Ithaka official

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dmall

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burn taste after an hour means that something is not right dmall. Use 2 or 2,5 mm fat wicks

I've tried with 2.5mm and 3mm wicks. Single coil around two 3mm wicks then put 1 3mm wick in each slot. 2.4 to 2.6ohm wicks because I use a vamo because I don't have a mechanical mod. I don't know what else to do. I've used kanthal and silver and used nichrome and silver. I've even tried hemp for the wick since I've had great luck with hemp in other attys. The hemp and the silica do the same thing. I am about to give up or take a break from it!
 

imeothanasis

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you are the only one with burn taste on Ithaka dmall. Its very strange, especially on an atomizer that gets feeded from 4 wicks and also has a basic feeding option.

Ok, try 2mm wicks

or

leave basic feeding totally open so it will feed all 4 wicks.

try the first option first and then the second one with 2,5mm wicks

And dont leave wire loosy against the wick
 

dmall

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you are the only one with burn taste on Ithaka dmall. Its very strange, especially on an atomizer that gets feeded from 4 wicks and also has a basic feeding option.

Ok, try 2mm wicks

or

leave basic feeding totally open so it will feed all 4 wicks.

try the first option first and then the second one with 2,5mm wicks

And dont leave wire loosy against the wick

I have coil tightly done and basic feed totally open already. Like I said I have reviewed every video (more than once) and read every post trying to figure it out.
 

Devonmoonshire

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I believe I have found my Perfect set up, I have 2 pieces of 3.5mm wick with two strands removed and the coil wrapped around both at the same time to join them. Single coil with 30 AWG Kanthal and 32 AWG Nickel NR Wire 4 wraps with the joining in the ceramic cup with only the NR wire going down the channels. This allows to have two tails on either side so one can go down each channel. I have the feeder slots completely off the channels and only use the mouthpiece for juice control. It has been 1 wk since I built this and I have changed juices three times, every time it has taken to the new juice right off the start and it vapes incredibly well, perfect flavor, perfect warmth and loads of vapor. Will be running my current tank dry and then checking the coil to see how much build up I have and try a dry burn to clean.

IMEO my Friend you have truly outdone yourself this time :D
Sincerely;
Nate
 

fright88

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imeo...how in the world can you get a month out of a coil? I am doing my happy dance to get 3 days on a coil. what are the ingredients in your juice? water and alcohol??? I joke but seriously...I have tried to dry burn but never get satisfactory results and I refuse to wash ...wash ... wash the wick and wires...waste of water/waste of electricity heating the water...cheaper and faster to build a new wick and wire.

more than happy to learn how you are managing 1 month coil.

I think a lot of it has to do with your juice. Historically I couldn't get anything to last more then a couple days with my old favorite juice. However a couple months ago I started making my own Monster flavored e-juice and over night all my coils last much much longer then they ever had before. For example my current Ithaka setup is over 2 weeks old. I just do a dry burn every now and then followed by a light brush off (I can't blow hard enough to blow off the burnt off buildup) followed usually by a quick rinse off finally I dry burn it a bit to dry the wicks off. My last Penelope coil was over a month old although I don't use it quite as much as my Ithaka. My RSM also has an A7 sitting on it and it's coils have been lasting about 3 weeks since I made the switch as well.

I don't have a set amount of times I dry burn because it depends on a bunch of factors but I NEVER power for more then about 4 seconds. Maybe it is mental but it seems like if I power it longer then that it almost burns the wick. So normally it is powered 4 seconds on then 2-3 seconds off and repeat over and over till the coil stops looking like it has soot on it while powered. If this doesn't happen within about 10 cycles I usually lightly brush off the coil and repeat (make sure to let it cool for a bit before brushing it off) And I repeat this till the wires look like they no longer have anything on them. Once there I just rinse off with warm water and then pat the whole thing to dry it as well as I can followed by a couple more dry burns.
 

fright88

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First I want to say that Ithaka vapes like a (moist) dream! :laugh:

But, I have not been able to refill without flooding. Up until today I've been satisfied with just filling to the edge of the top tube and with that only have a small amount of flooding. Today I refilled fully and when I put my top cap on, half of my tank flooded out. I close juice control and air control. I have even gone to a thicker 60pg/40vg mix with the same issue. My basic feeding is barely exposed but it has to be that right? Any advice is appreciated as I would love to be able to use Ithaka's capacity.

