Is There An RTA That Doesn't Leak?

[Opinionated]

I've only recently begun building coils, and what everyone is telling you in this thread is correct..

I went into building thinking making the coil was going to be the hard part - boy was I ever wrong! It's wicking that's the most challenging.. but once you master how to wick whatever rta you have, then that rta won't leak, very very few will leak if/when you master how your particular rta needs to be wicked.

It generally takes me several tries so far - and some dedication deciding I won't let an rta get the best of me, to learn how to wick each rta I own, but that time, frustration, and wasted tanks of juice is usually worth it. Because once you have the wicking right, you have some awesome experiences with the various rta's on the market..

Don't let them win! Learn them, master them! Wicking is everything!

 

[DaveP]

No one mentioned o-rings. Along with insufficient wicking, vacuum leaks are one of the major causes of leaks. Let in air and juice escapes. Cover the air holes, pull a suction on the drip tip, and cover the drip tip with your tongue. Hold it for at least 5 seconds and release. If you don't feel the suction release you have an air leak and you'll never solve the juice leaking issues. Air is entering somewhere and you might as well replace all the o-rings at once if you have that problem.

Kayfun is an easy one to test. Some tanks with adjustable air flow are hard to seal up to test for leaks, especially those with bevel cuts in the adjustment ring. If that's the case with yours the best bet is to change all the o-rings to eliminate one cause and then troubleshoot further knowing that the o-rings have been covered.

Those little colored rubber grip bands that people use on their tanks for more might be a good tool to surround the air control ring to seal off air for a leak test. Wet it, install it over the air holes/ring and press it in place while you pull a vacuum on the drip tip.

 

[Maestro]

Having only used Kayfuns I can tell you that wicking is NEVER the problem with leaks. It's always the o-rings, especially the one in the center of the top cap. If it has a good seal, it won't leak, even without a wick. But you have to keep it upright. If you lay it down, you lose the vacuum and it will leak.

 

[hittman]

I agree that wicking is very important but some rta's do leak from manufacturer defect. My merlins leak around the bottom where it is press fitted together.

 

[Herrick]

Btw nano has been very difficult for me to get the wicking right. It's always a process with any new tank.

Same here. Actually at first it was fine then the second or third wicks gave me a lot of trouble. Flood Central. After trying to rewick a bunch of times, I tried just laying cotton tails over the holes and no more flooding. I haven't used this tank in weeks so I'm wondering if that method will work again.

 

[Don29palms]

Same here. Actually at first it was fine then the second or third wicks gave me a lot of trouble. Flood Central. After trying to rewick a bunch of times, I tried just laying cotton tails over the holes and no more flooding. I haven't used this tank in weeks so I'm wondering if that method will work again.

Just ever so slightly push the wick down on top of the holes. I've been doing it that way and it works great.

 

[Herrick]

Just ever so slightly push the wick down on top of the holes. I've been doing it that way and it works great.

Yeah I think that's what I did. The tails were just covering the holes. The odd thing is that some people put the tails all the way through even touching the deck and they have no problems.

I've also read somewhere (on another forum) that filling up the tank quickly will prevent flooding. Is that true? I'm not good at filling up the Engine Nano because I never know how full the tank will get until the liquid rises into view. I really don't like that side fill.

 

[Don29palms]

Yeah I think that's what I did. The tails were just covering the holes. The odd thing is that some people put the tails all the way through even touching the deck and they have no problems.

I've also read somewhere (on another forum) that filling up the tank quickly will prevent flooding. Is that true? I'm not good at filling up the Engine Nano because I never know how full the tank will get until the liquid rises into view. I really don't like that side fill.

Mine is a regular Engine. I use a unicorn bottle to fill it. I just tilt mine to fill it and yeah I usually fill it quick but I've never really paid attention to that to be honest.

 

[93gc40]

Having only used Kayfuns I can tell you that wicking is NEVER the problem with leaks. It's always the o-rings, especially the one in the center of the top cap. If it has a good seal, it won't leak, even without a wick. But you have to keep it upright. If you lay it down, you lose the vacuum and it will leak.

I'll agree the top rings are a weak point. But wick placement does matter. Mine dont leak except for condesation. Carry it them in my pocket all the time... hard to keep a nano tank on 18500 or 18350 tube upright all the time.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[93gc40]

Yeah my wick job in my nano was not as good as I had thought the other day. Had it in my pocket. Spent some time on its side when I was sitting. First hit. Mouth full of juice. So while it didn't "leak" in my pocket. It was a neater annoyance.

Btw nano has been very difficult for me to get the wicking right. It's always a process with any new tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wicking and building is a process for every atty tank or dripper even for every build and every kind of wick in every build in every atomizer. Sometimes that process is easy sometime not. Sometimes the gizmo your using just SUCKS.

