Is it just the battery?

[highping]

I’ve been vaping for about a month and have purchased and used several stock models (901, 4081, 401, 510) and have settled on the 510. Now I’m looking to upgrade my vaping life via mods. Battery mods in particular (I’ve tried all the cart mods, but haven’t really settled on one yet).
Anyway, I have looked at several different models of “commercial” battery mods like the Silver Bullet, the Chuck, GG, SD, etc. and have read/watched many different reviews. Most of the reviewers say that they are getting enormous throat hits and massive clouds of vapor from their devices and have had to cut the nic levels to cope. All this sounds great to me, but also raises a couple questions in my mind.
I hope it’s not a stupid question but… it’s really just the battery, right? I mean, all other things being equal (same atty, same juice, etc.), will I get the same hit from a Silver Bullet (using an 18650) or a Chuck (using an 18650) , or (hypothetically) a pair of wires running directly from the 18650 to my atty? I understand that there are cosmetic differences between all these options, but are there any real performance differences?

The other question that I have is this… If my freshly charged stock 510 batt is running 3.7V and the 18650 is running 3.7V, how is the beefy battery (in a Silver Bullet for example) giving a bigger hit. I understand why the voltage on the stock 510 batt is going to drop off much quicker, but before the drop off isn’t 3.7V going to produce the same hit regardless of the source?

Sorry this is such a long post, I’m just trying to get all the facts straight before I plunk down a 100 bucks on what’s basically a fancy battery holder and switch.

 

[Dave Rickey]

The answers get complicated, but the short form is that the ratio between battery size and current draw (known as C) can make a big difference in the ability for that cell to maintain voltage under load. Where a 18650 with a 2400+ mAh capacity is losing .05V under draw, a teeny little 510 battery could be losing .5V or more. The 18650 is operating at less than 1C (current drain is such it could run for more than an hour without draining completely), and the 510 is operating at 10C (only good for 6 minutes nominally, and more like 3 practically).

Some batteries, especially NiMH, NiCad, or Li-Poly, can be optimized for high-C applications, but Li-Ion doesn't like it in general. Operating at high C ratios not only means lower load voltage (cooler vapor) but will reduce the cycle life (how many times you can recharge the cell before it stops holding a charge). Under the best of circumstances, Li-Ion have hundreds of cycles in them, but high-C drain combined with routinely drawing them down to minimum voltage can reduce that to dozens. An 18650 you use to half capacity and charge every night could last for years, a stock 510 battery you drain to minimum every day might not last more than a few weeks.

In addition to that, some of those items have other features, like built-in chargers (so your USB passthrough is a USB cable), voltage regulation (so your vaping is consistent regardless of your battery state), safety cutoffs (time-based or safety switches so you can pocket them without worrying about burns) and so on. Most of them aren't that sophisticated right now, and are just a battery and a switch. Caveat Emptor.

--Dave

 

[SLDS181]

will I get the same hit from a Silver Bullet (using an 18650) or a Chuck (using an 18650) , or (hypothetically) a pair of wires running directly from the 18650 to my atty?

Technically.... yes, it would be the same. The atomizer and the battery are what gives you the big hit.

The differences are cosmetic, but also the mechanical aspect of the switch, build quality, solder/solderless, whatever. Its also largely personal preference in that arena.

The big differences are the type of battery used, and the voltage you're at (one 3.7v battery or two 3.0v batteries, or something with a regulator giving you 5v, whatever.)

 

[highping]

Thanks for the info Dave.
That definitely clears things up.

So, will the 18650 give me the same performance in any of the devices that use it... SB, Chuck, my own mod, etc. (assuming they are all just a battery holder and switch that is)?

 

[highping]

You're too quick SLDS. You answered my second post while I was typing it

Thanks

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

Meh, solder/solderless doesn't really matter if its constructed properly, switches matter to a point, but for the most part, the battery is the difference.

One thing you're missing tho highping, is that the larger batteries actually peak at 4.2v after a charge, and maintain that higher voltage for a much longer time. You'll notice a huge increase in throat hit and vapor going from 3.5 to 4.2v. If you are going to buy a mod, see what the warranty is on it, because you never know whats going to go wrong. Parts fail prematurely, regardless of who put them together - make sure you're covered.

 

[Robert]

right 4.2 volts like nerf said- I think even a well charged 510 bat is 4.0 for a short time.

6 volts is good- strong hit

Now what Shreck made ( and now me) a 5 and 6 volt PV using 2 buttons and an inline regulator- well there is nothing like it available..................................................or is there?

 

[breakfastchef]

The OP poses very good questions. When you vape your standard e-cig with a freshly charged 3.7 volt battery, the draws can be very good. As soon as the voltage of your typical screw-in battery begins to drop, the draw and vapor production drops considerably. Add a manual button to the mix, and you can produce some very good hits off most any atomizer. So to the first question, a long-lasting, high-current 3.7 volt battery source can prolong the great draws off your atomizer. That is one very good point for the commercially available battery packs.

A second consideration is the excellent vapor production and throat hit one can get from a high-voltage vaping device. I consider high voltage as any device that provides 5+ volts. This is the realm of an analog-like experience as far as an e-cig can provide. I could not vape any loinger at 3.7ish volts anymore after experiencing a 6v device.

5 & 6 volt vaping is not for everyone. That is a fact. Being true, there are many new, commercially available device capable of operating at different voltages. I chose to go with the Super-T. I use this device at 6v with the optional extension sleeve. It is the first device with battery compartment vent holes, locking button, and button with adjustable throw. All are first-to-market safety and convenience features. That said, if you were to choose a Prodigy, Silver Bullet, GLV or other similar modifed device, you would probably be thrilled.