If the previous advice hasn't helped just a couple quick things to try.

1 Make sure your wicks don't extend down past the o-ring that secures the posative wire. This can leave a place juice can drain down the sides of the center post.
2 Get an o-ring that is big enough to sit snugly on the ceramic housing. Put it on between the basic feeding and the mouthpiece. If the juice stops draining when filling it is possible there is something making the mouthpiece not make a good seal and letting juice in.
3 Close basic feeding completely.
 

Rajuisha

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Hi Imeo and all you GG fans.

Imeo. When you send the next batch of ggts's will we only have the option to buy SS GGTS or can we opt to have a full brass GGTS. I would love to own a full brass GGTS as I never have owned one. I really don't want to buy a SS GGTS then have to buy brass sections just to have a brass GG and then for me the stainless steel just lie around doing nothing but going to waste. Thanks
 

Aal_

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River, I just made a new coil and i am experiencing the flooding issue. i go from dry hit, to flooding instantly when i open the mouthpiece. I am also suspecting the center post being loose. I don't have pliers now to tighten it.

Guys i think i know where the flooding is taking place. Just a guess from my observations. When i screwed down the center post, it was crooked a little bit. That leads me to think that liquid is escaping in between the oring and the center post. The oring cannot have a perfect seal when the post is crooked. What lead me to believe that also is that I had a lot of liquid in the 510 adapter which makes me think that maybe liquid is escaping around the center post and not through it. I loosened the ruibuildable part a little bit, then screwed it very tight to the base. I dont have flooding anymore. But any way the crooked center post can be caused buy a not so tight center post which i still think is the main problem.
 

Vapor2112

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XC-116 (nextel) wick came in, but my current wick / coil is just on 2 weeks old and still vaping perfectly so I don't want to tear it apart yet. What I can say, is that the stuff is performing very well in some other devices, I'm actually looking forward to my current coil in the Ithaka starting to fade, lol.
 

imeothanasis

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Thanks a lot Devon my friend. I am very happy that you found your vaping nirvana:)
I believe I have found my Perfect set up, I have 2 pieces of 3.5mm wick with two strands removed and the coil wrapped around both at the same time to join them. Single coil with 30 AWG Kanthal and 32 AWG Nickel NR Wire 4 wraps with the joining in the ceramic cup with only the NR wire going down the channels. This allows to have two tails on either side so one can go down each channel. I have the feeder slots completely off the channels and only use the mouthpiece for juice control. It has been 1 wk since I built this and I have changed juices three times, every time it has taken to the new juice right off the start and it vapes incredibly well, perfect flavor, perfect warmth and loads of vapor. Will be running my current tank dry and then checking the coil to see how much build up I have and try a dry burn to clean.

IMEO my Friend you have truly outdone yourself this time :D
Sincerely;
Nate
 

imeothanasis

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you can ask your seller if he can do that for you Raj:)
Hi Imeo and all you GG fans.

Imeo. When you send the next batch of ggts's will we only have the option to buy SS GGTS or can we opt to have a full brass GGTS. I would love to own a full brass GGTS as I never have owned one. I really don't want to buy a SS GGTS then have to buy brass sections just to have a brass GG and then for me the stainless steel just lie around doing nothing but going to waste. Thanks
 

imeothanasis

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Feb 13, 2009
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I send all Ithaka with the center pin placed in center. If people dissasembled it and then assembled it the wrong way then they can have flooding issues aal as you said. What you can do is this:



Guys i think i know where the flooding is taking place. Just a guess from my observations. When i screwed down the center post, it was crooked a little bit. That leads me to think that liquid is escaping in between the oring and the center post. The oring cannot have a perfect seal when the post is crooked. What lead me to believe that also is that I had a lot of liquid in the 510 adapter which makes me think that maybe liquid is escaping around the center post and not through it. I loosened the ruibuildable part a little bit, then screwed it very tight to the base. I dont have flooding anymore. But any way the crooked center post can be caused buy a not so tight center post which i still think is the main problem.
 
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