Oh did I mention even the juice can affect everything else including the wicking.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[LilyWai]

Sorry but it is the wicking.
I have the Kanger Mini and had issues with leaking early on and wicking technique solved it and have just had major issue with Smok Baby Beast leaks...you guessed it - refining my wicking solved it (after much trial and error).
My advice would be buy some cheap juice and a wad of cotton, watch a heap of wicking videos on YouTube and practice.
I know it sounds like a record on repeat...but if you're leaking it is likely to be wicking technique.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

The wick can be deficient. But then it will leak from the airholes.

What I run into more often then that is when it just seems to seep. I found that to be lousy o-rings.

O-rings have makers, some committed to good quality, and some not so committed. The metal parts will be made to high specifications, but the o-rings not so.

I have often replaced factory o-rings with o-rings made here in the states.

The extra o-rings that come with the topper I take and compare to o-rings that I have bout separately. Many times they look slightly different.

Hope helps.

 

[Herrick]

Mine is a regular Engine. I use a unicorn bottle to fill it. I just tilt mine to fill it and yeah I usually fill it quick but I've never really paid attention to that to be honest.

Hmm...could be an Old Wives' Tale.

 

[DaveP]

Keeping the tank upright solves lots of problems. I like to pocket carry. When I sit down I always check to make sure the drip tip is pointed upward. Once the juice travels toward the drip tip, the vacuum equalizes through the open air port and there's nothing left to keep the juice from following when you stand up. It leaves through the chimney and out the air port

The concept is similar to the old soda straw trick. You dip the straw in water and put your finger over the top of the straw. Take the straw out of the water and vacuum holds the juice in until you remove your finger.

There may be other causes, but loss of vacuum will empty a tank rather quickly. Keep the air bubble on top near the drip tip.

 

[Don29palms]

Hmm...could be an Old Wives' Tale.

Maybe I should ask my old wife then even though she doesn't have a tail.

 

[Maestro]

The concept is similar to the old soda straw trick. You dip the straw in water and put your finger over the top of the straw. Take the straw out of the water and vacuum holds the juice in until you remove your finger.

Yes, but you can take your finger off the top if you use a more viscous fluid and block the bottom just the right amount so that it doesn't drip out by itself but still drips out a bit when you need it to. Of course it has to be just right each and every time and seems unnecessarily finicky compared to just making sure the vacuum is properly maintained in the first place.

 

[DaveP]

Yes, but you can take your finger off the top if you use a more viscous fluid and block the bottom just the right amount so that it doesn't drip out by itself but still drips out a bit when you need it to. Of course it has to be just right each and every time seems unnecessarily finicky compared to just making sure the vacuum is properly maintained in the first place.

Getting it right solves a lot of future issues. I recently noticed my Kayfun top cap o-ring was getting easier to insert the chimney top when I'd re-wick, so I replaced all the o-rings. The new top cap o-ring was much more snug. The top cap and the coil deck o-rings get a lot more abuse because we disassemble those parts more often to re-wick and recoil. O-ring fit is something we don't notice until we replace those parts.

Vacuum lock is the principle that prevents juice from flowing into the chimney and flooding it. We upset the balance when we take a hit. The air bubble that escapes is what allows more juice to enter the chimney at the right flow level.

Sure, you can vape a top coil atomizer with wicks that descend into the tank instead of a bottom coil atomizer, but vacuum seal is the trick that prevents leakage in most bottom coil atomizers. That process is finicky at times unless all the parts are working properly.

I suspect that many people who complain about pocket leakage might fix that problem with new o-rings coupled with keeping the tank vertical at all times. There's no leak proof atomizer when the tank heats up and the o-rings are marginal, IMO.

 

[Bhoot]

All tanks leak. Still. Best tank so far has been OBS engine, not nano ....e. Normal one. Only issue is that overfilling can cause build up in the air holes. Easily fixed by blowing the tank out. Personally. Best tank when I just need the tank to vape period

 

[ShowerHead]

I keep reading about wicking and people saying that it has to do with leaking. I struggle with the idea that cotton has anything to do with a tank leaking. It's cotton. It has no structural capabilities. It isn't part of the tank. The tank is made of glass/plastic, metal and seals. I can see how wicking affects how the tank heats the juice, dry hits, etc. but not leaking.

Yeah, trust me, the wicking controls leaks. Unless you have no seals which is unlikely. Do you get leaks from the airflow? Bingo! Wicking.

 

[ShowerHead]

All tanks leak. Still. Best tank so far has been OBS engine, not nano ....e. Normal one. Only issue is that overfilling can cause build up in the air holes. Easily fixed by blowing the tank out. Personally. Best tank when I just need the tank to vape period

That's my go to leakfree tank. Not a drop, no condensation. Easy to wick as well.