Is Itaste MVP2.0 a good upgrade?

[DingerCPA]

Pop - it all depends on what you're looking for, IMO. I have 2 MVPs (and 2 VV3s and 2 Spinner 1300s, plus a Volcano Inferno set - 650/900mah) I am running rebuildables (kayfun clones of various types) on all of them, as well as simple EVOD tanks. I'm not a cloud chaser, but I like good flavor and decently thick vapor.

Love the MVPs for their battery longevity (but I virtually chain-vape, so I'm recharging them almost daily)

MVP can be used as pass-through (i.e. charge and vape simultaneously). I have a wall wart that came with my first VV3 kit as well as the wall wart from the Volcano set. I also charge via USB port on my computer.

 

[PoPoPoP]

Thanks guys! All of your comments are very encouraging.

Yes.

It comes with a charger, but not a mains adapter. I use a dedicated 500mAh (max) ecig mains adapter.
You could use a general mains usb, but for £4, why risk it.

A lady did burn down her house using an iPad mains adapter/charger recently.

That's a bit scary. The charger I mentioned in my first post is a Samsung 5 phone main charger (usb connection from phone to charger for wall outlet). Is that ok to use?

 

[BiLLi0]

Any charger works. The difference is the time it will take to get fully charged.

EDIT: I mean the power adapter.

 

[PoPoPoP]

This video is a single coil build in the original dual coil base. !!!! Aero Tank !!!! with 2.2 ohm micro coil build with cotton I usually "thin out the cotton" in the coil. Thicker cotton on both sides of the coil. I have not experienced any leaking in my original Aerotank.

I have not tried this with the "new" Kanger dual coils.

Thanks, but that Aerotank is for the regular version one, I think. Mine is the "mini" version and it's smaller

Thanks to you guys, I've just ordered the MVP2. Should be here next week... Can't wait!

 

[Susan~S]

Thanks, but that Aerotank is for the regular version one, I think. Mine is the "mini" version and it's smaller

Both the regular aerotank and the mini aerotank use the same Kanger coils.

 

[Whynot61]

I luv my MVP. I use a Protank 2 with the air flow adapter and a Protank 3 mini on it. Vapes real nice....

 

[BARFREFRE]

Seems like a great box mod for the price, good battery life, variable wattage mode so you can throw out the safe vaping chart. My roommate has one on the way. She ordered it from DFWvapors, they are selling four cool looking ones for girls (bejeweled skulls) for only $39.99, comes with an iclear 16.

 

[Limner]

I've been using the MVP since it came out last year, and it's been a solid joy. The form factor is comfortable for me, cranks to anything I've ever asked of it, and -- very important for me -- is *sturdy.
I live in a city, traveling by bus or foot to anyplace I go. The MVP admirably stands up to the rigors of being banged around inside a belt-holster on rush-hour busses or in my backpack filled with massive college textbooks. It still looks, and operates, like new. I swear by the things, and have no hesitancy at all recommending them to anyone. It's easily the best hardware purchase I've made since I started vaping.

 

[tchavei]

And oh, yes I plan to build coils in the future. I was told that Aerotank mini atty can be re-buildable only if I use an older version of kanger dual coils but I'm having a leakage issue with that.

"older" not "ancient" The older style is dual coil. The before that one where single coils and are not to be use with the new aerotank mini or protank 3 because they are shorter and will leak.

About rebuilding... you can use the "older" style (where the wicks are visible and use that big silicon groomet on top) or the new style (full metal jacket enclosure). If you use the new style, all you need is a silicon groomet from the "old" style head... then you can push the chimney out of the new one, remove the metal jacket and presto... you have a "old" style head that can easily be rebuilt.

Contrary to general consensus, my dual coil rebuilds come out much better than single coil rebuilds. I don't find them harder to do... it doesn't take more than 10 minutes to do one.

Best regards
Tony

 

[PoPoPoP]

Both the regular aerotank and the mini aerotank use the same Kanger coils.

oh, well. it's just that i'm having a leakage issue with these old kanger coils on my mini (e-liquid coming out of the mouthpiece / drip)

"older" not "ancient" The older style is dual coil. The before that one where single coils and are not to be use with the new aerotank mini or protank 3 because they are shorter and will leak.

About rebuilding... you can use the "older" style (where the wicks are visible and use that big silicon groomet on top) or the new style (full metal jacket enclosure). If you use the new style, all you need is a silicon groomet from the "old" style head... then you can push the chimney out of the new one, remove the metal jacket and presto... you have a "old" style head that can easily be rebuilt.

Contrary to general consensus, my dual coil rebuilds come out much better than single coil rebuilds. I don't find them harder to do... it doesn't take more than 10 minutes to do one.

Best regards
Tony

wow, that's interesting. but how do you remove the metal jacket? i'm trying to remove it but atm I couldn't.

another question. since the dual coils (what I have) are 1.5 oHm, what watts / voltage should I start at? I know the thing about "increase the watt / volt by 0.1 till it suits you" but I'm not sure what number to start at? 3.3V, I'm guessing ?

 

[WharfRat1976]

MVP2 works well as has been said. It will not fire .6 ohm builds if you plan to go that way with an rba or RDA or a dripper top. My only other gripe about it is after awhile the pin will start torecess so if you try diff toppers, they will not connect unless you can lower the center pin of the topper. My carto tanks barely make connection now. For 1.0-1.8 and higher coils the mvp works really well and much longer charge than any DNA 30 clone or other wise. Good luck.

