Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

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TrollDragon

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How do u tell a Cuboid u have a new tank on it? I had to fire it without any atty, then when I screwed it back on & fired it finally recognized it was a different tank.

tapatyped
I find it easier to unlock the resistance before you remove the old tank, hit fire a few times with no tank installed and then install the new tank. If the new tank has a big enough change in resistance, the Cuboid will ask the New/Same question. This only happens randomly and I don't think there is a way to force it.
 

52anddone

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The changing resistance looks to be the GS II and it's spring loaded pin.

I find as you step through the settings and choices by right clicking to go from Ti back to Ni. The value you have set for power will have dropped by a few points. I have the power mode set for 50W, if I change the atty and put the Cuboid in a TC mode, when I go back to power mode again the watts will now be 49.9 then 49.8 and so on.

I'm not stepping thru the settings though, I just take the tank off, unscrew the bottom and re-fill, then screw the bottom back on and screw the Taifun back onto my Cuboid then tap the button to look at my settings, and their changed. Maybe it is the spring, I have heard that it causes problems in TC mode, but I didn't think it would in Power/Kanthal mode. What you are experiencing is interesting also.
 
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52anddone

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I checked resistance before I unscrewed the Taifun from my Cuboid and got 1.31Ω, cleaned the screw/spring in the Taifun 510 assembly and reassembled and screwed it in tightly and got a resistance of 1.28Ω, so we'll see what happens now. I'm running Kanthal (for those just tuning in) and didn't expect to be seeing any drift, it surprised me. I'll keep an eye on it for sure. Maybe it's my Taifun doing this ??
 
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KenD

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I'm not stepping thru the settings though, I just take the tank off, unscrew the bottom and re-fill, then screw the bottom back on and screw the Taifun back onto my Cuboid then tap the button to look at my settings, and their changed. Maybe it is the spring, I have heard that it causes problems in TC mode, but I didn't think it would in Power/Kanthal mode. What you are experiencing is interesting also.
The problem spring-loaded 510s cause for tc is unstable resistance, and that the case with spring-loaded 510s in power mode as well. It's just that the fluctuating resistance isn't as much of a problem in power mode.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

t8kiteasy

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Received two new RDA's for testing with TC mode Black Widow and the Magma V2.I have a Ti build on the Black widow right now which I have been using for about 2 hours and I do not like the vape.I am not sure Ti will be in the future for me in vaping.I have a dual coil Ni made to put on later on today they are 3mm coils that ohm'd out at 0.085 for the build.this might be a little too low for TC to work.Might have to make two more coils a little higher res. for back up.Who ever out there is using and likes Ti builds what am I missing with these wires?? I think I will quad coil the Magma V2 and try to stay in TC range with it,i hope.
 
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TrollDragon

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Received two new RDA's for testing with TC mode Black Widow and the Magma V2.I have a Ti build on the Black widow right now which I have been using for about 2 hours and I do not like the vape.I am not sure Ti will be in the future for me in vaping.I have a dual coil Ni made to put on later on today they are 3mm coils that ohm'd out at 0.085 for the build.this might be a little too low for TC to work.Might have to make two more coils a little higher res. for back up.Who ever out there is using and likes Ti builds what am I missing with these wires?? I think I will quad coil the Magma V2 and try to stay in TC range with it,i hope.
I have a dual Ti build in my Snapdragon 26g 8/7 on 2.5mm for 0.22 ohm, vapes great on the D2 @ 35J/460F, not so much on the Cuboid.
 

MeeGz

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Just a bit of an update from my last post at the end of December; I've I had my cuboid for a while now and I love it. I am a newbie that started with an ego style battery with an Aspire CE5 tank. It lasted less than a week. That being said it only took somewhere around 3-5 days to kick a 13/14 year - 2 pack/day habit. I very quickly switched to the Kanger subvod kit and not that long after ordered my cuboid. Currently it is mostly paired with a crowntank @.5 or the RBA. Other times it's paired with my Avocado. I've been, as I mentioned, pretty happy with it.

Currently I'm running sets of LG HE4s @20A. From what I understand this device calls for 25A batteries. However there doesn't seem to be a performance hit, the owner of a local vape shop said that when he used the crowntank he preferred the .5 coil and it was performing as it should. He did however recommend 30A batteries. Do I really need them? If it's performing well and my battery life is good why would I? Is there any real facts behind his suggestion or was it just a sales pitch?

I know it can be very hard for vape shops to just get by let alone turn a profit this day in age. Heck, I buy almost all of my stuff on the internet as it is considerably cheaper, and that also includes juice. The biggest disadvantage to that which I am able to see is expertise. If it weren't for these boards and YouTube I'd be flying blind. I wish there was a happy medium for people like me. I really want to support local businesses and the industry in this country but ATM I'm on unemployment with a family to support. I feel bad even stopping by to ask any questions. Sorry for derailing. I sometimes go off on a tangent...
 
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ian91

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It depends on how you vape. I run either Samsung 30Q (15A) or LG 18650MJ1 (10A) batteries in mine. I run 1 ohm coils at about 17.5watts so am only at about 4.2A. Either of these batteries should be fine. If you are running low own coils at high wattage then you want the higher amperage batteries. You should be able to work out what suits you.
 
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MeeGz

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It depends on how you vape. I run either Samsung 30Q (15A) or LG 18650MJ1 (10A) batteries in mine. I run 1 ohm coils at about 17.5watts so am only at about 4.2A. Either of these batteries should be fine. If you are running low own coils at high wattage then you want the higher amperage batteries. You should be able to work out what suits you.


My mod never hits more than 12 amps. The advice in regards to batteries didn't seem to make much sense to me but I figured I'd ask. As always, I appreciate the prompt reply.

It appears that I would only need 25 amps if I were to use a .229 ohm coil(per ohms law, if algebra hasn't failed me). Maybe this explains why the TC nickel coils that ran at .15 on my crown never worked quite right? They did, however, work for a time. This leads me to believe I'm missing something here unless the voltage required was lower in TC mode with nickel. It's been a while but doesn't the formula state: amps = volts/ohms?

MeeGz
 
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kbeam418

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Just thought I would chime in and say that I'm loving the cuboid. I've only had it since yesterday but it's been a joy using it so far. The reason why this device heats up (I think) is because of the heatsinks they use on the board. As far as battery life is concerned it seems to be the same as all my other dual 18650 mods, I can easily last all day with a tritton 1.8 at around 20w. I just wish they would take that stupid smart mode out of the menu.
 

GeorgeS

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    People in these forums over-over-rate everything. While it is easy to give advice when someone else is footing the bill the major reason is noone wants to have a battery vent on someone who got overly optimistic advice.

    I run LG HG2's in my Cuboid. Always in TC with maximum wattage of 40W or less. The seemingly lowish wattage is not to avoid damaging the batteries but rather for longer usage between charges - besides the builds I make really don't need more than 20-40W of power to give me a decent vape. (I regularly use 28AWG wire and build on the north side of 0.5ohms)

    YMMV.

    (and NO, I don't "babysit" my batteries while being charged and YES if there is a USB charge port, I'll more often than not use it.)
     
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