empty, then put them, as a pair, on my charger until they're fully charged.

TLDR: Can I label my batteries "Pair 1", "Pair 2", "Pair 3" and use any given pair in any dual-battery mod, or must I label them "VF Pair 1", "VF Pair 2", "IPV4 Pair 1", etc? And if so, why?

I have been using batteries of similar chemistry in the RC hobby for years and I have never heard anyone even slightly recommend using the same batteries for one particular model. I think the difference is in the RC hobby we almost always use an external charger.

The short answer is use whatever batteries if they are of proper capacity and are charged with a quality charger.
 
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TheBloke

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Thanks! Yeah, the more I think of it, the more I am sure it must just be overly-cautious advice meant to ensure that people aren't taking one battery out of mod 1 and one out of mod 2 to put into mod 3, and so potentially using two batteries with dramatically different charge levels. That will definitely cause damage or danger, I understand.

But yeah, it seems to me that as long as the batteries are paired together such that they're always of the same charge level, it can't make the slightest difference whether they're swapped between mods (as a pair) or not.
 

ThunderDan

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Its probably mostly paranoia, and people wanting to stress battery safety.

I think they recommend you marry the batteries in a pair when they are new to use in dual battery box mods to keep the internal resistance similar throughout the lifespan of the battery. A lot of people also rotate the batteries each charge cycle too, say you have two batteries A1, and A2, they will put them in A1, A2 one time, A2, A1 the next time, etc.

I don't think anybody is recommending this married pair of batteries can only be used on this one mod, per say, I dunno maybe they are. I've been using my married 25Rs that I previously used in parallel in my diy DNA40, and using them in my Waidea VF, and have no problem doing that (functionally and paranoia wise). I have 2 pairs of 25Rs married for my sigelei 150W (series), and I fully intend on using them once my IPV4 arrives (if it ever arrives). I do keep the married pairs separate for parallel or series use, but that is probably just my paranoia, I definitely don't limit them to just one mod.
 
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TheBloke

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Its probably mostly paranoia, and people wanting to stress battery safety.

I think they recommend you marry the batteries in a pair when they are new to use in dual battery box mods to keep the internal resistance similar throughout the lifespan of the battery. A lot of people also rotate the batteries each charge cycle too, say you have two batteries A1, and A2, they will put them in A1, A2 one time, A2, A1 the next time, etc.

I don't think anybody is recommending this married pair of batteries can only be used on this one mod, per say, I dunno maybe they are. I've been using my married 25Rs that I previously used in parallel in my diy DNA40, and using them in my Waidea VF, and have no problem doing that (functionally and paranoia wise). I have 2 pairs of 25Rs married for my sigelei 150W (series), and I fully intend on using them once my IPV4 arrives (if it ever arrives). I do keep the married pairs separate for parallel or series use, but that is probably just my paranoia, I definitely don't limit them to just one mod.

OK thanks!

At least two YT reviewers I've watched have said to marry batteries to mods, pbusardo being the most notable of them (in his review of the genuine VF 2.0, as I recall.)

That's a good thought regarding rotation. I have consistently noticed in my VF that when I take them off to charge when the mod is saying Weak Battery, one battery always shows as 0.1v higher than the other on the charger. I haven't yet tested to see if that's always the same battery, or always a battery in the same tube, or what. Next time I put a set in I'll label the batteries to differentiate them, then make a note of which went in which tube, and then rotate the next time.

I ordered four new Samsung 25Rs along with my IPV4 so I'll have 8 total now between two dual battery mods. So I'll have no shortage and I could easily dedicate two sets to one and two to the other, at least for now until I get my third 18650 mod! It'll just make it easier if I can treat them as 4 pairs for use in any mod, rather than 2 pairs per mod.
 

TheBloke

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It makes a difference to marry series batteries, not so much with parallel.

Do you mean marry them in pairs, or marry a pair to a specific mod? If the latter, will that cause any issues if I have a pair that's sometimes used in series in the IPV4 and sometimes in parallel in the VF?
 

TheotherSteveS

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Do you mean marry them in pairs, or marry a pair to a specific mod? If the latter, will that cause any issues if I have a pair that's sometimes used in series in the IPV4 and sometimes in parallel in the VF?

If the VF is draining them equally I suspect its fine but expect to be corrected soon lol!!
 

TheBloke

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If the VF is draining them equally I suspect its fine but expect to be corrected soon lol!!

It drains them very close to equal - I put them in at fully charged 4.2v, and when I take them out they're always at 3.2 and 3.3, or 3.3 and 3.4v. Always a 0.1 difference, regardless of the set of batteries used (one set is 2x Samsung 25R, the other is 2x AW 2200mah.) Next time I replace them I'm planning to label them and note which tube is used for which battery, so I can tell in future if the higher charged battery is always a particular tube.

I did wonder if maybe the chip/screen only pulls from one battery, where the main firing uses both, which could explain one battery always being lower. But then I thought I read someone say that the two batteries are first wired together, then in to the board, making them a single unit as far as the board is concerned, and maybe that's a requirement of parallel wiring?

Anyway I'll be rotating them in future to ensure that extra 0.1 is always from alternate batteries.

I'm hoping that I can use the same sets between the VF and the IPV4, and that Croak meant it was important for series to have batteries in pairs, not that those pairs should be married to a specific mod. That would seem to make sense given what wooglins and Dad said. But I have no idea what goes on internally so maybe there's some difference in series wiring that changes the internal characteristics or something. There's nearly always some complication :)
 

MikeB2Shady

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According to myvaportstore today, there is not going to be a sliver/gray cover color option. Only the black cover for now. So anyone who pre-ordered the gray cover (myself included), send an email to them if you want to get back in line for the black as stock arrives.

Did MVS say they were shipping today by any chance?
 
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