yes, sure Imeo, I know but... I don't understand the difference between the fuse and the "axis" (the latter being, btw, the same found in Stealths too)
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yes, sure Imeo, I know but... I don't understand the difference between the fuse and the "axis" (the latter being, btw, the same found in Stealths too)
I have already thought of that buddy
Thanks for the suggestion
you mean the upcoming batch will have rotated logo?
axis is a simple metal pl. Fuse is the same metal but it has 3 more parts inside it. The spring, the plastic insulator and the metal pin that makes contact with battery
I am not sure pl. Maybe the next batch after the upcoming, maybe on the upcoming.
you mean the upcoming batch will have rotated logo?
Imeo it used to happen with me when I have the 510 base on. When it happened I look at my thumb and I see it reaching only the base. Now I hold the whole body. Its just a matter of being more careful what you hold and with time it becomes a habit.
Sub,
I just got my TSAF+ in and it makes a big difference with making coils. They are much much smaller joins, cleaner builds, fits easier in the rebuildables and I should no longer have issues with jumping ohms since I no longer have kanthal going down the metal channel which if it moved would change my ohms.
I now fit more wraps in my build, approximately 2 inches of kanthal worth is about 7 wraps, and comes out perfect to 1.5 or 1.6 of 30 gauge kanthal A-1. I definitely noticed a difference in quality of vape as well with the extra wraps. Before I had about the same ohms but fewer wraps because of the twisted join and kanthal going down the metal channel.
Edit: Also, I didn't think my rebuildables would get better, but having joined wires is the icing on the cake for me.
I just got my TSAF+ in and it makes a big difference with making coils. They are much much smaller joins, cleaner builds, fits easier in the rebuildables and I should no longer have issues with jumping ohms since I no longer have kanthal going down the metal channel which if it moved would change my ohms.
I now fit more wraps in my build, approximately 2 inches of kanthal worth is about 7 wraps, and comes out perfect to 1.5 or 1.6 of 30 gauge kanthal A-1. I definitely noticed a difference in quality of vape as well with the extra wraps. Before I had about the same ohms but fewer wraps because of the twisted join and kanthal going down the metal channel.
Edit: Also, I didn't think my rebuildables would get better, but having joined wires is the icing on the cake for me.
Ithaka comes with clear tank evi and if you like you can purchase the steel window too
May i know when can we purchase the Steel window?
I understand aal. Maybe you keep the base because you fear that you have to keep it but that way you make things difficult without a reason. Keeping body is the natural and easy movement too
thats true long, thats why I made premade wires. No hassle, exellent joins
I will send the steel windows with GGTS batch or with Ithaka batch evil. GGTS batch will come sooner than Ithaka, so please keep an eye on "GG official announsments" thread to be informed about shipping dates
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Does it seem reasonable that I'm adjusting the basic feeder to where it's top is right in the middle of the window?
Imeo,
ZEN is creating a new series of his products. He is publishing the thread count so any modders can make attys that have large threads to fit on his devices. Also the other 5 or 6 mods I mentioned yesterday are already using the same threads.
So I'm sure back when you tried to get them to follow and do this the industry was very different than it is now. Many modders today are open to these new ideas.
I believe if you and Zen were to start doing this, everybody would follow. Your GG customers (myself included) will always buy your attys to go on our TS', but it would be very nice if we could use some forward thinking and start to change the high end mod industry to universally move away from the 510.
ZEN is creating a new series of his products. He is publishing the thread count so any modders can make attys that have large threads to fit on his devices. Also the other 5 or 6 mods I mentioned yesterday are already using the same threads.
So I'm sure back when you tried to get them to follow and do this the industry was very different than it is now. Many modders today are open to these new ideas.
I believe if you and Zen were to start doing this, everybody would follow. Your GG customers (myself included) will always buy your attys to go on our TS', but it would be very nice if we could use some forward thinking and start to change the high end mod industry to universally move away from the 510.
Yeah, that sounds about right. Mine sits a little lower than the middle of the window but I like a warm vape.
i need help its the sixth coil i make on my ithaka and i cant take a long draw whitout tasting dry (3 seconds) im using 3.5mm with a thread removed silika from cov the last working coil i used a 3mm fiber glass but im confident its not the wick the coil its no to tight or to lose and the ohms are stable i know it has to breake down the wick but its not getting any better any ideas thanks...
Nice move from Zen kw. But its too late now. I made my proposition when time was right but now every modder has its own threads. And changing my threads to meet other devices and make my customers spend money again is not reasonable.
To my opinion, if Zen wanted to do something nice, he could ask for a moders meeting, to find a new threading way, and not asking moders to make threads like his devices. That seems a little arogant to me if you agree
To my opinion, if Zen wanted to do something nice, he could ask for a moders meeting, to find a new threading way, and not asking moders to make threads like his devices. That seems a little arogant to me if you agree
An update of tight wires around wicks on Ithaka:
Smoke after 3 days is great, dry burning is much easier and the hit is exellent. The junk on wicks is much less and I believe that this way we can keep our coils alive for at least one month. We will forget to make coils lol
Smoke after 3 days is great, dry burning is much easier and the hit is exellent. The junk on wicks is much less and I believe that this way we can keep our coils alive for at least one month. We will forget to make coils lol
with all the respect I do have for Zen... yes: now that he begins making and selling single components instead of hybrids, plublishing *his* threads sounds... suspicious, at least :-(
One MONTH?! I did the tight method. Bobas just doesn't like being dry burned. I'm lucky to get 4 days. All my juices are dark and thick.
First I want to say that Ithaka vapes like a (moist) dream! 
But, I have not been able to refill without flooding. Up until today I've been satisfied with just filling to the edge of the top tube and with that only have a small amount of flooding. Today I refilled fully and when I put my top cap on, half of my tank flooded out. I close juice control and air control. I have even gone to a thicker 60pg/40vg mix with the same issue. My basic feeding is barely exposed but it has to be that right? Any advice is appreciated as I would love to be able to use Ithaka's capacity.
But, I have not been able to refill without flooding. Up until today I've been satisfied with just filling to the edge of the top tube and with that only have a small amount of flooding. Today I refilled fully and when I put my top cap on, half of my tank flooded out. I close juice control and air control. I have even gone to a thicker 60pg/40vg mix with the same issue. My basic feeding is barely exposed but it has to be that right? Any advice is appreciated as I would love to be able to use Ithaka's capacity.
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