Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

[MotorcityVapeman]

I agree with Grimm Green, I just want to vape! I am thinking the same, they have just not perfected this TC stuff, just to throw it onto the market and tell us it is the future of vaping then let us figure it out, that's just lame!!!!
But did you notice in the video 2 high end DNA200's and our Cuboid, had 3 different readings? So I guess you need a temp probe to make sure the atty is at room temp before you set it on the device and lock in the ohms?? Now I am wondering how well it is at determining the temp, when you set it at 450 F is it really 450 F? I could use my exergen temp gun and check the temp at the coil and see if it is really hitting that temp?

 

[pappasmurfsharem]

I agree with Grimm Green, I just want to vape! I am thinking the same, they have just not perfected this TC stuff, just to throw it onto the market and tell us it is the future of vaping then let us figure it out, that's just lame!!!!
But did you notice in the video 2 high end DNA200's and our Cuboid, had 3 different readings? So I guess you need a temp probe to make sure the atty is at room temp before you set it on the device and lock in the ohms?? Now I am wondering how well it is at determining the temp, when you set it at 450 F is it really 450 F? I could use my exergen temp gun and check the temp at the coil and see if it is really hitting that temp?

In regards to Grimm's video, fairly confident he didn't have any of them setup correctly for temp control. Did you hear how hard that DNA200 hit at 400?

400 is a very COOL vape.

 

[MotorcityVapeman]

Yes I heard the coil popping! I am just not sold on the TC, not blaming the Cuboid, I have Ccells in both Ni200 and Kanthal, I can not get the Ni200's to work as good as the kanthal? the flavor is so much better! And I am noticing that in TC mode, you have to vape/hit/draw/toke it longer and harder to produce the volume of vape. Do not know if that is just me or what?

 

[Tpat591]

Grimm Green did not let the atty cool as he was switching it between mods in beginning thus establishing a false base reading throwing off the mods calibration. Once he let it cool properly all three read same resistance and performed more consistantly. His video only goes to show his incompetence as a reviewer of temperature control devices.

 

[pappasmurfsharem]

Yes I heard the coil popping! I am just not sold on the TC, not blaming the Cuboid, I have Ccells in both Ni200 and Kanthal, I can not get the Ni200's to work as good as the kanthal? the flavor is so much better! And I am noticing that in TC mode, you have to vape/hit/draw/toke it longer and harder to produce the volume of vape. Do not know if that is just me or what?

Depends.

What settings are you running the Ni200 at and what wattage are you running Kanthal at?

 

[Light Seeker]

And I am noticing that in TC mode, you have to vape/hit/draw/toke it longer and harder to produce the volume of vape. Do not know if that is just me or what?

Well, kinda. TC gives me a totally consistent vape no matter how long I'm pressing the button. In power mode, coils just keeps getting hotter & hotter longer u fire, so yes, it will produce more vape volume over time. The key is to setup your tcr & wattage in tc mode to your preference.

tapatyped

 

[Light Seeker]

TrollDragon, see by your pic you have the earlier version of Cuboid than me (dark gray). Makes me wonder if joytech changed more than just paint suppliers. Be interesting to see if those that are having TC issues, compared to those that aren't, May be related to mfg date.

tapatyped

 

[MotorcityVapeman]

Okay hope I am not upsetting anyone here, not my intention! I am new to website and vaping! quit the smokes at christmas, have a Istick tc 40w and Nautilus and mini, was not helping me quit so I went to sub ohming and it helped me totally, still crave a smoke, but I am NOT giving in to it!!!
I am vaping the kanthals at 21 watts using a Aspire Triton 2 and the Cuboid!
On TC with Ccell Ni200 coil and 3 tank fulls, I first failed, Vapor and clouds, no flavor, very muted!
Second attempt same Ccell Ni200 coil Had a little bit of flavor and cloud, but not as good! I have it at 480 F and at 50 watts.

 

[t8kiteasy]

TrollDragon, see by your pic you have the earlier version of Cuboid than me (dark gray). Makes me wonder if joytech changed more than just paint suppliers. Be interesting to see if those that are having TC issues, compared to those that aren't, May be related to mfg date.

tapatyped

I have 3 including the dark gray and it performs in TC mode.So far I have been strickly using SS because I love the flavor I get from it.My black and silver Cuboids are aslo performing just fine with the same SS coils so far but I am going to start making some ni and Ti coils this weekend and see if there is a problem between wires that are being used.