 

[tchavei]

Hi

You can only remove the metal jacket after removing the chimney and with the new style you need to pull it strait off, no wiggling (or it will break off). If you plan to rebuild them, then there is another (more safe and easy) method to remove the chimney but you will destroy the old coils inside:

1. remove bottom insulator carefully
2. remove old coils from bottom with twizzers (or skip this step, doesn't matter actually )
3. put the atomizer head down on a vice so that it rests on the outer bottom collar (the chimney should remain free)
4. insert a 3-4mm screwdriver (whatever fits and is larger than the hole in the chimney) in the bottom of the atomizer (now faced up) and then hit it gently with your palm... the chimney will come out with a "pop"
5. use a pair of pliers and pull off the metal jacket (best way is to grab the metal jacket wall inside and outside where you can see the groove so you're only grabbing the metal jacket and not the atomizer's body)

After this you will have a normal "old style" dual coil assembly minus the top silicon groomet/cap... just use one from anoter head or order them separately

piece of cake

About the wattage... comes down to each one preference but I'm using 1.5Ohm at 10 watts with great success.

Regards
Tony

PS: Are you planning rebuilding them as single or dual coils?

 

[Cowbell]

Well I like mine, I've had it for a couple of months now I think. I use it a lot and I only have to charge the thing every couple of weeks, though I usually take a Vision Spinner on the road.

Short answer, no complaints, don't think you can go wrong with it.

 

[PoPoPoP]

Hi

You can only remove the metal jacket after removing the chimney and with the new style you need to pull it strait off, no wiggling (or it will break off). If you plan to rebuild them, then there is another (more safe and easy) method to remove the chimney but you will destroy the old coils inside:

1. remove bottom insulator carefully
2. remove old coils from bottom with twizzers (or skip this step, doesn't matter actually )
3. put the atomizer head down on a vice so that it rests on the outer bottom collar (the chimney should remain free)
4. insert a 3-4mm screwdriver (whatever fits and is larger than the hole in the chimney) in the bottom of the atomizer (now faced up) and then hit it gently with your palm... the chimney will come out with a "pop"
5. use a pair of pliers and pull off the metal jacket (best way is to grab the metal jacket wall inside and outside where you can see the groove so you're only grabbing the metal jacket and not the atomizer's body)

After this you will have a normal "old style" dual coil assembly minus the top silicon groomet/cap... just use one from anoter head or order them separately

piece of cake

About the wattage... comes down to each one preference but I'm using 1.5Ohm at 10 watts with great success.

Regards
Tony

PS: Are you planning rebuilding them as single or dual coils?

Thanks!! I'll try this out tomorrow. And since I've never built coils before, I think building a single coil would be the next step and see if I can succeed . But I gotta buy wires (idk what size, GA?) and cotton bags first

 

[tchavei]

Not fond of cotton myself (can't dry burn them and if you run out of juice you can burn them without knowing and then you need to replace them).

People have giving good reports with 28 and 29 gauge kanthal a1 for single coil rebuilds (around 6-7 turns should put you in the 1.5 Ohm range) however, buy some 32 gauge wire too because if you get frustrated or unhappy with the results, I can explain you how to make a real good dual coil and you will need 32 gauge to follow

About the wicking... once again, each one has its personal preference. I myself have ekowool in 1mm and 2mm and also silica wick in 3mm. If you want to make "that" dual coil at a later stage, get some 3mm silica wick while you are shopping, you will need it.

Regards
Tony

PS: not sure if you have VV or VW (or both?) but 10W on 1.5Ohm coil is the same as selecting 3.87V

 

[Susan~S]

oh, well. it's just that i'm having a leakage issue with these old kanger coils on my mini (e-liquid coming out of the mouthpiece / drip)

Your coils are flooding because your ego cannot vaporize the amount of eliquid you are drawing into the coils. There are things you can do to help eliminate this right now or you can just wait until you get an MVP and dial up your voltage/wattage to vaporize more eliquid faster.

 

[ToxicRVA]

MVP is a great upgrade, I started out with the evod (similar to evo) , and wanted something better too, did a bit of research and found the MVP.

I use a magma clone on mine and have almost stopped using tanks completely, building coils is easy enough and even though it seems to confuse some people that I'm using a dripper on an MVP, it works for me

I use the same wall charger and USB cable to charge my phone and mvp and most everything else without any issues, and as perviously stated, the mvp does come with it's own multi port USB cable for charging and to use to charge other devices.

 

[Lochte]

I bought an MVP a few weeks ago and it is dead already! I hope that was a fluke...got another and it is a strong provider, love it! Have been using it with a few different tanks....it seems to be a great battery unit. Hope this second one holds up.

 

[TealStreetHooligan]

I started out with a MVP. Used it for about 6 months till i discovered the REO forum and converted. Still have mine as a back up.

 

[LaserEyes]

As noted above, be sure to shop around. I just ordered one, and the prices vary severely. Just make sure it's a reputable shop (use the forum for seller reviews! It's so helpful!). There are some items that I like to buy at my local brick & mortar, but not this. Under $40 online vs $70 at the B&M made the decision very easy.