To my opinion, tight draw happens only when wick is too close to the upper connection nut Shi.Maybe wick is push too hard to the ceramic. You will not see this issue with small nut because its short

Interesting... I wish I had a pic of the nut, I have no idea what is being referred to. As far as wicking and such... Here is my setup, the coils are sitting flat against the top of the internal atomizer housing. The coils cannot be seen when viewing from the side.
As for wick pushing up against the ceramic too hard, I am not sure what you mean by that.
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I mean that you may push the wick deep on ceramic so it comes too close to where the air comes shi. But maybe a small piece of metal or wick is inside the center post. Put a needle inside center post to clean it
How are the parallel coils, Shiryo? It certainly looks beautiful. I just have it drilled in my head to always have the coils directly in line with the center post hole. I still need to try those micro coils like you've got going on.
What is your total resistance there?
Also, I get a really tite draw with the air control wide open. It seems like a vacuum effect that gets tighter as i continue to inhale. or maybe my lungs just get more tired as I keep trying to take hits from it
Ah ok, I was just curious. I started out using silver as well but I kept breakign it off in Ithaka (it worked better in Ody) so I moved on to nickel.. much easier to work with - just a tip
Your coils look great, I keep seeing these very tight/no gap coils that everyone is making, I gotta try that out.. and still need to try ribbon kanthal!
Glad it's working out for you!
Shi, try to inhale with your Ithaka outside your mod. If its airy then its a fault of your mod.
That happened to me the other day, tight draw with air control wide open. It was a little piece of char inside the center post, as my Ithaka was full of liquid and my setup was perfect, I did not disassemble it, just used a needle to clear the obstruction (inserted it from the bottom part of the center post).
If there is any residue material on the mod 510 connector, it could clog the center post air intake, it could be also a piece of silica, a bur or a piece of wire.
my experience is totally different aal. Gurgling is caused because center post is near wicks and drops of liquid reach it easily and overflooding is caused because liquid raise inside ceramic and reach the center post. Holes on ceramic leave liquid to escape on small tank and refeed wicks so we dont have overflooding and short nut cant be reached by liquid so we dont have gurgling.
Bish dont have the small nut to see the difference. When he will have it in his hands he will change his opinion
Video is coming soon about this. I recieved the new nut Wednesday and I been using it. So far I have to tell you. NO!!! I HAVE TO SHOW YOU!!! FORGETABOUTIT!!!!!!!. Stay tune I'll post it on Youtube later today.
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Yeah I been using the mini-micro setups for the past 2 months now, i love them, lower resistance, more area burning and best part is same performance of a sub-ohm with the flavor of... well tons of flavor lol!
Check out my RDA build...
Yeah, I have tried it off the mod and it's a liiiittle better, I guess i'm just too used to dual 2mm air holes on RDAs... But I do notice a slight bit of added airflow tightness when I put it on my Nemesis... Nemesis is brand new too, I don't see anything clogging up the air holes on it.
I wonder if a bigger center post tube or variation will be possible, would like to be able to adjust it as open as a 5-6mm air hole, down to a 1.5mm air hole.
Bish, you are a mad man, bro. Gotta love it. Looking forward to your comments.
- Andy
great picture , but you know darn well Steve there is only one mod in that picture that wont leave your turnout gear pocket full of juice after crawling around in a structure fire!sadly , I speak from experience. LOL
GG is the only high end pocket friendly vape for high stress work environments!
again great pic brother!