 

[Light Seeker]

I have 3 including the dark gray and it performs in TC mode.So far I have been strickly using SS because I love the flavor I get from it.My black and silver Cuboids are aslo performing just fine with the same SS coils so far but I am going to start making some ni and Ti coils this weekend and see if there is a problem between wires that are being used.

Thanks for confirming doesn't matter!

I totally agree about SS, luv the stuff either in TC or power modes, I'll be ordering more. Tried nickel, had a strange taste & hard to work with, ymmv.

I'm not too sure trying TC on store bought coils is valid. Have no idea what quality of metal or mfg may be used in these, & seems like perusing thru forum there's a lot of dissapointment using store bought coils with TC. I don't know, all my attys are RBAs.... I wouldn't buy an atty where it isn't.

tapatyped

 

[Light Seeker]

Okay hope I am not upsetting anyone here, not my intention! I am new to website and vaping! quit the smokes at christmas, have a Istick tc 40w and Nautilus and mini, was not helping me quit so I went to sub ohming and it helped me totally, still crave a smoke, but I am NOT giving in to it!!!
I am vaping the kanthals at 21 watts using a Aspire Triton 2 and the Cuboid!
On TC with Ccell Ni200 coil and 3 tank fulls, I first failed, Vapor and clouds, no flavor, very muted!
Second attempt same Ccell Ni200 coil Had a little bit of flavor and cloud, but not as good! I have it at 480 F and at 50 watts.

Sure not upsetting me, thing I learned long ago is ya sometimes have to wear your big boy pants in these forums

I also have a tc40, it kinda sucks for TC since nothing is settable. I use it in power mode, great little box for out n about. Wife uses 1 constantly switching up with a TC30 when the 40 is charging.

tapatyped

 

[t8kiteasy]

Thanks for confirming doesn't matter!

I totally agree about SS, luv the stuff either in TC or power modes, I'll be ordering more. Tried nickel, had a strange taste & hard to work with, ymmv.

I'm not too sure trying TC on store bought coils is valid. Have no idea what quality of metal or mfg may be used in these, & seems like perusing thru forum there's a lot of dissapointment using store bought coils with TC. I don't know, all my attys are RBAs.... I wouldn't buy an atty where it isn't.

tapatyped

I do not use store bought coils either. All of mine are RBA/RTA's also. Even when I get those free coils that come with a new RBA that coil is usually the first thing I throw out,along with the tiny screwdriver.

 

[Light Seeker]

Wish I woulda kept all the little blue screwdrivers over the years. Some post photos of all their vaping hardware. I'd rather post a photo of all my little screwdrivers.

tapatyped

 

[t8kiteasy]

Wish I woulda kept all the little blue screwdrivers over the years. Some post photos of all their vaping hardware. I'd rather post a photo of all my little screwdrivers.

tapatyped

This made me laugh a little too hard today and still chuckling as I post this.

 

[MotorcityVapeman]

Yeah the TC 40 is a good back up when I am charging my Cuboid batteries. I didn't like both Nautilus's, it's like sucking a McDonald shake through the smallest straw you can find! By the time you get a hit/toke/vape you are winded and tired to take another vape! I bought that thing a month before I quit smoking, it just wasn't doing it for me! So sub ohming is the way for me to stay smoke free. I like the flavor so been doing the research before the RDA purchase.

 

[GeorgeS]

The only real problem I have with Joytech's is how they handle switching tanks.

• On my Apollo Reliant any time you remove the tank and place the same (or another one on, it does not matter) it ALWAYS asks if it is new or old.
• On my YiHi chipped devices it is up to the USER to set/lock in the resistance. You can swap tanks all day long and it will NEVER ask if it is a different tank - the user has to tell the mod by pressing two buttons to lock in a new resistance.
• On my Dicodes #6, it never asks if there is a new tank or not. Once the resistance is set/locked in by the user THAT is the calibration the mod uses until the user recalibrates (much like the YiHi)

eLeaf, Joytech and others keep attempting to 'out smart' the user by doing self recalibrations and deciding for ITSELF that whatever tank you just installed is not actually NEW and sticking with whatever resistance calibration it already has in memory.

