if they are using the same switch as the reo grands .6 and up ohm coil should be fine in amps i think thats like 5 or 6 amps i dont have the calculator lol mines at .41 and it might be melting a little. i gotta press farther down for it to squonk
Its woodvil time
- Thread starter redeyedancer
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- evic
- Status
i modify my buttons, but a 0.5Ω coil on a 4.2v battery will deliver 8.4A
just saying.
T
just saying.
T
The Grand is a mechanical mod - it has no normal switch.
The Woodvils are completely different and have 2 electrical switches each - one is an on/off switch in the bottom and one is a fire switch at the side.
Again: Until Robert confirms high amperage spec of those switches, I wouldn't recommend anything below 1 Ohm on woodvils.
At 1 ohm coil + 0.1 ohm minimum contact resistance (switches and battery contacts), and a battery that drops to say 4V under load, gives 4/1.1 = 3.6A. Should be safe as houses, yes.
Being new to vaping, and making twice as much vapor as a normal cigarette makes smoke with a 1.7 ohm coil, I'm a bit lost as to why people like to sub-ohm, and I don't really want to go there in case I like it
I'm happy where I am, and can do without using 3 x the juice and 3 x the battery power. Oh, I just threw that in there because we've got another week to fill in waiting for THE PICS! I guess whatever keeps you off the analogs is the main thing!
Being new to vaping, and making twice as much vapor as a normal cigarette makes smoke with a 1.7 ohm coil, I'm a bit lost as to why people like to sub-ohm, and I don't really want to go there in case I like it
I'm happy where I am, and can do without using 3 x the juice and 3 x the battery power. Oh, I just threw that in there because we've got another week to fill in waiting for THE PICS! I guess whatever keeps you off the analogs is the main thing!
These are not sub ohm mods the switch is the same switch I have always used in wood mods 3 amp . This will be the last time I make standard wood mods the next load of wood mods will ether have a mechanical switch like the grand or a upgraded push button . If your a super sub ohm guy this is not the mod for you unless you change the push button switch .
I've been running mine at 1.1 for months with no problems with IMR AW 18650s. I'm not saying to do this but my experience has been AOK.
I always assume a fully charged battery - the difference between that and reality gives you a little safety margin. The lowest i ever run on a woodvil is about 1.3Ω, because it is also the lowest my mods with electronics need to fire at all, so i can use the same atty on them all.
There are different rules for my grand.
T
There are different rules for my grand.
T
Care and feeding question: Does the light/blond colored wood darken with use? Does the wood (any color) absorb juice or become stained? I assume they're treated with something stain-resistant when they're made, but is that a finish that will have to be reapplied periodically? I don't mind a little maintenance, but I'm not a careful person, even when I want to be, and I'm not one to baby my gear - cuz it's, you know, gear. But the Woodie is also art, and art must be preserved and protected and cared for, which could potentially limit its functionality in the hands of someone like me. So I guess my question is where along the gear-art continuum does the Woodie fall?
Others will add to this question I am sure. They are a lot more rugged than many suspect. Many wood mods that are made are glued pieces. Usually the sides are glued to the top and bottom. I don't think those will hold up like a Woodvil does. THe Woodville body is one nice hunk of solid wood with a fairly thick door that is solidly held in place. I take my Woodvil just about every where with me. Theres no need for Noalox and cleaning the firing pin as is done with the metal Reos. My Woodvil is polyurethaned. I haven't done a thing to the exterior other than an occasional wipe down with a cloth. It still looks new. Many people use Howards Feed and Wax with UV protection on their Woodvils but I'm not sure what finishes their Woodvils are that they use this on. I do treat the inside every 4 months or so with Howards Butcher Block Conditioner. All that being said the Grands would be better for real harsh conditions. THe Woodvils feel great in the hand, they are great to admire and show off, they vape well and its nice to have something thats hand built and crafted by some dude that lives in Maine and feeds porcupines and yodels while trying to sing the blues.
PS. THe brass RM2s look great and vape so well on the Woodies.
PS. THe brass RM2s look great and vape so well on the Woodies.
I use the Howards' Sunshield for the UV protection. I use it on all of my wood REO's. It goes inside and out. The wax will offer some protection against any juice that might get inside. On the outside the wax with UV protection will help prevent the darkening of some of the woods that will turn with age and exposure to sunlight. Purpleheart and Cocobolo are known to darken. The UV was has kept this to a minimum on mine.
If not waxed on the inside you will get discolorations from spilled juice as it is absorbed. The inside of the wood REO's is not finished like the outside.
I keep all mine inside. I apply wax periodically as I notice any drying inside.
To me the care that is required for the woods is but a small price to pay for these magnificent, well crafted, and beautiful functional pieces of art.
Karen and her UV protection. 
If you lived in a log cabin you'd be forever polishing!
T
If you lived in a log cabin you'd be forever polishing!
T
As a woodworker (hobby, not profession), I think it's important to finish both sides of the wood, whether it shows or not. Especially true on wood that will be outside, and on thinner wood. If you only finish one side, the wood has more of a tendency to cup or warp, as the unfinished side will absorb moisture from the atmosphere at a higher rate than the finished side.
BTW, nerak...I think it's time for a new monkey pic. That one is freakin' me out.
Sent from my iPad
BTW, nerak...I think it's time for a new monkey pic. That one is freakin' me out.
Sent from my iPad
Hey I posed for that pic. That was after I got my first Reo and before the drool started
I hadn't even considered UV effects - I was mostly thinking about the absorption of oil/sweat from my hands or juice dribbles on the top. Doesn't sound like a difficult or involved maintenance regimen, though, and as it would likely be a house mod, it wouldn't be overly exposed to the elements. Still, I think one of the darker colors would be better for me. Sure do like the ones with the light colored doors, though.
If some of this run end up with a tung oil finish instead of poly, you might try to grab one. I 've enjoyed the way tung oiled cocobolo & ebony age. Haven't seen Jatoba yet, but think it may be in the same catergory.
I know that purpleheart will turn brown with UV exposure...and cherry gets darker...
Sent from my iPad
Sent from my iPad
Woodvils first coat set #3
[URL=http://s299.photobucket.com/user/redeyedancer/media/003_zps261eb287.jpg.html][/URL]
It's impossible to keep up with this thread casually, so forgive me if this has been observed before. R2, c7. Is anyone else seeing edvard munch?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
- Status