More users have more problems with this "feature" than any other. I've resigned to leave tanks mounted instead of swapping them because of the seemingly unreliability of the process.

(most of my tanks are now 'top fill' so there is no reason to remove them as I have more mods and tanks than I know what to do with)

My cuboid works flawlessly as I have had the same top fill (TFV4) tank mounted almost since I first got it.

 

[TrollDragon]

On my YiHi chipped devices it is up to the USER to set/lock in the resistance. You can swap tanks all day long and it will NEVER ask if it is a different tank - the user has to tell the mod by pressing two buttons to lock in a new resistance.

That should be the way on all TC mods, it works perfectly.

 

[Light Seeker]

How do u tell a Cuboid u have a new tank on it? I had to fire it without any atty, then when I screwed it back on & fired it finally recognized it was a different tank.

tapatyped

 

[52anddone]

The only real problem I have with Joytech's is how they handle switching tanks.

• On my Apollo Reliant any time you remove the tank and place the same (or another one on, it does not matter) it ALWAYS asks if it is new or old.
• On my YiHi chipped devices it is up to the USER to set/lock in the resistance. You can swap tanks all day long and it will NEVER ask if it is a different tank - the user has to tell the mod by pressing two buttons to lock in a new resistance.
• On my Dicodes #6, it never asks if there is a new tank or not. Once the resistance is set/locked in by the user THAT is the calibration the mod uses until the user recalibrates (much like the YiHi)

eLeaf, Joytech and others keep attempting to 'out smart' the user by doing self recalibrations and deciding for ITSELF that whatever tank you just installed is not actually NEW and sticking with whatever resistance calibration it already has in memory.

More users have more problems with this "feature" than any other. I've resigned to leave tanks mounted instead of swapping them because of the seemingly unreliability of the process.

(most of my tanks are now 'top fill' so there is no reason to remove them as I have more mods and tanks than I know what to do with)

My cuboid works flawlessly as I have had the same top fill (TFV4) tank mounted almost since I first got it.

Maybe that explains why whenever I take my Taifun GT-2-S off my Cuboid to do a re-fill and screw it back on the mod I get a slightly different Ω reading, like this last time it went from 1.32Ω before re-fill to 1.38Ω after re-fill. That is with a Twisted Kanthal build set to Power Mode and Watts set to 13.5 before re-fill and showed up as 13.3 after re-fill (Key Lock activated the whole time) which I had to re-set back to 13.5 Watts, not the first time this has happened either. I have checked everything to be sure all is making a tight connection, but makes no difference, still does it (not just going up in resistance a few 100's of an ohm, but also down in resistance a few 100's of an ohm). I'm wondering if I have a cold solder joint somewhere (510 pin maybe ?), or could it be that spring around the 510 screw of the Taifun. Does that sound happen to others ?? I mean, it's not really any big deal to me.

 

[TrollDragon]

Maybe that explains why whenever I take my Taifun GT-2-S off my Cuboid to do a re-fill and screw it back on the mod I get a slightly different Ω reading, like this last time it went from 1.32Ω before re-fill to 1.38Ω after re-fill. That is with a Twisted Kanthal build set to Power Mode and Watts set to 13.5 before re-fill and showed up as 13.3 after re-fill (Key Lock activated the whole time) which I had to re-set back to 13.5 Watts, not the first time this has happened either. I have checked everything to be sure all is making a tight connection, but makes no difference, still does it (not just going up in resistance a few 100's of an ohm, but also down in resistance a few 100's of an ohm). I'm wondering if I have a cold solder joint somewhere (510 pin maybe ?), or could it be that spring around the 510 screw of the Taifun. Does that sound happen to others ?? I mean, it's not really any big deal to me.

The changing resistance looks to be the GS II and it's spring loaded pin.

I find as you step through the settings and choices by right clicking to go from Ti back to Ni. The value you have set for power will have dropped by a few points. I have the power mode set for 50W, if I change the atty and put the Cuboid in a TC mode, when I go back to power mode again the watts will now be 49.9 then 49.8 and so on.